Classic Military Watch Inspired Perfection & The Best Microbrand Automatic Diver - NTH Näcken Review

Today I review a watch I bought last year on a whim. After borrowing one from my good friend and industry legend John Kiel, I was instantly hooked. As I am sure a lot of my viewers know, I have owned countless Tudor, Omega and Rolex dive watches over the years, so when I was introduced to the NTH Näcken line, I instantly understood this was no ordinary homage, but a tribute to an entire era of classic military dive watches.

With a big crown of a 1954 Rolex Submariner, the dial of a Marine Nationale Tudor Submariner 9411 or 9014, and the case like the previously reviewed 60s Omega Seamaster 300 166.0324, it has been tastefully brought bang up to date with modern materials and a quality that secures its dominance as one of, if not the best micro brand, military inspired, automatic 300m dive watches. In addition, its modest price of just over $600 can’t be beat.

So, today I dive in (forgive the pun!) and take a look with a full review, including what I like and don't about this super fun watch that set the record on its release of being the thinest 300m microbrand diver.

For an introduction to John Kiel watch my previous video here:

I purchased my NTH here:

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[JeremyJakeWest]

I've had my Nacken Modern Blue for 7-8 months and absolutely love it. Great quality and wears very well in my rotation. Sure, it's not of a Tudor Black Bay quality, my recent Black Bay Black in-house is 'outstanding' in the quality and feel, but for $500 (pre-order price) vs. $3k+ you're getting a stylish and good looking diver that wears well whether with jeans and tee, or slacks and shirt. Great review TGV!

[NTHWatches]

For whatever it's worth, the bracelet does taper, from 20mm at the lugs to 18mm at the clasp. It's not straight, but of course it doesn't have the more dramatic 20mm-16mm taper some bracelets have, which is more noticeable.

In our view, our steel bezel inserts are a better material choice than ceramic or sapphire, which are more scratch-resistant, but also more brittle, and can be cracked or shattered, unlike steel. If a steel bezel is damaged, it's much easier to replace than a ceramic or sapphire insert, which may require an entirely new bezel assembly, not just the insert. Our bezels are PVD/DLC coated with the highest thickness coverage, for maximum long-term durability. They hold up very well to all sorts of abuse.

We've used expansion clasps on other models, but they're thick - 7mm, and expensive, whereas the focus for the NTH Subs was on thinness, as well as affordability.

[NTHWatches]

I am honored and humbled beyond words. Thank you, TGV.

Chris "doc" Vail
NTH

[SgtHooch]

Just picked up a pre-owned Nacken No Date. It's so much nicer than I thought. I only learned about it last this month from watching Urban Gentry YT reviews. I am so glad I found one! Thanks for doing this video.

[UnderSurveillanceAP]

I really appreciate that The Urban Gentry reviews fine watches at varying price points that are accessible to a broad audience who enjoy quality even if they cannot afford exclusivity.

[VictorLopez-dewy]

I've got two NTHs because of your review. I came back to the video with a smile on my face. Thank You do much, I love your channel. :)

[tenorbanjoguy]

Excellent review as always! Wonderful watch, wish I could own them all but 6 is the limit! I did purchase my first "microbrand" watch a few months ago...the Ginault Ocean Rover (killer homage!) It is a really fun market segment and the NTH is an excellent example of the fun that the microbrands bring to the table! Bravo!

[kindredwinecoff]

Every product Chris Vail makes is not only of high technical quality but is exceptionally well thought-out in terms of design *and* performance. It's amazing the value you get with his pieces. At the time this watch was made I believe it was -- and maybe still is? -- the thinnest 300m-rated dive watch on the market. At any price level. That's typical for him: find a way to contribute to the market of enthusiasts, and then over-deliver.

[adibee]

Great review TGV! I appreciate the construction of this model and the concept of one watch encompassing a whole time period! I own a Tudor Black Bay, 79220B. The snowflake hands were one of the reasons I fell in love with my Tudor! Surprisingly, critics may knock the snowflake hands on the NTH, I find it flattering that the Tudor hands were selected to be used on this watch. I do agree, Chris should have done some engraving on the case back, it would look more complete!

[DRFunny-nhmg]

Homage watches is great ! i really think that honouring different models that really marked the timeline with greatness, is a superb idea. i will never look down on anyone with a homage.

[edteachr]

I keep coming back to this excellent review and historical overview as I adore this NTH. I had to buy a Näcken (mine with a date discreetly at 6) when this video origally came out. TGV is a real "influencer" as I have bought 6 watches based soley on his recommendations and I have never been disappointed.

[hypnovike]

I don't have the specific model you have, but I do have their Scorpène and I adore it! Doc makes one hell of a product and he is always very transparent!

[VersedNJ]

Recently got the NTH Nacken in Modern Blue, no date (with this watch you really don't want one" And only complaint I have is getting the bracelet back on, it was easy to size, they do include. Keeps great time. Only issue is getting the bracelet re attached, sizing was easy. NTH tosses in a nice set of U shappded 22mm spring bars that went in easy, sp hsae it on a good matching NATO till I get get to the watch/jewelry store, cough up the $15-20 and have them toss it on, good for sizing for a year, didn't want to scratch the watch or bracelet on by

[paulodr]

Shoutout from the Philippines! I noticed your nice little map there of Bataan, the last US stronghold in the island of Luzon before the Japanese overrun it in 1942. Don't get me wrong, I love Japan and the Japanese people (and Japanese watches. Haha). Cheers, TGV!

[smr]

Another great video and homage to TUDOR Submariner dive watches. Nothing wrong with it. Quality looks excellent and really if you can't afford an original Tudor or Submariner, why not get this one? It's a no brainer. I'd love one for sure. Thanks for the review TGV. Another brand I had never heard of. Awesome.

[nimblejack]

"but guys, I buy watches for enjoyment; I don't buy watches for any other reason." So the question of whether a watch is a good watch or not rests soley on whether you enjoy the watch. Let's stop being snobs and start sharing enjoyment. Well said TGV.

[jasonplocek-gunnysgt-fuxu]

As always a great review. Maybe just me but for the current asking price why not just add another $300 and get a Squale 50 Atmos. In my humble opinion you are getting a much better movement, amazing Squale case and the heritage that comes with owning a Squale. Keep up the good work TGV and thanks for what you do.

[KiiMoO]

Hi TGV! I started watching your channel a couple of months ago and you really changed my life in terms of enjoying the finer things in life. I do like listening to classical music once in a while and of course stepped up my watch game immensely.

I went from fashion watches (DW, Boss, Armani) to a Seiko 5 on a Bond Nato and just recently a blue Omega Seamaster 300m with the ceramic bezel and Im absolutely chuffed to bits, Im over the moon! ;-)
Next up is a classy Rolex but Im unsure which one to go for. Im thinking Datejust (Blue or Gold) or Oyster Perpetual.

Thank you very very much for your amazing content, you have a really inspiring personality.

Best Regards from Austria!
Kimo

[KDL]

I love the color and I love the Tudor sub/diver look, so this is all good in my book. Looks like a great buy for the price. Thanks for bringing more brands to the fore, TGV.

[silajeep]

Love your intros TGV, quality production values in this video into. And a great watch, and I'm planning to buy the date version of this watch asap!