How to Climb Matterhorn: the Most Iconic Mountain in Europe

A perfect pyramid straddling the Swiss border, Matterhorn might just be the most recognizable peak in the world. Everyone’s seen the snow caps and striking faces — but do you know what it takes to reach the top?

From fitness and skill requirements to gear and logistics — learn what it takes to scale the most iconic summit in Europe

This Adventure Talk covers:
0:00 A bit about the host, Nino Guagliano
04:53 Topographic map of the Matterhorn
08:02 Zermatt. General facts
12:02 History of the mountain and first ascent
13:40 Route specifics
38:37 Training
41:27 Logistics
44:38 Upcoming trips with Nino

[manuelfresco]

By far the best explanation I've ever seen on YT, great job. And yes, I'm a local, thumbs up. With the lost of the permafrost these kind of mountains with steep exposed ridges will get more and more dangerous. Stay safe...

[gwbaker]

Excellent presentation. Thank you! Well done. Very helpful. I am considering Matterhorn, Eiger, Blanc next summer.

[CharlesMuskett-kspo]

Really good overview and explanation Nino - thank you. I'm coming at this from an ascent via the Hornli last September with my son who is also an IFMGA guide. It was a true whistlestop trip from the UK as we had significant time pressure due to a new family arrival. Frankly, I'm enjoying it retrospectively and kind of understanding things more now as I summitted on the 3rd day after arriving in Saas Grund having driven non-stop from Wales! We did an acclimatisation route up the Lagginhorn then next day walked up to the Hornli. A really spectacular experience but without full acclimatisation pretty gruelling (I'm closer to 70 than 60 years old). Important pointers for anyone attempting the route are pretty obvious: get some good aerobic training in and don't neglect some strength work. There is a good bit of pulling on fixed ropes higher up. Be well acclimatised (I wasn't and it felt that way!). The climbing isn't that technical at all and in fact is mostly quite straightforward scrambling. For anyone unguided the route finding, especially in descent, can be very tricky. I chatted afterwards with two young guys from Colorado who took over 10 hours in descent alone but was full of admiration for their efforts - chapeau! I thought the exposure would be worrying in places but frankly was feeling too knackered to really notice it! Also I had 100% faith in my boy to keep me safe - that's the other part of things, some people do worry excessively before the event and end up baling. Understandable but a shame to miss out on an amazing summit. Thanks once again for a great presentation.

[AI-fhzf]

Actually brilliant. Very informative, along with practical tips too. Well done 👏

[drc]

What a wonderful video. So detailed and informative. Thank you!

[wmbiisurgeon]

Great presentation and emphasis on being physically fit.

[wesreeder]

Excellent work! The Matterhorn is a bucket list peak for me - probably summertime 2024. Definitely will be reaching out to your team!

[velislavstoev]

Thank you so much for this video. It is very useful.

[ASPAseethrough]

Absolutely love your sensitivity aspect when it comes to climbing and summiting mountains. My last experience has been nothing short of fully spiritual! Yes there’s a physical aspect of it but it’s the physical and pushed my spiritual awakening, awareness of oneself.

Would be lovely to connect!

[ericandi]

I’m in Zermatt right now on a snowboarding trip with my family. I’ve been to dozens of great ski resorts in Utah, California, and Canada, but I’ve never experienced anything like Zermatt. The lift infrastructure is spectacular. The skiable terrain is endless. The village is a special place. I highly recommend Zermatt.

[Sm]

Where’s the route commentary for the descent?

[emilnik]

Hey, there. We are planning a Matterhorn attempt this summer (3-4 august). At what time was the peak soft closed last year because of lack of snow?

[Sailaja_Korukonda]

Very useful video, thanks for sharing

[hankmishima]

Thanks for sharing. If a couple of people would like to go together, is that possible?

[josephdonalde]

zermatt i visited in 68 en route to istanbul israel iran nepal.

[GuideEver]

When you are doing the edgy type of climbing where you are exposed, are you hooked up to the chain in case you slip or is it free solo type of thing? Honestly, a thing I am the most concerned about.