Best Base for Pavers | 4 Base Preparation Methods with Different Applications

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There is no single base preparation method for pavers that will apply to every project. Instead, choosing the right base to install depends on variables that need to be considered on every project. Educating yourself on each of the methods to install pavers will provide you with a toolkit to provide your clients with the best possible end product while helping you stand out from your competition by doing so.

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1) Traditional Base
Best Applications:
- Front Walkways on grade where the driveway has been completed using the same material
- Some Retaining Walls

2) Open Graded Base
Best Applications:
- Raised Patios
- Some Retaining Walls

3) Synthetic Base
Best Applications:
- Any pedestrian traffic project that is on grade and not tying into another pavement.
- Retaining walls and features under 18" in height.

4) Concrete Base for Pavers
Best Applications
- Where existing concrete has already been installed, is in good condition, and we feel confident enough in its integrity to build on top of it. Example: Pool patios and front porches.
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Great video.. Love the clear advantages you demonstrate of using 1/4-angled stone (or pea gravel) instead of concrete sand, which I'll summarize here: (1) Doesn't have "fines" so there are no fines to washout, creating voids, (2) Doesn't require compaction, (3) Drains better, (4) Can be installed in the rainy conditions.

larryzdanis
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As a DIYer for the very first time to do pavers. I totally lost before I watch your video. I have 18 ton 3/4 gravel sit on my drive way and I thought i ordered the wrong stuff after I saw most of the video on youtube useing crush runner. thank you for your video. This answers all my question abou the base for pavers. This is the only video I found so helpful and so detail explaination.

qicoocooqi
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The sidewalk project I'm working on is a rework. I did this about 7 or 8 years ago without knowledge. I didn't think I used a proper base material but, after digging down today, it revealed a proper base. I just have to "peel" back the base and place a new Geotextile layer and repeat the base and screen layers. It feels so good to know the proper technique (even though it's still labour intensive. Thanks for all your videos and tips!

martywillichuk
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Thank you so much for you content that just keeps on giving!!
My question is how close to a wood basement can you compact the soil? We removed our rotting deck and realized we had to dig out the basment walls to seal them. I would like to replace it with a patio but the soil around the house is settling. It's clay based soil, proper drainage was put it.

carlanorman
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I do the exact same job in the uk, methods and materials seem very similar terminology is completely different. I also like to use 100mm compacted dry lean concrete as a base for road way or driveway with 30mm sharp(concrete) sand I find you save money on the dig as you take less out and what you put in is incredibly strong. Also I wouldn’t personally install a natural stone patio on anything other than hard standing (concrete) base due to subsidence over time 2-5 years. Good job thoe definitely know your stuff 👍🏻

alexjames
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I’ve sold a lot of paver patios on concrete float pads. The ultimate base for pavers in my opinion

KCBURD
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Is it possible that you have a guide that refers to which method to use for the particular ground conditions that the pavers will be going over. I think it would help out your video a lot and take away some of the mystery.
Truly, an awesome video, though I really appreciate it.

brasha
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Your videos are very informational and helpful. I wish I could work and learn from you if you were in north Texas, you are very professional and I enjoy watching your videos.

-
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Love your channel and the approach toward educating viewers.

Question: what would be your recommendation for side yard (hidden, 6 feet between foundation and privacy wood fence), in freeze thaw zone. Probably used for small storage etc. There's about a 6 inch slope over the 6 feet). The slope is throwing me off. On the one hand you want to slope away from foundation. On the other, you'd like to be fairly level for the paver walkway.

Would love a video on how to deal with grades in different areas of hom and approaches for each.

