No Shoulder Shadows: Under-Cabinet Lighting

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Synopsis:
Joel breaks down a master electrician’s thought process and mounting of _______

Besides secondary power sources, under-cabinet lighting is probably the most “en vogue” electrical project these days. With minimal power-draw requirements, lots of product options, and plenty of visual appeal, we highly recommend it to customers and EPros alike! In this video we’ll include our favorite LED strip light brand, the unique parts and materials needed, and the best ways to avoid headache…by showing you a few headaches of our own!

Laced within the technical instruction are recommendations and points of professionalism employed daily by Jefferson Electric masters, journeymen, & apprentices.

If the instruction in this video is unclear or skew to what you are searching for, feel free to comment below for additional assistance.

Thank you for watching; we value your feedback and monitor this channel daily.

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Products We’d Recommend:
*EPRO endorses pro-level tools & materials, and receives a small commission for purchases through our links from Amazon & other affiliate programs. We’d be happy to recommend more cost-effective products for DIYers and low-frequency users if you engage with us in the comment section!

National Electrical Code (NEC) referenced in our videos:

Outline:
0:00 - Introduction
0:38 - Tools & Materials
1:56 - Power
4:25 - Installing Self-Adhesive Strip Lights
15:04 - Business Tip: Totes
16:22 - Headache #1: Solder Point or Cut Point?
17:20 - Headache #2: No Light!
17:32 - Troubleshooting Driver-Transformer
20:50 - Replacing Pinched Wire
21:52 - Bonus: Air Switched Garbage Disposal
22:38 - Cliff Was Right…Again.

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Electric Pro Academy is a multimedia team dedicated to training and instructing DIYers and professional electricians for the growth and dignity of the craft nationwide.

Jefferson Electric installs and services residential, commercial, solar, and Tesla systems in Indianapolis, IN.

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I’ve installed hundreds of feet of led strip lights and can tell you that when you install it in the inner lip of the cabinet facing the back splash you get a better lighting, plus you don’t need jumpers for the corners (and no reflection off the granite tops)

dandacosta
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Bro I installed RGB tape light custom in my Moms apartment for her birthday. It took me half the day and when I turned it on nothing worked at all and I was right about to pull my hair out until I found the polarity, and cut lines vs solder lines. I was a easy 20 min fix in the end. But I am so glad to see other people making that same mistake, it makes me realize I am not the only idiot out there. Thanks

portaadonai
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Great tutorial. A couple of things to add: Firstly, the self-adhesive backing can be quite unreliable when gravity is acting directly on the strip, especially if you are sticking the lights to bare wood. I like to add some support for longer runs to stop the strip coming unstuck and sagging. I do this with small nails, but you have to know exactly where to place the nails to avoid damaging the lights. It would be easier to use some sort of wire staple.
Secondly, try paining the underside of the cabinets white. This makes a *huge* difference to the amount and quality of the light. Most of the light is directed straight down, but some of it bounces back up off the work surface and then bounces off the bottom of the cabinets. Painting the bottoms of the cabinets white doesn't really make the light brighter, but it really improves the overall quality and color of the illumination.

thepenultimateninja
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You definitely should put these strips in extrusion channels with diffusers. Really looks DIY when I see LED strips mounted directly on any surface without extrusions and diffusers. First, the extrusions dissipate heat, and they ensure the strips will never start sagging because the adhesive gives up. Second, the diffusers provide even illumination. Butt splices are fine and well, but they are also kinda crappy looking. Heat shrink is relatively cheap and can make sure he install looks completed by someone who cares.

Also, if you work with the proper manufacturer, they can make your strips to length for you and put them in extrusions ahead of time. That way, when you get to the job site, just mount the extrusions where they are specified for, then splice the field wiring in back to your driver. Turn everything on and you’re done.

Last tip. Always put linear lighting on a dimmer. Lighting should be dynamic not simply on or off.

PortlandAuthority
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I’ve been licensed for four years now, did mostly new construction high rise resi, commercial and industrial. Just starting my own company and although resi is not that complex, it is a whole new ball game for me. The imposter syndrome/internal inadequacy narrative is real sometimes lol. I greatly appreciate your humble and knowledgeable approach. Takes a real man to post mistakes!

alexloenhart
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Older fellow sparky here and I love your content. Just a suggestion that works for me. Instead of 18-2 start running 18-3. If something goes wonky with one of the wires, you have a back up.

RonSch
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Great video. Shows his own mistakes and how to repair those issues. Great job.

michaelschonefeld
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I feel like I miss a step. I wish you show us how you fish those 16 wire down the wall to the receptacle because I was wondering if you had any issues with with stud being somewhere in the wall

shshshs
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I was surprised you didn’t place these in a rail with a defuser. 1) being a kitchen, its only a matter of time until there is a boiling kettle of water directly below these strips. 2) not being diffused might be fine 1.5 feet below on the counter surface, but 6 inches below you will visually see the result of undiffused light on put lids, appliances, knife faces, hand and arms, ect. 3) your work is half a day, the home owner lives with this for years to a decade in the future, There is nothing visually appealing about a naked exposed LED strip.

ecoheliguy
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Hi frome Greece I am electrician too we also make the same thing little different but if you want ican aend you photoa with led under the sink and when you open the sheet it opens very interesting to see how things are in USA keep up the good work

panagiotiskousoulentis
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Looks better in track w diffuser. Diodes don't show on countertop and eliminates glare

mannynemer
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They made a dimmer switch that also acts as your LED driver. So no external transformer needed. Switchex Dimmer is what it’s called I believe

joshhowie
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Have you ever used Switchex drivers? They fit in a single gang box and are driver & dimmer.

AdamS-lhug
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Anyone that is looking to do a project like this do some research of your own. The led count and length of your conductors need to be accounted for before sizing the driver. If you have long runs of lights or cabling from the driver a 24v led system will work better for you. If the driver is under sized most will self protect and turn off. If the driver is over sized it won't dim correctly with a dimmer. (When using a driver that allows dimming) There are websites with calculators if you are uncomfortable using Ohm's Law. Also don't run wires between the outlet cover plate and the drywall. It's not very professional way of getting wires to the driver.

jonathonvietor
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We should always install LED tapes within an extrusion. Longer life span, increased visual comfort, less dots on the counter. Recommending direct installation is really "contractor style" and not good for the end users. I wouldn't recommend at all.

jonathanbacon
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Thanks for the video. What would change if you wanted to install RGBW strip?

WinnyDaddyDIY
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Heat shrink might actually be a good idea as many homeowners use counter top appliances that produce steam or moisture, such as, Sous vede, crockpots, steamers, pressure cookers, etc.

richardscarlett
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When I was self-employed, I did that with the totes. I'd label them for the client they were set up for and had cheat sheets for inventory use that listed everything in the box then the tech could check off what was used and for which location. That way I always had the extra rj45 crimps, plenum zip ties, drywall anchors, shims, whatever "little thing" that I might need. Even those little almond and white screws used for outlet covers. We use them for network jack wall covers and occasionally they get dropped.

ugh
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I'd love to see how the undercabinet finishing works with (leaves gaps for) the light strips.

jovetj
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When I did mine I made right angle joints with solder and solid core wire (so that it held it's shape).

_chrisr_