Which Wire Connectors Should You Use?

With the DIYer in mind, I will provide my recommendation for wire connectors for your electrical projects around the house. We will cover the construction of each and how to effectively use them on a common install like a ceiling light (solid and braided wires). Additionally, we will discuss the cost of each and the survey results from over 8000 viewers on what they use most commonly.

Connectors Included in Video

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Chapter
0:00 Intro
1:07 Design and Use: Wire Nuts
4:48 Design and Use: Push In
8:13 Design and Use: WAGO 221
10:13 Cost for Each
12:02 Viewer Survey Results
13:22 Recap and Closing Comments

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[honzikklima]

EXACTLY!
Maintenance/electrician for 15 years+ in America.
An electrician in Europe now. Almost nobody here has heard if wire nuts.
My initial prejudice was that wire nuts were superior, BUT the Wago 221 is preferable.

[alandaters]

The Wagos or push ins have a great advantage when hanging fixtures. The stranded wire from the fixture can be pushed in "on the bench". Then on the ladder you only have to push in the solid wire- very easy!

[Edward-wrdk]

I used wire nuts for 50 years but I'm really sold on the Wago Lever connectors. A big advantage especially when connecting 3 or more #12 wires is that the Wago takes up less space and the wire without the twist is a lot more flexible making it much easier to fit into junction boxes. The Wago Lever is a lot easier to connect additional wire, simply pop levers and install new connector with an additional port while wire nuts usually require cutting the bent up ends off and restriping and twisting.

[tpobrienjr]

I grew up with the plain, no-wing wire nuts, but I'm sold on the wago lever nuts. Your demo on stranded/solid wire behavior was superb. I'm a DIY guy, but also a graduate EE.

[ilovefunnyamvnd]

Just last week saw the suggestion for the wago 221, and ordered some immediately. I've got a recepticle box that I updated the switches in, so it then had 5 neutrals, and originally I had to split it into 3+(2+1) because the wirenuts could at most handle 4. It was basically impossible to stuff everything back inside. The wallplate was visibly floating off the wall where the wires bunched up and the switch bottomed out.

Those wago made everything so much better, cleaner wire runs, low profile, room for 5, and it was actually possible to press it into the back of the box, by moving 5 - 14AWG wires, instead of trying to manipulate what was basically a (1/0) AWG.

Sure its more expensive, but this should be in every DIY's toolbox anyway, ESPECIALLY if they plan to swap out those old toggle switches with something newer like a paddle, dimmer, timer, etc that take up more space in the box.

[Faddnn]

We stopped using wirenuts at least 15 years ago in Norway. Wago or other trusted brands are the only thing we use these days.

[richardschaefer]

I've been using wire nuts for almost 50 years as a DIY electrician. I converted to Wago 221s recently and I love them. I used all 221s to install new shop lights in my basement including a wall switch and outlet and I feel like it saved me a lot of time. Particularly when I realized I'd mis-wired the switch connection to the lights. I was able to pull the 221s out easily and fix the problem. This is a lot harder/messier when using wire nuts. (nb I learned my DIY electrical wiring up nuclear reactor control systems in my teens. Try meeting NRC code...)

[russellseaton]

I am a DIY. I started with wire nuts 30 years ago. Used those for 20 years. They work and reuse them when redoing existing electrical with the wire nuts already in the box. Discovered push in about 12 years ago. Love them and use them for all new wiring projects. And sometimes for modifying existing connections too. Never used WAGO due to the very high cost. WAGO are just reusable push in connectors. Usually I only wire things once and do it right the first time so no need for reusable push in WAGO connectors.

[artyzinn]

The first time I saw a Wago connector and tested it, i was sold particulary since it has all the right agency approvals too and used for decades in Europe. As a homeowner, my repair needs are spotty, and this provided rapid to do, and undo, quality connections, UL approved and next to no training required. The real challenge I find is to insure its not counterfeit, when buying it from say, Amazon over DigiKey, authorized distributors matter here and the difference per item is only in the 10-30c a piece.

[davidszakacs]

DIYer here, I just bought some push-ins for a ceiling fan project in my garage. They will save some effort doing the final connections while working up in the attic balanced between ceiling joists!

