How to BREAK IN a new Stihl, Echo, Husqvarna, etc 2 cycle? PLUS Insider secrets about your new unit!

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Thanks for tuning back into Chickanic! Today we go over the HOT TOPIC of "Breaking In" a new 2 cycle unit. PLUS I have an insider SECRET you're going to want to know!

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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!

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Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment.

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Henry Murawski
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I've been cutting timber for 42 years. I currently have an 046 Stihl that I've been running for 27 years. Not constantly, because I have 30 saws. But that saw literally has thousands of hours on it. I have a lot of high time saws. If you take care of em, they will last a long time. Keep em clean and sharp. Air filter, clutch cover, bar groove and oiler holes. Clean. Run good mix and always shake your gas before you refuel. Don't run yer chain to tight. It gets hot. Heat bad. Learn how to tension the chain properly . Don't rap up a cold saw. Let it warm up for a minute. Give those innards a chance to expand a bit. It takes more than 30 seconds. Blow it out with compressed air occasionally. There are a million ways to abuse a saw, but if you just do these things, you'll be ahead of the game.

brianquigley
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Most old school chainsaw users who had to make their equipment last told me the six most important things to chainsaw longevity are: 1. Proper high quality gas and oil mix; 2. Learn to set your carburetor so you don't lean out the saw; 3. Keep your air filter clean; 4. Let the engine warm up for no less than 30 seconds or more than a minute during the first use for the day; 5. After making a heavy cut/full load let the engine cool down for 30 seconds before hitting the kill switch; and finally 6. Keep your chain sharp at all times. Follow these guidelines and you will extend the longevity f your saw!

obxkoastie
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been watching small engine channels for years and most don't measure up to this lady, so full of knowledge and little tricks to help the home owner 👍

marcelcanuck
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I bought a brand new Stihl MS 180 from my local Stihl dealer a month or so, ago. I did not get them to crank it up before I got it. I took it home and filled it with my two cycle gas and bar oil. I added an extra cap of two cycle oil to the 180’s gas tank. This is my standard break in procedure. I tried to crank it up - forget that. I must have pulled it over 100 times and still could not get it going. I let it set for a while and finally got it going. I let it sit and idle for about 15 minutes, goosing it up several times. I then let it sit overnight before I tried to crank it, again. The first run allowed the rings to seat enough for me to crank it the next morning. I have not had a problem cranking it, since. That first run is important to get the rings partially seated. I always add an extra capful of oil to the gas tank for the first two tanks.

johnclarke
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I am glad you mentioned making sure the oiler is feeding and has fed the bar BEFORE use. I was taught to PRE-OIL the bar groove with a pump oil can when installing a new bar and/or chain and after every bar cleaning/rotation.

rooster
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YES your right the DEALER doesn't mention the Carburetor adjustment after brake in .

richardkoehler
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as a small engine tech of over 21 years, you are correct with technology and every unit being test run for emissions at the plant. the only time you would have to worry about a saw break in would be a complete rebuild or piston/cylinder replacement

karlb
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I always warm my two cycles before I put a load on. You can cold seize the engine. The piston heats faster than the cylinder, so it can expand quicker and seize in the bore. On most saws this is characterized by the piston being gaulded in a thin line on the right side of the exhaust port as you're standing behind the saw. On a normal day that is thirty to forty five seconds. On an extremely cold day, a little longer.

timothybyrom
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Love your videos. I'm a 76 yr. old retired auto tech and I find your vids entertaining as well as informative! Keep 'em coming!

JoeOldJoe
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With a 20 year old MS290, I watch the chain tension, check the bar oil throw, use hi-test gas at 47-48 to 1, and give the saw a shake before using to ensure the gas oil mix. That and cleaning the air filter and the dust and chips off the saw body, engine fins, clutch area, and bar when done for the day. Another tip I was told is to not completely fill the gas tank but fully fill the bar oil tank, Better to run out of gas than bar oil.

Farmer-bhcg
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I’m nearing 70 years and have cut, burned and stacked wood for over 50 years. My first saw was a homelite zip I traded for a used echo cs500vl back in 1988. It is run and run and run and has never not started or been restored. I got it out this past month to cut up a limb that fell on the ground and it started on the third pull.
What a great saw it has been. It’s scuffed, paint is old, and it is all metal! but it has been taken good care of and our house has been warm every winter. Thanks echo for a great old saw I’ll pass on down to my son.

libertyforever
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I just bought my first chainsaw two days ago, a Stihl MS261CM. I haven't even put gas in it yet. I've been binging on all your videos and learning so much about what to do, what NOT to do, and what to look out for. Thanks a million for making these videos!

toddmuddywaters
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When I was in diesel school, our instructor told us the single
most important thing any engine needs to do during its
breakin period is to simply warmup to operating temp,
Then, cool down. Several of these cycles will assist the rings
in seating.

!

ourv
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I live in Western Colorado at 5500 ft above sea level. I would imagine the carburetors are set closer to sea level.
My newest limbing Shihl saw ran like crap new. It would barely cut a 3” limb. I did the muffler mod. Drilled the 1/4 opening in the muffler to 1/2 “. Removed the plastic limit caps, on the carburetor & adjusted it for the increased air flow of the exhaust.
It”ll cut an 8” limb now easily.
That saw is a wicked beast now !

redmesa
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Thank you young lady for ALL the insight

Yoteach
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Love that i figured out how to tune my stihls. Theyre completely different beasts now

rorynelson
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So hard for an Old Dog to learn new tricks. Bought my first new chain saw back in 1976 when it was recommended that a multi step break in procedure be followed. Although I am not contradicting what you are saying, old habits are hard to break. Right or wrong, I still follow this break in procedure with any new or rebuilt two cycle engine, without any guilt feelings. By the way, this old Stihl 041AV which I bought new in 1976, still runs quite well, but because of its’ weight and these 74 year old arms and shoulders not having the strength they once had, it's use is quite limited. I also made the switch from Stihl to Shindaiwa/Echo in 2003 and have never looked back.

Willy
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I break in stuff the way I learned it 40 years ago. I add a capful of extra oil to the tank of the new piece of equipment and fill it up with my standard 45:1 Stihl Ultra mix. If it is a chainsaw I fill up the bar oil tank with my standard bar oil - Echo Premium bar oil. I use Echo bar oil because it is cheaper than Stihl bar oil and just as good, plus it is all season bar oil. I will set the carbs on my saws a little rich for breakin. Yesterday, I checked my MS 260 P with a tach for the first time. It has five cold and hot cycles on its new cylinder and two tanks of gas. It tacked out at 12, 450 and an idle of 2, 300. I raised the idle to 2, 520 and left the WTO where it was. I will check it again after five tanks and adjust if need be. I set my saws at 12, 600-12, 800. There is enough soon to be junk running 14, 500+ out there. My saws are not junk and I don’t treat them that way.

johnclarke
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That explains the issue I had with a new Walbro carb. Thanks for verifying I’m not nuts!

jeffpeters
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Wow! I was always so OCD about "break in" on small engines but after that I ran them hard. Which goes against how I build motorcycles. Cuz my philosophy was breaking in like you're going to ride them! Thank you for the awesome video!! 👍🏻👍🏻

clrdtkoff