1936 Caterpillar RD-4 Pony Motor Cylinder Head Removal

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Short video showing what we find under the pony motor heads
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Even with the valves closed I’m amazed how good the one cylinder looks. Those valves must have been seating perfectly.

oldamericaniron
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We used Kroil on the farm. It crept into alot of tight joints after days and weeks of sitting breaking things loose with far less effort than we originally used when we started tear down.

challengerhitchman
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I've never had much luck with penetrants but the Kroil actually seemed to work on my 52 Willys

richardcavalloro
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Did you see the cutting edge engineering au video about welding up a hole in a wet type clutch Caterpillar transmission bellhousing?

waynep
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was in your area on the 5th, drove through the storm on my way to Mitchell

seniorelectrician
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Looks like that piston is going to be a good penetrating oil test.

bcbloc
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Man such a shame, you got an example of nearly worst case on one and the other is as good as you could ask for. Hopefully some good parts are able to come out of it.

billtheunjust
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That orange can is what diesel creek swears by!

artmuz
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I have found that penetrating oils work better if you can get some vibration going on the seized threads. I haven't found any one brand that works better than the others. I had some broken studs in two exhaust manifolds that I got out using cheap Dollar General penetrating oil. It took a few days but soaking them down and tapping them with a wrench gradually loosened them to the point that I removed them with a pair of pliers. They came out quite easily once the oil soaked all the way in. No matter how good the product claims to be it's not a quick process most of the time.

danielbutler
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Probably will require either boring and oversized pistons. Could that cylinder be sleeved?

dans_Learning_Curve
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Bad on the left ? What is that referencing. ?

allenkuester
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I've found penetrating oils work best after there's a bit of movement in the threads. Until there's movement, it just doesn't sink in.

dans_Learning_Curve
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Kyle, unless you really want to hold a test on various penetrating oils, just refer your fans to "Test on Penetrating Oils" on Youtube, and any one of your fans that goes there will find no less than two dozen (actually more) such tests which have been performed and videoed for everyone's satisfaction using every known brand of penetrating oil versus all other brands. What most people do not know is that penetrating oil is not a quick process by any means of the title name, (i.e.) Penetrating Oil. Most people overlook the fact that oil must travel through each and every twist of the bolt's thread pattern and that takes an enormously long process since there is frozen rust and metal build-up between and around each thread and the shoulder of the bolt itself, all of which the oil must penetrate, loosen, and dissolve on its way to the bottom thread. It can take days and numerous repeating of the oil treatment to the area before the bolt/screw has been freed enough to turn with force, not freely as some people think it will be. The fastest way that I have found is to thoroughly saturate the bolt's head and the area around the bolt several times, giving the oil time enough to soak in and down, then apply high heat, but not for a long time. Applying high heat for an excessive length of time can and will weaken the metal that the bolt is seized to/with, which will be defeating the whole reason for extracting the frozen bolt intact. If the bolt still does not move, repeat the process as many times as necessary. In my opinion, the heat actually breaks the bolt free, while the penetrating oil lubricates the threads which allows the bolt to turn and thereby keeps the bolt from snapping off.

theshadow
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That was a good short, really. Ain't it funny how when your semi attempts at the dark humor ends up having some humor with you??
Hope you all had a good 4th as well!

jamesthompson
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Has any one ever heard of sweating copper tubing a term used in soldering copper tube well you can sweat oils in to bolts pipe joints and when sweating solder the solder goes to the source of the heat

andrewklahold
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From what I've seen I think 🤔 I should be able to braze/silver sodder the cracked block
"no hill for a stepper."

Fatamus
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A little rough? NAAAHHH! It was ready to run, lol!

calrob
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I have found the pb blaster to work some what. Spray it for a couple days

rickbray
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Happy 4th July Kyle. I think the block is salvageable by all means.

SuperMAZ
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I was wondering if you could stand that up and try putting diesel fuel in the cylinder and setting it a blaze to see if it will free that piston
Happy 4th

evankibbe