[marksheltonswork]

I’ve been in the electrical industry since 1976. Regarding wire connections the most important principle is a tight connection. A wire that can be moved after inserted in a connector is not a good connection. This is more important the higher the current. Wire nut connections are the best out of the three you gave as an example. To a trained electrician who knows how to use a wire nut, it is the best for device box make up. Simple and always align the ends of each wire evenly and twist the wire nut even before it touches the wires. You will see that the pull test will prove this the best. Also know how much to strip your wire. The surface of each wire in a wire nut has more contact with each other wire making a much better connection and more solid. Twisted wire has been around since there has been wire. Electrical or not. It has been and will be the best none bolted or compressed wire connection because of more surface contact. These points are very important when considering current. I have tried WAGOs in the past and found that it was a mistake and replacement was necessary. WAGOs are easier to install and that saves time. That maybe why your pro survey showed that almost half use them. I will never use the common WAGO again. In using a WAGO use the wire turn test. After the wire is inserted into a WAGO, turn the wire and see if it turns. If it does than you can be sure it’s a bad connection. Especially if used on or near a homerun that can draw 12 amps or plus. Try the test on the 210 connector. Still the wire surface contact in a WAGO or a 210 is zero. Only a small portion of the wire comes in contact with the connector. In other words you are relying on the connector to pass current from one wire to another. You will find on a high current wire will develop carbon and that will compound the bad connections. Push in receptacle connections are the same and should never be used to pass current to another wire. To back up what I’m saying I will refer you to a receptacle device that does not allow an insert for a grounding wire. This principle is backed in the NEC. The connection is not reliable in a ground fault. It must be under a hex nut for a tight connection. I do use the flip connectors for instrumentation wire but that is as far as I would use it now. If insets type connections are good than you would see breakers use them for wire connections. That will not happen.

Regarding you philosophy regarding pro and “Joe” and a joe might find the WAGO or 210 a better connection is really muted by the fact that there is a licensed electrician. If WAGOs and 210 are used by pros than it’s only because of how cheap the contractor is and also his lack of knowledge of how to use a wire nut. I would suggest you use a disclaimer regarding encouragement of wire terminations. It may comeback at you. At least an amp check or a calculation on how much amps in the wire before using a WAGO. Another reason I use wire nuts on projects is because an electrical engineer will spec this out in his specifications. If an electrical engineer specs this out than that should also make you concerned. If you really want to do a survey than you should survey electrical engineers. You might be shocked. No pun intended.

[GraemePayneMarine]

I had put up with wire-nuts for decades.(but on the job in aerospace electronics I used crimp connectors). The first time I saw push-in connectors I immediately switched to them. I see its time again to switch to lever connectors. Thanks!

[shenmisheshou]

Wago 221 is awesome. I like that they can handle wires of from 24 to 12 gauge, and that they are easy to both install and remove. For a DYI homeowner it just makes projects easier. *I also use them for hobby applications* because they are easier than soldering.

[williamgates]

As a DIY, I found, I use the Wago221 on almost every replacement project. That is to say, replacing existing fixtures, outlets, or switches. I have an older home, and many of the electrical boxes are metal and are tight with up to two lines entering the box. Especially the switched lights and outlets. The Wago 221 is the best for tight spaces where typical wire nuts are way too bulky. I use wire nuts in new construction since many of the new electrical boxes are plastic and have more space in the box—all personal preference.

[tkinllunts]

Got a multi-pack of WAGO 221 when installing some lights. They were by far the easiest way to join the high-gauge (18 maybe) stranded wire to solid copper.

[EverydayKindaGuy]

Love me the Wago connectors. Started using them a couple years back, hands down awesome sauce. Easy to use, easy to disconnect, easy to reconnect/reuse.

[southerntommygun]

All have their pros and cons but something to keep in mind: The lever nuts may save enough in labor to make up for the cost. If you're going to use lever nuts, use Wago. They're UL listed and, if it matters to you, the 221 has a test point so you can check voltages without taking it apart. No matter what you use make sure it's rated for the amperage you're dealing with.

[DriftlessCatholic]

Working on renovating my house and I just found these connectors, I can't believe I didn't know about them. These save time, room in boxes, and peace of mind. I will be retiring my wire nuts!

[xJMANx]

I used the Wago lever nuts today, I had a massive amount of wires in one junction box and had to diagnose why not only the lights didn’t work, but the outlets not having proper power and the breaker tripping when the 2nd lightswitch was flipped. I’m not a pro electrician but it was invaluable to be able to swap wires from one Wago to the other to figure out everything without having to restraighten and untwist wires constantly.

[gahustad]

Agreed, WAGO 221 is the best option. They have become very common here in Norway too. Also consider the great benefit, where you can re-open the connections without damaging the wires. Great system.