How to Insulate an Old Building (DESTRUCTIVE METHOD)

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This building from the mid-19th century had been altered several times and had been semi-abandoned before the current owner took it over. It didn't have any original features, so stripping the walls and ceiling allowed us to install a fully insulated timber frame. If you own a listed building with original cornices or other features, this method usually isn't feasible.

#insulation
#oldbuildings
#oldhouse
#renovation
#renovations
#renovationproject
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Just completed the very same installation on a 1800's Scottish 600mm granite stone house, using 72mm stud timber and 70mm Cooltherm insulation batt.. Complete with a 50mm external wall air cavities, with all the internal stud wall's, also with both the ground floor and first floor ceilings double insulated as well.

jeffreybresnahan
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I bought Rockwool Insulation for my wooden shed would be good. But now I'm told that mould can grow on the wooden part of the shed

joshuacarvalho
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How do you keep the insulation in place when it’s not pressed up against the wall? What is the best type of insulation?

hleg
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Thanks for the video. Would it be beneficial to stick a vent at the bottom and top of a couple of the walls in order to allow some fresh air circulation in the gap?

AtlasofInfo
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No vapour barrier needed on the back of the stud?

darrylmilne
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I'm trying to get my head around this... So you have the 50mm cavity on the inside and therefore the dew point is in that gap... genius.. but how do you ventilate that cavity,

pauloriess
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Hey, quick question.

How do you place, install and fix the OSB board behind the stud framing, whilst maintaining the air gap in front of the stone wall?

My mind is doing mental gymnastics over something that is probably quite simple.

Furthermore, can a vapeur brake be installed instead of a barrier. The brake allows moisture to pass in both directions but at a very reduced rate. The issue I have with my stone wall is it has a stucco cement based render on the external side.

Many thanks.

ameann
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The method we are using is wood fibre direct to the solid 2m 800mm wall, it’s vapour open but excellent thermal insulator…problem is it costs about 4x PIR.

FiscalWoofer
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All well and good until condensation in the void starts to rot the studwork.
Unless you are mechanically ventilating that void you're moisture movement will still sit in the void and eventually rot the wood.
Lime mortar and a wall that thick would have been more than warm enough. Heat would take a long time to leave the property with lime plaster and the sheer depth of wall would likely be fine, depending on the state of your windows and doors. I.e if they are single pane or drafty.
If you don't use breathable materials on buildings of this age, the walls will never get the chance to dry out/evaporate the moisture. That the building takes on over its lifespan.
If you want to insulate a very old building you need to use something that allows moisture movement through the fabric of the building.
This method will show short term results, (heat retention and a positive difference in energy bills) but long term this will not stand the test of time.

jacobdsouzakelly
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Hi if you have a 1920’s home with a cavity in place could you just stud directly on to the internal wall or would it cause future problems thanks

Manny-icmq
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Thanks for this video, could you fix the wooden rafters directly onto the stone and have larger insulation boards fixed onto the rafters at day 600mm centres? This way instead of thermal bridging from all these rafters, you only have thermal bridging from the fixings? If the rafters stopping air is an issue, maybe drill a few holes in each rafter so air can still move through the cavity?

michaelchristensen
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Awesome upload - love the approach you have taken, btw - do you have an update?

felipearbustopotd
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This is very well done, no doubt !
However, I wouldn't do this. I'd rather insulate the exterior of the house . Granted , this will change the appearance of the building and if a listed building, then it may be even prohibited but if done externally, decorative stones can be added to preserve the appearance .
External insulation is surely much better than internal in terms if heat mass of the walls and vapour sealing .

July-A
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Do you need the 50mm cavity or can you install this straight onto the wall… I have a small room… thinking 3x2 frame with 50mm kingspan… fastened to the wall

philquarmby
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Insulate from the outside and you can preserve the features on the inside, but the outside will look boring. So what is more important for you: how it looks from the inside or how it looks from the outside. Decisions, decisions.... ;-)

boldvankaalen
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Excuse me sir, im in the process of doing this exact job to an old building of mine. What would you recommend insulating the internal floors and ceiling with? Thanks and good wishes from scotland ❤️🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

RifRafBif
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I am interested to know how the stone wall will remain dry in the wet winter producing an unacceptable level of internal moisture progressing to mould without the internal warmth/heat acting upon it ?
If at all possible is external insulation preferable ?
Thank you

gibbodive
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That looks like an R 13 at best, with no air seal, which is something that could dramatically improve energy conservation. You're blocking the wall anyway, why not use 2 lb insulation behind those studs to prevent thermal bridging as well?

ThanksAgain
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Do you internal venting aswell for that then?

thomascollins
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How did you keep the gap consistent of 50mm? How is the frame constructed so that it doesn't go against the wall (if that makes sense)

samuelcramphorn