How to Replace Rear Shock & Spring Assemblies 2013-2017 Honda Accord

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This video shows you how to install new rear shock & spring assemblies from TRQ on your 2013-2017 Honda Accord. A shock and spring complete assembly simplifies installation. You don't need to separate the spring from the shock absorber.

This repair was done on a 2013 Honda Accord EX 2.4L Sedan 4-Door FWD Automatic and the process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2013 Honda Accord
2014 Honda Accord
2015 Honda Accord
2016 Honda Accord
2017 Honda Accord

Tools you will need:
• 19mm Socket
• Swivel
• Safety Glasses
• 5mm Hex Wrench
• Hammer
• Wheel Chocks

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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

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TRQ

My 2013 Accord was purchased new in 13. 247, 000 miles and has never been to a shop other than for alignments. These cars are easy to work on. Including replacing the VVT cam gear which I have done twice already! Its strut and bearing time. 250K I think it needs them. 250K and only 2 VVT gears? Yep, Hondas work! Never had to crack the A/C yet. This car has been bullet proof.

texastruth

Ok. So work 3 shifts of overtime and pay my local shop to do this front and rear. Got it😅

bradgates

Nice straightforward video. Can you buy that digital torque wrench on your website?

roberts

If you go to torque a nut with a torque wrench, but the nut does not turn before the torque wrench indicates, it was already too tight. Back it off, then re-tighten to the correct torque spec.

davidrabalais

Overall ok video. Couple of issues though.. The OEM sway bar link is NOT a 17mm nut / 5mm hex as mentioned. Rather it is a 14mm nut / 5mm hex as corrected. Also, it is obvious from your video that the sway bar link that you are removing is PRISTINE. It almost looks like you installed a brand new one just to remove it for the demonstration. Perhaps that is why your nut size on it is not OEM, as many aftermarket suspension parts fit, but have different sized nuts and bolts etc. Which brings me to the last point. Most of us who are replacing worn out suspension parts, like the rear shocks and springs, i.e., the reason we are watching this video, have cars with a lot of miles on them, dirt, rust, corrosion etc. If you're going to replace the rear shocks and spring assembly, MAYBE it is also a good idea to replace the sway bar links??? I think this should be mentioned. Also, with dirt, rust, corrosion etc., that sway bar link's nut and hex socket may not come off at all, and will have to be CUT off, which means you're replacing it whether you like it or not. That's what happened to me, as in Michigan, we've got salt and winter slop. So I would recommend replacing the sway bar links too. I think the video showing a pristine sway bar link nut is misleading, as nobody will be doing anything like that and it has made the job look easier than it really is, and also doesn't allude to the fact that you really should replace that too. Just my 2 cents.

RobertMost