CORRECT CRIMPERS - Wiring 201 Butt Connectors How To [NO SOLDER]

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While we definitely recommend soldering wires whenever it makes sense, there are times that a simple crimp-style butt connector is the right call. We are not a fan of insulated butt connectors because they have a more likely chance to fail. Use a non-insulated butt connector and good heat shrink to ensure the connection is sealed.

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I have made hundreds of splices on terminals and butt splices over the years in critical applications. When I first started I was using a cheap pair of the hardware store crimpers, and then I kept upgrading the crimping tools I used. But I never had problems with my splices coming off, and if there was a problem I would have heard about it. I ended up with a pair of good ratcheting crimpers but I actually preferred my Klein 9 in manual crimpers

charleswilson
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I'm a big proponent of soldering but in certain applications like automotive where there can be vibration or movement of the wire near the connector, soldering actually creates a rigid point in the wire that can break. Whereas a crimped connection will still allow the strands of wire to flex as intended.

eosjoe
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Thanks for vid and the tips, I thought for sure that one pair would get the job done. Good reminder to not assume and to test and make sure that the connections are good!

uther
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NASA, the FAA and marine regulations require crimping over soldering.... This guy is a genius!

mikehunter
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I always use the Molex Perma-Seal connectors from waytek. They have the adhesive and thicker Wall thickness. You need a special crimp tool but it's fast to install and sealed. I work on upfitting police and other public safety vehicles and they need to work all the time. Good video. Thanks for steering people in the right direction.

johnpopolo
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If you crimp correctly the crimp will actually bond the connector and the wire into almost one piece. Also when you crimp, you typically don’t want to crimp close to the edge of the connector so you have some mechanical strain relief provided by the connector and further strain relief from a good dual wall heat shrink. A good crimp connection will outlast solder connection in automotive or heavy duty equipment applications.

The big issue with crimping, I find, isn’t crimping itself it’s when people use insulated connectors and then attempt to create a good mechanical bond between the crimp and the fibers of the wire. You always should crimp an uninsulated connector, verify joint, then use a heat shrink or other method of insulation and strain relief.

aaronmoore
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I use the non insulated crimper on insulated connectors its not like they were water tight anyway but i prefer the non insulated with marine heat shrink

james
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5950A OTC angle crimpers are handy . The ratchet style crimpers have adjustable jaw pressure . The sprocket with the stop screw is the adjuster . After stripping the insulation off the wire coat with conductive grease . After crimping, coat with silicone paste and then apply heat shrink tubing 3” long . Good Information Video !

vicpetrishak
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I recently discovered open barrel butt connectors. I really like them.

guyconnell
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Love your channel, great video. However, my experience non-insulated butt connectors with the ratchet and crimper from wirefly thousands of connections flawless that’s just been my experience with 4-1 adhesive shrink tubing.

youcanthide
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for the insulated vinyl connector you need crimper pliers like you've used later in the video the sonic one. with such pliers vinyl connectors are great

Holms
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Nice vid. I may be wrong but I suppose you need to adjust that gear looking screw on the ratchet style crimper to crimp more firmly. Mine's come with wrong adjustment and it was crimping even more loosely. I adjusted the screw and now it crimps perfectly. Good luck!

olegserov
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LOBSTER AK15A - oem Toyota provided tool. most amazing set of ratcheting style crimper for NON insulated crimps.
Made in Japan. I have never ever had one fail on me.

wyldeaxemann
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That crimp tool is cheap if you use nice butt connectors it actually works well and crimps good

spilledcoffee-gtqj
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Thanks for the video. That’s why I use the noninsulated crimper on those insulated but connectors

TheRedMan
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what I have done about 18awg wire strip a little. bit longer and fold it back on it self that works great

anthonymarino
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Used to solder everything, now I've switched to the high end "double crimp" Nylon insulated terminals. I use the non insulated die to crimp them. If they need to be weather proof they get 3:1 adhesive lines heatshrink.
The Vinyl ones ( as shown here) are my least favourite, they very rarely crimp properly and or the vinyl falls off.
Non critical moisture exposed connections I'll use the adhesive heatshrink style single crimp. You also can't crimp it and forget to put the heatshrink on, because everyone has done that at least a few times. Best advice though, always give your crimps a tug test, no matter what you use.

jkphwce
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I've had good luck with the Klein forged pliers style crimpers using the small uninsulated butt splices. I use the uninsulated slot even on insulated terminals to ensure I get a good crimp.

jake-mvoi
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You can literally bet your LIFE on proper crimp splices and terminations (S/T) if you use PROPER TOOLING and fill the barrel of the S/T's with wire strands as recommended by the S/T manufacturer. Crimping in automotive REPAIR has a BAD reputation due to idiots with idiotic tooling and junk S/T's. Put together a kit with respectable tooling and S/T's from manufacturers like AMP, MOLEX and 3M, follow their crimping guides for a specific product line, and BEHOLD the magic that is a crimped joint suitable for aerospace, aviation, military, marine, motorsports & industry... Oh yeah, and AUTO REPAIR 😆. It will cost a lot more than the Amazon crap, but the results are well worth it.

hightttech
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Thanks for the vid! I have the same problem too with those small connectors

BobSmith-dmvp