Why Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors FAIL!

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In this video I bring you along to share with you the reason that I see crimp and seal butt connectors fail, especially here in the salt belt. As many of you know I really like using these connectors and I think and have found over time they do work really well. HOWEVER, if you crimp them wrong, they will 100% fail. Pay attention to the portion of your crimping tool that you are using, and you won't have an issue.
-Enjoy!

Thank you so much for the support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.

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South Main Auto Repair
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Avoca, NY 14809

Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
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I worked avionics for over 45 years before retiring. The avionics grade method was to use uninsulated butt end crimps with a separate piece of heat shrink such as the TE Connectivity D-436-37 Blue Environmental Butt Splice heat shrink. Using uninsulated crimps has two advantages. Firstly, it allows you to see the condition of the mechanical crimp prior to heat shrinking. Also, it eliminates the risk of damage to the heat shrink when crimping. It's a better method all around.

LouinVB
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Everything is junk if you don't use it correctly. Always appreciate your common sense approach.

JenkinsLocks
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The ratcheting crimp tool is 100% worth the investment, easy on the hands and you get the correct amount of squeeze every time.

scubasteve
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The way we were taught at Ford training is the way you described in the video. We would use the bare barrel connectors and use the ratcheting crimpers from OTC. Then we would slide the heat shrink over the splice. The trainers at Ford said that this is the best way to go and if you ever get any pigtails from Ford, they send it with the barrels and heat shrink.

comporangegt
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Every car audio "installer" needs to watch this.

nickvogel
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This is a good how-to. As an older self taught hot rodder, my test was, "pull on it" if it did not come apart it was good to go. Thanks again.

upptowne
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Ive been using the shrinkable but connections for years and i agree its all about the crimp. Ive seen many fail due to piercing the insulation during the crimp. On most current situations i find the red are too big. Pico makes a smaller clear one but its quite delicate. Ive switched to seamless uninsulated but sleeves and heat shrink for more critical circuits. They are also less bulky. Good video!

PhillipBailey
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As a salt water marine mechanic since 1979 I agree 👍💯

I put anticorrosion compound on copper in crimps before crimp and shrink
Put liquid electric tape over it

Best is to solder and shrink wrap critical connection like bilge pump wires etc .

Also in crimp place metal seam in correct position in tool so connector metal folds in to itself during crimp .
Usually seam goes away from point on tool

MitzvosGolem
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And if you wanna make your life even easier, put the connector in your pliers FIRST, grip lightly, insert wire and squeeze. It's a lot less fumbling around.

ghodgeco
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Here's my 2C, We used Butt connectors like that for years in aircraft harness's, we didn't crimp at all! But you were required to strip each end and tin the lead on both ends then clean off any flux residue, line up both ends inside the splice so the wires are on top of each other, then shrink with a heat gun that had an adapter on the nozzle, heat the piece till the solder flow's and the ends are sealed. This was an inspected piece conforming to the Weapon Spec, which I don't remember the number now, haven't done those in many moons. That is how, in manufacturing a harness we HAD to do it. Never had a failure that I am aware of! You do you, it works great.

sfbfriend
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I really like the bare metal barrel crimps with marine grade heat shrink. They seem to work better for me. Thanks for the video because it's always nice to know how to do something correctly the first time!

ronaldclark
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I recently put a rearview camera, four new speakers and central locking in my car.
If I didn't have a butt-load of butt connectors and crimper, I'd still be soldering wires.
And that stripping tool is the absolute dog's bollocks. I could not live without it. I will never strip wires with a knife, my teeth or side cutters ever again.

jochenstacker
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Thanks for crimp class and allowing me to bask in the glow of the internet on fire this morning. 😊 Going to be 96 here today....not blaming you though. 😊

LouJustlou
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Using the proper tooling is the key to making proper crimped connections. I work in the electronics field, and have accumulated an entire toolbox drawer full of nothing but various crimping and pin extraction tools for all the different types of connectors I work with.

bobweiss
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Experience plays a factor in all of this as well. I used to do commercial electrical work, and you can physically gauge how hard you need to crimp something in order to not destroy the connection. However, youtube masters don't like talking about real-world experience. Thanks Eric, will definitely be buying some to add to my toolbox. Which color do you use the most for vehicles?

donniev
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Thanks for the information, never too old to learn something new. First time since using crimpers that I knew there was a right tool for the job, have always been using the crimpers that left the dimples. Thanks again.

harryworkshop
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I frequent flea markets and garage sales . Many moons ago I found Thomas and Betts crimpers and wire strippers made in Elizabeth New Jersey, good ol ‘murica made stuff . From the first time that I put them in my hands, I knew right away that they were excellent quality tools.(we all know a good quality well made hand tool by the feel of it), years later and hundreds if not thousands of crimps later I haven’t looked back. Thomas and Betts combined with a pair of older Ideal stripmasters are basically all that I use now and never had a failure,

MarcS-mpje
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Belt and suspenders guy here. I always use a piece of heat shrink over these sealed butt connectors, just for peace of mind. Some wiring repairs are waaaay down deep in the nooks, crannies, and dark abyss of of crossmembers/brackets, etc where access with various crimpers is a struggle to get it positioned correctly. *nods towards that Freightliner M2 with the Cummins*

sarge
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I really don't have a favorite or preferred method for making connections. It really depends on several factors. Where are you making the connection? Is it easy to access with plenty of room or is it a PITA where you have very little room? What is the environment, like will it be soaking in salt water constantly? Regardless of the method, crimp and seal, non-insulated or solder with shrink wrap, make sure you perform your chosen connection properly. Be proficient in all methods of making connections and you will always be able to make a good connection, which is the end goal in my humble opinion. You demonstrated how to make a flawless crimp and seal connection. Thank you for another very informative video. No matter how long I've been spinning wrenches I never stop reviewing basic repairs because somebody always has a better way to do it.

JohnDoesGarage
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It shows that you care, and your quality repairs are even in the little details.

jeffbeard