Rappelling with a Guide ATC and VT Prusik Backup

Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant and makes our team happy and confident. With that said...

WARNING: Getting off the couch is inherently dangerous! You must assume all the risk prior to embarking on an adventure. Any person using skill/equipment is personally responsible for learning the proper techniques involved, assumes all risks, and accepts full responsibility for all damages or injury, to include but not limited to death. Test and practice with your equipment in a safe manner to determine compatibility and performance characteristics before deploying during an adventure. If you cannot master a system/process/skill/equipment that we have used, or question any part of this video, consider this video for entertainment purposes only!

Used to make this video...

[enjoytheoutdoors]

Finally someone shows a very simple way to rappel with a short amount of devices. Thanks a bunch.

[crabbiboi]

The great thing about the vt is that if you are using it to ascend it will loosen up as puessure is applied to the opposite end when used in conjunction with a small pully. I was an arborist before I started climbing rocks and this was the preferred way to climb up if you are using a doubled rope system, before all the fancy single rope techniques came about.

[FISHDG]

By far the clearest and most concise rappel with backup explanation I've ever seen. Makes the system feel so much more intuitive. Thank you!

[toughscout]

It's very clear to I got the answer to my question from your thanks a

[javierc]

i think that the blocking knot must be under the belay device, on the active rope. If you don't do that your knot could block so high that you can't free it. That will leave you hanging on the rope, and you will only have the option of climb up the rope to release the tension.
En mi opinion el nudo de bloqueo siempre debe hacerse por debajo del dispositivo descensor, sobre la cuerda activa. En caso de no hacerlo el nudo puede bloquearse en la parte superior, de tal manera que sea imposible liberarlo. Esto te dejaría colgando de la cuerda con la única opción de ascender por la misma para liberar la tensión del nudo.

[dmmdmm]

I like your clear speaking explanation of things. You inspire confidence, my man !

[amariahg]

Very helpful! I've been learning more rock climbing and rappelling info for emergencies (I live in the mountains, kind of essential) and this is by far the best set up I've seen for rappelling. Clear and easy to understand in your video, thanks for posting!

[ingvey]

I have tried this setup, using an arborist eye to eye. michoacan friction hitch and my belay device under the hitch. Worked alright.
UNTIL I came to abrupt stop. A situation I would find myself in regularly, cleaning a route or arriving at anchors, The friction hitch completely locked up on my rope. 100% could not continue lowering on it. Maybe my rope was too squishy. Or it was that I tested this with a climbing single rope, but I DO NOT recommend; hitch above rap device. Took my ascender and a bunch of hassle to get out of the situation

[PhweeRage]

If the prussik is above the belay device, then the prussik has to hold your whole weight in a fall. If it's below the device, then it only has to act as a brake hand, and as we all know, that requires significantly less force.

[uelude]

Subscribed: I learn well from this guy; right pace for brain.

[michaelalbro]

Great idea! The VT Prussik that is! I will try this next time.

[yogeshchandra]

Nice video! Btw, what'sa valdutain trusse? Am I spelling it correctly?

[JohnnyYuma]

I’ve been reading about this device/technique. Seems like it uses a lot of rope above the climber and at some anchors it might be hard to fit it all in and still test the rappel while still tethered.

[anthonyrenaud]

Thank you very much for that simple tutorial. I'm a beginner so I'm doing my research. I like the idea of the back up with the Prussik along with the ATC Black Diamond Reverso. I'm just thinking of basic rapelling. Nothing big.

[MrAussieJules]

you can also do this kind of prussik wrap with a looped cordellette. I use this all the time in the alpine, as a jammed prussik is pain to unjam.

[beyondthepale]

Since the advantage is that it is releaseable then you might as well use a french prusik there.

[antben]

Is it more recommended to hook the prusik to another carabiner like you did or on the same carabiner as the ATC? Thanks

[dliu]

Hi, could you help me with the reason why ATC is used? From my amateur research, it seems like the VT can be used for rappelling by itself without any other devices

[austingillem]

Ideally you should probably have the back up under the rappel device to hold the rope in brake position if you go hands free for any reason. The VT prussik is neat, but it isn’t a true prussik—it’s a different friction hitch entirely, and it seems sketchier as it doesn’t hold the rope in brake position...

[danielgagne]

Can this exact same process be used with two sides of the rope going through the ATC (both ends on the ground) rather than just one as shown in the video?