Ender 3 v2 - The Ultimate upgrades and mods to perfect prints

--Version 1--

- CREALITY Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tube + Gray Metal Extruder Kit + 4Pcs Heated Bed Pressure Springs Printer Parts

Alternatively, if want to get some of them separately:
Heatbed Pressure Springs

Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing

CREALITY Aluminum Alloy Block Extruder

- BL Touch

- Dual z axis kit

- Double V-Slot Corner Bracket

- Z motor mount

- Filament holder

- Cable management (Cable chain and mounts)

- Knurling Style Tension Knob Cover

- V-Slot Cover Snap-On

- Nut covers

- Belt Tensioner Covers

--Version 2--

- Direct drive mount

- PEI Sheet

This maybe a better Alternative: Double Sided PEI Spring Steel Sheet With Magnetic Base

Version 3

[Sam-molk]

One of the most authentic and practical video about 3d printer upgrades.

[afrenc]

I appreciate that you make captions for your videos, and that they are well thought out. Great video!

[nikoraasu]

You still do not have klipper? Literally the first big upgrade I did - and still believe that it is the best one by far. It fixed 90% of the problems I had on marlin.

[jothain]

I got Ender 3 V2 for kickers. I was insanely astound about 1 motor Z-axis. I just printed brackets and used one old unused motor and rod/nut parts I had lying around. Then just wired to original motor. Has worked just fine in parallel. Also changed to some 3rd part PEI sheet, stiffer springs and BL-touch. Machine as been on quite low use I have mk3s which is my main go to. But I should still definitely change that ender to direct drive, which is why I'm here.

[PWNHUB]

7:40 change your stepper motor to a pancake style stepper w/ around half the weight of the original. The added mass is causing the issues at higher speeds. Theoretically speaking at higher speeds a direct drive w/ less mass should extrude better, ofc the vibrations from the head slinging around w/ a stepper are to be considered.

[hopelessdecoy]

Thank you for the direct drive bracket!! Never thought to look something like that up and it gives me a cool idea too.

[Sphyxx]

Me who has barely any clue of what most of it all is: I like your funny words magic man.

[shiftyjesusfish]

Dear lord I cannot possibly overstate the value of the auto bed level sensor. I'm sure there are better and worse ones. But simply having one will save you SO MUCH TIME

[trevorbraswell]

Where did your change your Z motor voltage reference after the Dual Z-axis upgrade? How do you determine the new voltage? Also, Great video, well broken out into stages and lots of good info about what helped your prints and what was just cosmetic.

[avejst]

great to hear som feedback from the Afterburner.
Great video as always 👍🙂
thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂

[ivsil]

Thank you for being so generous with your information. very grateful. godspeed and happy new year to you!

[Solice-lxmk]

For the elephant foot issue, I found that simply calibrating your e-steps and taking the average diameter of the filament you're currently using and inputting that into your slicer filament diameter box has completely eliminated the need for elephant foot compensation.

[brandonbrown]

Best upgrade is the User mod. You learn how to calibrate and tune your slicer and square and adjust the machine. About the only upgrades really worth while for quality of life is the extruder and a all metal or bimetal heatbrake. Direct drive is a slow down and not needed, dual Z is not needed, so many things not needed.

[tactikool]

For the afterburner if you run Klipper with the Ender3 you can get better speeds with better printing. I have both an Ender 3 and 5 with Afterburner and they print great at high speeds.

[MikeHammer]

Ten extra upvotes for the lead extruder.

[CROW_BH]

Can I ask for advice on my pla quality how can I contact you? Thanks

[ubiratamuniz]

Howdy!

As you mentioned you are printing ABS, it's only a matter of time before you enclose your printer.

When you do, check your printed printer upgrades. If they are made from PLA, they WILL deform from air temperature when the printer is enclosed. Believe me, I've been there. LOL... had my BL Touch mount (and some other stuff) melt during longer ABS prints.

I did use direct drive for a few months, but believe me, I went back to Bowden later. It's easier to mantain. I use a standard PTFE tube though, I hated the Capricorn because it's a part meant for more precision and does not bode well with cheaper filaments which might not have good quality control. No problem with temperature for me, as I also upgraded to an all metal hot end, and I print Tritan a lot (making parts for my car).

You just got a new subscriber. Best wishes from Brazil!

[vidarsjogren]

nice vid! just watch out so your eccentric nuts on the v-rollers aren't too tight, this can increase wear on the v-rollers and lessen their lifespan.

[stefangitzen]

Can you give more details about the dual Z-axis? Especial how to adjust the voltage of the steppermotor

[costimanea]

Great video, and funny enough i did the same modifications as you did over time (maybe some different manufacturers here and there) and I want to get to step 3 as you did .
There is one more thing i am interested, and maybe you want to share: PLA+ and or ABS profiles for Cura/Prusa.
I ran into a problem after i installed the direct drive & CR touch(both in the same time with FW update), but if i want to print anything from Cura, extruder goes nuts and ejects 400mm plastic in 1 sec damaginf eventualy the nozzle. with standard profile in Prusa i do not have this . I checked if the Filament runout is enabled, and disabled it in Start g-code with the same results.
Thanks in advance