Your Valvoline Restore and Protect comments have revealed something GREAT!

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In this video I present the all the comments on my Valvoline restore and protect video and I link the spreadsheet here for your viewing. I also have a Google form if you want to fill it out and to the comments spreadsheet.

Valovline patent links:

No rewinding, just evolving. Life's a chessboard, mistakes fuel growth. Embrace the irreversible, and learn from every move. No takebacks, just checkmate your fears and become a master of your own journey. #notakebacksjustgrowth

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In this video I present the all the comments on my Valvoline restore and protect video and I link the spreadsheet here for your viewing. I also have a Google form if you want to fill it out and to the comments spreadsheet.



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Valovline patent links:


No rewinding, just evolving. Life's a chessboard, mistakes fuel growth. Embrace the irreversible, and learn from every move. No takebacks, just checkmate your fears and become a master of your own journey. #notakebacksjustgrowth

oneanddonediy
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I think even if your engine is not dirty, you will still have stuck piston rings and plenty of deposits. There are a bunch of areas of the engine that will still accumulate deposits even with regular full synthetic oil changes. Valvoline just released a video where they did conventional vs full synthetic 500k miles and the full synthetic still had a stuck piston ring. The conventional had almost every piston ring stuck. And most interstingly they had a stuck hydraulic timing chain tensioner. That's interesting because i did some digging and from what i can tell, there is a check valve inside the tensioner that can get stuck from deposits, just like hydraulic lifters. Same for the variable timing stuff on the top side of the engines. So no matter how you slice it, all of these components could benefit from restore and protect because they dont so much as fail from mechanical wear, but from the internal clearances getting clogged with deposits. Even full synthetic oil will add deposits over time, it's just less than conventional oil. But restore and protect claims to actually remove/reverse deposits. Not just add them at a much slower rate. If you can get you check valve clear in your chain tensioner that could mean reversing chain rattle. If the lifters get cleaned out that could save the lobes on your cams and remove the ticking noises.if the rings are even more loose and free from cleaning out the grooves that could mean higher compression and a more uniform seal, which in turn could mean less wear on the cylinder bore. If this does in fact wash off the valves on direct injected vehicles that could also improve sealing and air/exhaust flow. I could imagine that would be much slower than inside the crankcase where the splashing of oil actually washes off stuff but still it would be a very convenient byproduct if the valves somehow were washed off over time. I have a feeling it might still get caked on/dried on since it's so hot and dry to begin with, compared to the piston rings. But time will tell.

miltechmoto
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I just changed my oil and Installed Valvoline restore and Protect. Excited to see how this oil performs in my vehicle. I will have the oil analyzed after the second drain Intervale. I am going to purchase a borescope and monitor the valves going forward. I will share my findings in the future. My vehicle needs 1 quart of oil after 1200 miles. I am hoping to slow oil consumption. The engine has 179, 000 thousand miles .

dannyboy
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You commented that if you have a clean engine that is not burning oil, you likely won't have a benefit by using Valvoline RP. That is true for older non GFI engines. But I believe if you have a GDI engine with no port injection, new or old, even if the engine is clean with no oil burn, you would have the benefit of preventing carbon buildup on the intake valves and the piston rings. Thanks for the videos on RP.

erics
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While this may be a very good oil, perhaps revolutionary, its hard to imagine how it would clean carbon buildup on valves. 🤷🏼‍♂️

nickhahn
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I switched to VRP primarily because my vehicle model year has a TSB for oil consumption issues due to low friction rings. Whilst I don’t have oil consumption at 125K miles I’m just going to use VRP going forward in order to hedge against that future possibility.

EvzenKovar-ip
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I just purchased a 1998 32' RV with a 7.1l 454 BBC in it with only 46k miles but plan on immediately doing an oil change using the Restore and Protect 5W30 just to ensure things are cleaned up in there.

TakeDeadAim
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I feel the oil is overhyped. You'll never know it's working without an engine teardown, before and after.
Cut the oil filter, big deal. People have a lot of crud in their oil filter from running other oils. See it all the time. You are better off using an oil like Amsoil or HPL to help clean the engine. They have a large amount of detergents in them. Virgin oil analysis shows that the R&P has low oxidation.
It's relying on the base oil to do everything
If your piston rings are stuck, it's already too late. The cylinder walls are already scored.

littlet
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How do you know if your oil filter has entered bypass?

raymondrobinson
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Change my oil every 3.000 miles for 10 years, and I don't really need it, Ford V10. Use Valvoline High Milage.

southerncross
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Can anyone help me I have a GDI 2.4 engine that burdens 1 quart every thousand miles I just did an oil change with this oil and put Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer. Hopefully this helps. Has anyone had oil burning consumption issues that they were able to fix?

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