The Way to the Matterhorn

It has been a long dream of Julia Lyubova as a mountaineer to climb the Matterhorn. The world famous mountain that sits at the top of Zermatt in Switzerland has attracted thousands of climbers over the years. At 4478m it is considered to be one of the most difficult climbs in the Alps. In this film Julia Lyubova and local Zermatt guide Andreas Steindl go on an epic journey to climb to the summit of the Matterhorn. It is no easy task but they make it in 3.5 hours and enjoy the views from a very windy summit. But this is only half of the story, the journey back down is even harder...

A film by Julia Lyubova. Find her on Instagram: @juliainthealps

Entered for the BMC TV Women In Adventure film competition 2021, sponsored by Montane #WAF21

All profits from insurance policies go straight back to the BMC to continue our great work on behalf of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers!

[teamBMCTV]

All profits from insurance policies go straight back to the BMC to continue our great work on behalf of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers.

[salsanchez]

I climbed the Matterhorn solo in 1965. From Hotel Mont Cervin I hiked to the Hörnli Hut and stayed the night. Early the next morning I set off and free climbed this route without much drama. The descent was quite different. Several times I went off route, unfortunately wandering to sections where I had to re-trace my steps. After awhile I was just concentrating on making sure that I was on route and testing each handhold and foothold because a lot of the mountain is incredibly loose. Rock fall, as mentioned by Julia,
is one of the foremost dangers. By about 1:00 pm I was back at the hut; I collected my gear and then hiked back down to the hotel for a hot bath and a splendid dinner. I've climbed the Matterhorn a few times since then along with the highest peak in each Western European country and all of the fourteeners in Colorado,
but this climb in 1965 stands out as truly memorable. Not a bad accomplishment for a 15-year old from the Junior Colorado Mountain Club.

[linab.]

Many times climbers only film and talk about the ascent and do not show how difficult and dangerous the descent is. Great video, many thanks and congrats.

[rsimko]

I am glad they included the way down, arguably the most challenging part of the whole climb. I wish somebody filmed the summit with 35-50mm lens to get a real perspective of the drop on both sides. Action cam makes is uncomfortably narrow :)

[bikescience]

"La la la, this is perfectly fine". I'll have to remember that song next time I need it.

[kenpayne]

I climbed the Matterhorn in 1990. A wonderful climb. My German guided had made 80 summits. Thank you so much for the memories. So many came rushing back! Thank you again.

[peteskyrunner]

Some of those rocks with big cracks between them on the way down look like they could break apart and fall at any moment! That's what would scare me the most.

[anthonyholroyd]

Climbed the neighbouring (and considerably easier) Breithorn on Saturday - the Matterhorn is utterly captivating and looking across at it, I promised myself that with a few more years of Alpine experience I'll be back for it some day.

[raphaelwellig]

Hello
Thank you for the wonderful film about my favorite mountain.
Best regards
Raphael Wellig

[cmcer]

Great job Julia, that was one heck of an accomplishment even with a guide. Obviously not for the faint of heart either, but you hung in there and over-came your fears. I envisioned myself once upon a time climbing K2 and beyond, but I got older and wiser and thought it's pretty exciting you do it instead.

[Charles-xeqh]

Bravo! 7 hours round trip seems very quick!

[jocksterDJ]

I hate heights. But love climbing videos. Go figure. Great video. My heart was racing at several points. Well done!

[mooskamoo]

Great video, makes you think just how insane the early climbers were who went up it without the fixed ropes, incredible!

[sbrao]

Excellent, way down is where lot of climbers have disappeared. Thx for showing it

[guregorihattofirudo]

Mental fatigue characterized by thoughts of expected comfort has always plagued my descents. One wants the descent to just be over and that once led me to a broken leg high up a volcano in winter. There must be some data behind the belief descending is more dangerous, I certainly believe this to be true. Great job and from the look of it the guide was a wise choice

[jonathanrehbock]

The Matterhorn made such an impression on me when I first saw it in person as a young teenager, it was almost magical. It brings back those memories of imagining of what it must be like to climb. Thanks for sharing your experience

[trepicks]

Excellent photography and commentary. I enjoyed the climb with you but definitely won’t be attempting the climb myself. Congratulations!

[mxxx]

Fantastic film, many congratulations - brought back a lot of memories from my climb in 2010, also with Andreas.

[papajon]

Great job and congratulations! That was making my palms sweat 😥 just watching

[Jesus-MyLife]

What a guide you had! He is an outstanding alpinist!