Top 3 Grip Positions for Fingerboard Training

When it comes to fingerboard training for climbing, there are many tools and methods at our disposal! If anyone has watched our channels over the years or followed some of our education around finger strength training method, you'll have noticed that we vary our training between single and two arm training and also between different grip positions.

When it comes to the options we have around different grip types/positions, we've found that there are a few fundamental methods you might want to look at including in your training cycles. The big factor thats we always need to address are -

1. Specificity
2. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm
3. Transfer to real rock

The three grip positions:

1. Four finger half crimp
2. Three finger drag
3. Front 3 back 3 half crimp

Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here:

Download the Crimpd App:
App store - @crimpd/id1252333138

[cheeks]

There is no information available on proper grip form until this video. Excellent stuff, thanks!

[MitchellRoman]

The quality of your videos is just wonderful. It's so lucky we all get your wisdom for FREE 🥲

[stianhaugen]

Love the videos! Can you make a video on pinch training for climbing?

[wingedzebraofjustice]

Ever thankful for your content..!

Do you have a donate function somewhere? Id totally support this content

[cicicamino]

Thanks for this description of half crimp. I’ve had questions about the baby finger in that grip and this answered it perfectly.

[christianbrenner]

"When we reach the limit on our moves, we quite often find that the little finger will drop off that hold and we will end up really loading that ringfinger. And we can see injuries occur in this circumstance."
Littlefinger: "I did warn you not to trust me."

[CountEgg]

Top quality content guys, loving the depth

[tombraun]

Thanks for the brilliant videos. It's impressive that put out such high quality training info for free.

Regarding the transition from 4 to 3 finger half-crimp hangs, how much added weight should a climber be able to manage on 4 finger half-crimp hangs before safely moving on to three finger hangs?

[erikbeserra]

My open crimp grip is significantly stronger than my half crimp. Often when I hangboard I have difficulty keeping the half crimp position and drop into the open crimp. How do I prevent my half crimping opening into the open crimp position while hangboarding?

[camilleo]

Hi, love your app and your videos. I have an issue when it comes to big round holds like on the right at 7:45. When I grab them (I tend to grab pretty far with my fingers, and have my wrist at ~a 90degree angle) sometimes my wrist is sort of dislocating. It pops up (no sound, no big pain by still uncomfortable )and it prevents me from squeezing it hard, so I fall to the ground. I’ve never seen anyone with the same issue as me, do you have any idea of what’s happening ? Maybe my wrist is too weak for this kind of position

[williamcrawford]

Best and most essential climbing channel on YouTube. Love you guys, I will definitely invest in personalized training in the near future!!

[phillspearsfish]

as always amazing technical depth, Many thanks!

[ArmenJosh]

This is perfect. Training season is coming up for me soon so this will help me build my fingerboard work as efficiently as possible!

[jamesxyz]

Wish i thought to search this video up before i spent 2 months training an open drag. Thanks for the super informative video 👍

[zhengqu]

Just came back from failing to hold on a hold on my project and confused why because I can perform four finger drag pull ups on 8mm edges easily but can’t lock off on much much bigger holds sometimes. Watched a few videos from you guys and understood it’s because I have always only trained in open grip positions so my forearm is not strong enough for when my body is not directly underneath the hold and I have to rely on forearm to hold on. It also explained why I don’t really get my forearm pumped in a finger board session anymore even though I clearly know that I’m weak.

[mtlbeta]

You guys are thorough. Thanks for the great videos

[Moloch]

Been climbing recreationally for about 5-6 years and just started hangboarding. Wanting to take my climbing to the next level and to get stronger (and to prevent injury) hangboarding seems like a great tool for effective workouts. These videos really helps me out :) Thanks for all the info! Gonna checkout your programs and app as well!

[hyau]

How do I stop my index finger from straightening during hangs???

[luisdominguezmora]

Excellent videos!!! I love the amount of detail in them!!! Thanks for expanding our finger strengthening knowledge!!!!

[rafia]

You guys make really amazing videos. That are very informative 👍🏽