Wago Connectors Compared | What Wire Connectors Are The Best?

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In this video i will be comparing wire connectors and we will check out what wago connectors are best. We will also look at how to use the wagobox junction box. If you like the content leave a like and please subscribe for more content like this as I've got a lot more to come and there will be something that will help you out.

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thanks for this demo, you are the best teacher mate, I just finished building a media by just watching your video❤

brodavidmandy
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I've been using wago 221's for the last few years and wouldn't go back to anything else. The amount of time they save easily outweighs the extra cost. Great video as usual

tdanger
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Funny story, I had access to a tensiometer machine a few years back and we tested a wago 222 connector. We wern't supposed to but we had a play on it during our lunch break. We used a bit of tinned 1.5mm multicore wire and clamped it into the wago connector.
We then put it into the tensiometer and let her rip.
We applied 80kg of force to the wire before it finally let go!
That's like hanging a washing machine from it! very impressive.

justandy
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What I like about the chocolate block is the hole (where you snap them) in the middle that you can use a screw in the middle to secure down.

HRW
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I installed three Sunco 4 Inch Ultra Thin LED lights in my kitchen above the sink. The light units only last several months before they radically dim. It was a pain to replace all three lights the other day because the one in the middle has 2 sets of 4 wires under wire nuts. I want to thank you for your video because it shows you can release the lever if you need to pull a wire loose. This will make it so much easier to replace the lights in the future.

cmackscott
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Hi, just want to add, for stranded(flexible) cables, only the 221 are suitable as is. For the screwed terminal blocks and most connectors with screws(there are some exemptions) you really need wire end ferrules for a good secure connection, or soldering for direct connection to printed circuit board and such. The 2nd type connector you showed are really just for solid wires.

stevanstolp
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I used two 5 gang Wago lever connectors on my motorbike to wire in accessories. I used a switched live to one block and earth terminal to the other block. They are low profile making them ideal for wiring in accessories under the seat on a motorcycle. I think they are fantastic.

Jim-nmen
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Great tips
( Those Wago Lever connectors are EXACTLY what I need to wire in my Ham Radio Transceiver in my Truck )

Cheers 🤗

johnanthonycolley
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Fantastic video, I am beginner at electrical, but my old man is an electrical engineer, I feel like a pain in the ass calling for his help so finding something like this really helps. I recently bought 4 x10w floodlights from amazon with the intention of connecting as many as I can per plug, I couldn't visualise how it was done until I seen this. For the record the lights are being fitted above aquariums. And will eventually all run off a timer.

deltoid
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Nice video. I generally use uninsulated Ferrules on stranded cable. makes for a more solid connection and easier to terminate.

ashleygainard
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I found out the hard way that twisted wires don;t engage in the push fits on the job. I wish screwfix mentioned this on their sales page and saved my money.

chrisjw
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Thanks for sharing your expertise many taskers don't like to talk during an estimate or explain things to novices .thumbs up 😅

sayeedharem
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There's something about the wago connectors that most people seem not noticing. It is: when you intend to test their terminals for voltage, it's almost impossible to do this, when the terminals are possibly live.

enahoroerijoh
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I used wago connectors when I replaced my mates bathroom light. Never again will I have to stand on a ladder connecting up wires in chocolate box connectors and wishing I had a third hand. The only annoyance is having to make the hole in the ceiling bigger to take the junction box.😊

fushammer
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I would not use the lever wago connectors if you can't see into them more than half the diyers would strip back the insulation short and the connection would be half on the insulation holding the connection up of the copper which would create a loose connection arcing a fire hazard but I do like the transparent wago connectors with the flexes which could be a heavy load which can't be loose and causing heat Cheers keep up the good work and always use the AFDD protection if possible

JohnDundee-elro
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Excellent video, need to remove piping and cut electrical wires ready for my steel beam to go in then re route and join again. This really helped me 👍🏼👌

BobBenz
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I might be old school but electrically, for cables above 1.5 I think that two cables both long enough to have 2 screws biting down on them in an appropriate size connector block is a better connection. This way you end up with copper against copper which must be better than copper-wago spring-wago spring-copper. I'd welcome feedback on this.

Steve-efss
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Stranded wire in the bus bar type should have a ferrule crimped on the wire before putting it in the terminal and tightening the screw.
The push in Ideal and Wago's style connectors are also reusable. Twist back and forth while pulling on the wire. It will come out. The thin stranded wires can be tinned with solder and they will push in easily.

fauxque
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The lever WAGO's are the best for lighting because at a light fitting you often have solid core and multi strand cable of different sizes so you can easily terminate a 1.5 mm and a 0.75mm in different terminals within the same connector block

chrisdicko
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Learning loads from your channel - you explain things really clearly and always cover the topic thoroughly. Will get some of these in the DIY arsenal as they will come in handy. You have given me the confidence to give electrical tasks around the house a go - keep up with the great videos, look forward to more. Thanks 👍🏻

DjGiluk