Keep up awesome content.

calm
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Great job! Great tips! Now that’s a Pro! 👍🤩💪

lennyadamowicz
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This video was so great and helped a lot. We are redoing all the landscaping for our backyard and we just wanted to pave the whole yard and leave a small green space for our waste bins. I was wondering which method you think would be best to pave the whole yard for cheap? Originally we were going to do the traditional way but I would like to know what you think.

ebhanehiirabor
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You are amazing, and all of your content is so incredibly helpful!
Quick question, I've been excavating for a small patio, and intend on using paver base panels because it works best for my townhome and the space we have. I've gotten to the subsoil, though because of weeds that had been growing, as I have dug those out, my subsoil is quite uneven. Can I compact this, despite the unevenness, and the screeding process will even it out, or should I use a bag or so of say limestone, compact that in to make more of an even surface, and then go ahead with my geotextile and screeding?
Also, I definitely would need to get all the weeds out right? :P
Thank you again for all of your incredible insight!

ahusainy
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Nice job only one question though that synthetic base material doesn't seem like it's a sustainable choice not sure I would skimp on a proper subbase as it's served me well for years 👍, epic landscaping work by the way very skilled

gilespanton
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Great video. Do you have any cross sections of how you apply the layers? I am specifically referring to after excavation. For example doing a driveway and walkway with clay soil. Excavate to the clay layer, then do you apply the non woven geotextile, then the sub base, then the hpb then the pavers???? I tried my best to follow along but a diagram of the layers would be great, especially for a driveway application with the non woven and the grid textile you were using. I didn't quite understand where you put each of the layers of geotextile (woven and the grid). Thank you I look forward to your reply.

brucemalmstrom
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This was a great video on explaining the different methods and the pros and cons of each.
One question, would the paver base panel method support a hot tub sitting on top of the pavers?

benjaminhaag
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Awesome video, thank you for all the details. A follow up question: For the traditional base, is there a reason that concrete sand is used beneath the pavers rather than polymeric sand? Would it be okay to use polymeric sand for the 1" base beneath the pavers? Thanks!

michaelapone
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Thanks for all the great information! I have a couple of questions. I am installing the 2' x 2' x 5/8" thick Corso Italia porcelain tile rom Home Depot in front of my outdoor fireplace/kitchen built with Chicago Common Brick on cinder block, which is located in Chicago. The space is approximately 4.5' x 16' and is surrounded by the fireplace on one side and concrete on the remaining three sides. Plus, we're going to add a second 11' x 11' patio area. I've excavated approximately 5" in depth and leveled and hand tampered the area about 6 times. Next, I've added a 20 year weed barrier and approximately 3.75" grade 8 CA6 gravel, which I've hand tampered about 4-5 times. Next, I plan on adding the leveling sand, Brock Paverbase panels and finally, the porcelain pavers. My questions are as follows: The paver area is surrounded on all four sides by the brick fireplace and concrete...do I need to account for a 6" wide space against the concrete (but not against the brick) or will the elevated sloped pavers be sufficient for drainage for the long run? I've seen paver patios like mine without the 6" gap, including in this video. Also, the below grade cinder block has been sealed twice. I plan on sealing the lower 1-2 brick levels too.

alexmoncada
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Awesome video, I'm currently doing a front walkway in rural southern Ontario (no concern regarding the driveway attaching, foundationm great drainage and slope) and I've been following Permacon install manual to the letter. I ordered crushed 3/4 and was about to order the concrete sand but I realize now that the yard sent me 3/4 clear, which would mean I have to use HPB. I'm using Rosebel slab from Permacon (I've noticed you have used or worked with them before), the manual says it has 1/8" joints. I'm assuming I can space them out to 1/4" and use HPB and carry on with my install. What are your thoughts regarding on this the future success of open graded with all materials considered?

Also do you use a plate compactor with HPB?

alfonzospancake
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I can’t done any do the open grade stuff in montana. Neither gravel company in town as heard of #57 stone. And don’t have 1-4 or 3/8 crushed pea stone. They just sell 3/4 crushed bedding rock. Wish has a lot of rounds in it compared to you pictures and the small stuff is same, some crushed but still lots of rounds. I don’t feel like what I got is going to compact the same way as the all jagged stuff

brockkirschenmann
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Great video! Are you build Steps on top of synthetic alligator paver base?

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