Climb Safe: How to belay with the ATC

The ATC is a dynamic belay device. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? What failures should one be aware of when operating the device? The Safety Research Group of the DAV provides anwers.

[theyclimb]

This is so not safe!! Don't slide or "tunnel" your hand up the rope on top rope belay, that is you letting go of the rope!!! If someone falls while you haven't got control of it, they will drop and you'll probably panic and take your hands away to avoid getting your hands sucked up into the atc.. There's so many reasons why this is terrible and needs to be taken down

[julians.]

Imagine being a renowned climbing association making a video on a proven belay technique that you yourself proposed and got added to the uiaa site and people still bitch without a single clue 😂

[windriver]

I don't mind that some experienced belayers prefer the tunneling method.

But it feels weird to teach is at the 'standard' method to beginners when there are more secure and safer options.

[GoodLuck-rhtb]

People from the U.S. coming here and hating on the technique, despite it being used in a lot of places in europe and this is a video of the official german climbing association. Tunnel method is safe and more efficient and smooth for lead belay.

[ethanrichardson]

Learning how to Belay next week so thanks for some of the tips on the video! :)

[max_mittler]

Hmm, this is the first I’ve ever heard of this technique. I understand it may be tested and approved by whatever organization but I don’t think there is any way to argue that it’s safer than the two handed method? Surely that half second when your hand is not gripping the rope could lead to disaster if timed wrong.

[garymccreath]

If its approved by the relevant German climbing association, then its fine.
There is more than one way of doing things& the German climbers and alpinists have been doing this for quite a while

[commanderoof]

1:41 the FK is this!!

Pull down to atc > hold with bottom hand > top hand to center of rope below atc > bottom hand to very bottom of atc > finally top hand back over the atc

The breaking affect only work is the rope is always held below the atc with a firm grip

What you are showing is how to end someone because your hand will either let go to avoid burning or being crushed into the atc and in both cases the person on the other end of the rope hits the ground

[JoshDoes]

2:03 this is the dangerous part that is done wrong in this video, you are supposed to bring your left hand under your right hand and grabbing the rope AND then proceeding to drag the right hand up after the left hand is securely grabbing the rope. This insures more safety if someone were to fall during this specific period of time.

[alexsurh]

This channel and expert village should collab lmao

[joestevenson]

"The brake hand is in control of the rope at all times"

Demonstrates the exact opposite.

[sharktoof]

Using this hand technique would give you a severe talking too in my climbing gym. Just a split second of your hand not being on the brake side of the rope could lead to disaster.

[MadDogTM]

Lol and im sitting here thinking one end goes through 1 hole and out the other hole. Not the same hole 😅

[cosmicreciever]

Imagine thinking you know more about belaying than the DAV lmao

[msm]

I bet all the negative comments are from people that have never climbed outside of a gym

[backlogbrood]

Sounds like this video needs to be redone or taken down. The video appears to be a beginners type of tutorial yet the consensus from experienced climbers seems to be that this is an inappropriately advanced technique to start on for beginners.

Maybe take this video down before it hurts someone.

[alexiroccos]

Where does the manufacturer state that ‘right hand people use right side?’

[PhweeRage]

This is so dangerous. Maybe it's accepted in Germany but in the UK, climbing centres won't allow you to drop to these standards and insist with hand over hand for correct safety.

[adamgelbart]

Very unsafe. This could actually get someone killed.

[alexanderSydneyOz]

As usual, an army of know-alls who confuse 'what I am used to' with 'the only way that works'.
Personally, I am going to run with The Safety Research Group of the DAV, over a bunch of rude kok heads.