Advanced Rappel Techniques

This video was reviewed by 2 or more IFMGA/AMGA Certified Guides and/or SIET Instructors and produced by industry professionals. However, this video may contain misinformation, may lack important details, may assume a certain knowledge base by the viewer, and is not intended for novices. SIET and it's employees and affiliates, recommend professional training for anyone taking part in mountaineering/climbing/skiing activities and attempting to implement skills demonstrated in these videos. Videos produced by SIET should not be used as a substitute for professional instruction!

[Kyle-gqtk]

I really appreciate you calling out the leg loop third hand. I see so many people use that method and always thought it was a safe mehtod - now i see why it's not.

[benjatronic]

this is a great video, and please don't take this the wrong way, but i feel like the title should be changed these should not be considered advanced techniques, this should be basic stuff taught to everyone!

[philbox]

Have been teaching these techniques for quite a while. Have also introduced the concept that one must test before one commits at any transition. Once tested do not change anything otherwise test the system again. I count standing up to reach up to unclip your safety as a change to the system. Look over your system and test again before fully weighting your system and then good to go.

[kierondesmond]

Best video I've seen on rappeling. I think it's worth adding that existing rope/sling anchors should not be trusted. Replace them or at least check them thoroughly and back them up. Of course, metal/all anchors should be carefully checked and tested.

[Mike_In_Idaho]

Fantastic video, thank you for the excellent instruction and the life saving knowledge. I've been gym climbing for a year and getting ready to do outside for the spring and summer. I plan to go with a guide my first few times and then with experienced friends. The more you know ...

Thanks for keeping us safe!

[LA_Viking]

Good info that everyone knows (or should know) but that routinely gets forgotten about. Great vid.

[jodelboy]

Great video, I like the way you are teaching the testing the system (first the friction hitch, then the rappel device, then both together).

One mayor plus (on top of the obvious safety benefits) of using a friction hitch as a backup:
If you have 2x 50m ropes dangling from the anchor in which you have to build your rappel-system into, it helps massively if you can first put the frictionhitch onto the rope, then clip that to the harness. With that you can pull yourself out some rope to work with and put that into the rappel device without any weight yanking it down. Also minimizes the chance of you dropping your belaydevice.

[montheraltiti]

For the fireman belay method it's worth mentioning that: sometimes pulling tension is not enough, because it depends on the length of the rappel ... if it was really long rappel let's say 70m + the belayer at the bottom has to stand away from the crag and in some cases if a fall happen the belayer may need to run (or move) to the back from the crag while applying tension on the rope and in order for the belay system to work ... and of course any method you want to use depends on the nature of the place you are in! Learned that the hard way :)
All in all great video .. thanks for sharing the knowledge

[ArinaThomsen]

Thank you for the video. I took a course for lead climbing in my gym and my instructor showed me the old method of self-rappelling with the third hand round the leg loop. I will need to do some adjustments.

[the.mr.beacher]

Far and away the best youtube instructional video format I've ever seen ❤️

[MtbStoat]

I did one here at Rumney yesterday, I was actually supervising a buddy doing his first rappel, I led the pitch & anchored in to the two belay bolts with a Dyneema quad anchor using my rope up to a screw gate on the quad anchor and back to my belay device with a clove hitch. But! Later when setting him up to go down first and untying the rope (to go thru cow horns) I untied my figure 8 without adding an extra anchor so I was actually not secured to the stance. Learning point is never untie your rope until you double check you are independently anchored by say an anchor draw.

[eamonnd]

Excellent video, I was lucky enough to have been taught most of these techniques during my training, the only part that was new to me is the saddle bag, which looks like and excellent way to control the excess rope

[johngo]

Outstanding video. SIET is really putting out some quality work. Your alpine anchor video is also excellent.

[tonyjewell]

Another great video Josh! I would like to make a plug for John Long's "BARK" acronym: Buckle/harness, Anchor, Rappel set-up and Knots (this usually refers to the knot connecting two ropes, but it can also refer to the stopper knots). It may sound silly, but I use this almost every time I rappel for myself and for checking my partners; especially if I'm tired or in less than ideal conditions when one might be tempted to rush things. I'm also diligent about squeeze checking my locking 'biners. BTW if you have a pack, you can stack the rope in that instead of making and feeding out butterfly coils. A stopper knot is especially important if you do this!!!

[jima]

That's a cute trick, putting the repel device on a short tether to keep it away from the third hand. I've been attaching my third hand to my leg loop to keep it out of the mechanism. I like your method better. Thanks for posting.

[Clambelly]

Awesome. Excellent video. Clear, concise instruction. Great camera work. Easy to understand.

[albrigo]

Nice tutorial, thank you for your tips & tricks. I also sometimes use the saddle bag method for rappelling down, but I find that tightly wrapping the sling around the coil rope as shown in the video makes it difficult to rappel down in a smooth way. Instead, I use a loose sling, which allows to quickly rappel down, and anyway the coil rope remains in place and does not slip out due to weight on both sides.

[ryannugent]

Wow.. there are many videos supporting the use of attaching the auto block or equivalent to your leg loop and this video highlights exactly why it shouldn't be done. Thanks.

[climbingwithoutpassion]

Really excellent teaching! Articulate, clear, organized. Very useful. Thank you!

[ReadySetGoPictures]

Great video. Please make more of them! Simple, well explained, and will help many people!