Wish I Had Known This When Climbing Pockets

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As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

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Method 1 caused me bad strain a month ago 😂. Great video

jonnyred
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Gotta make sure you're not grabbing pockets in a dynamic fashion, no matter which method you're using! The only time I've ever injured myself has been desperate grabs at pockets

scottnon
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Everytime i hurt myself its on pockets... Dont try pockets at your limit without pocket training - be smarter than me

MrMosherMosher
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I just completed my first route with finger pockets after probably 8 attempts (V3; still working my first V4) and these comments are making me realize how lucky I was to not get injured. I slipped off the top hold and caught myself on a crimp and was utterly shocked that I still completed it, but now I’m just happy my right hand held up to the pressure, since I’ve not trained pockets at all. Thanks for the beta.

Tigercup
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Method 3 can be to use the index and middle finger. I found this to be more trusting than using the middle and ring finger.

sefaa
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All this tells me as a routesetter is that I need to put more monos on V2s to train the beginners 😤 (I love pockets)

atherismagic
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I had a flexor tendon injury doing method 1. Left hand was in a pocket and my left foot popped causing most of my weight to go on my ring and middle fingers. Felt something like a tear going all the way from the middle of my palm to my elbow. Thankfully, it only took about 5 weeks to fully recover but I'm much more weary of pockets and 3 finger drags now

arlithrien
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Any opinion on using the index and middle finger? It’s what felt natural to me from the start

rollopls
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Been there, done that. Injured myself precisely from method 1 last year. Took quite a while to get back. I'm way more careful with that grip now (just like I am with full crimping)

frelli
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Am i the only one who uses the pointer finger and middle finger for pockets✌️

ville-valtteri
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Really wish the algorithm had recommended this video to me sooner, before I felt a pop in my palm from pulling on a pocket. Hoping it's not a pulley rupture

andreaservik
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Having obliterated some things in my hand and taking years off of climbing to recover, might i recommend that if you can't do it safely, you should accept that you can't do it (so get stronger).

ibandribew
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Popped something in the base of my wrist doing this grip. Had me out of commission for a while. Had no finger strength for weeks. As I loaded the grip, I felt a pop and release from my two fingers.

Tmackbb
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Hurt myself with method 1 3 month ago. I didnt fully recovered yet... Nice short!

xandutheil
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Messed my hand up using method 1 and since then avoided pockets at all

juliangrube
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Had a nice pop thanks to method 1 a few months ago, hand/wrist still isn't the same. Stick with method 2 unless you've been training on pockets

bronzethunderbeard
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This type of content, is just gold, tks a lot 🙏

pedrom.
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As many comments already testified, I hurt myself climbing in a steep pocket boulder. Tried to hold on with both hands in pockets when I was at my limit, fell and I felt a huge sting in my right middle finger and the middle of my palm. Still recovering from it and that was 3 months ago, so I'm way more careful now and I still dont climb pockets cause it still hurts when I put too much weight on it

So yeah, thanks for the short, will try method 2 for slowly getting back into it!

scottjolteon
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Thoughts on super deep pockets that put ur hand in this position? 🤟🏼

alextedrow
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Is it likely to get injured on "easy pockets" V3-V5 when they are at the limit of our ability? They never felt unsafe to me. I didn't think I could injure a tendon, the efforts feel "muscular".

moraigna