Asphalt, Concrete or Paver Driveways- Which is the best?!?

A showdown between Asphalt, Concrete, Stamped concrete, and Pavers. We cover the Pro's and Cons' and Prices. Plus Pro-Tips on how to dramatically improve the life of these surfaces. When your done with this video you should be able to decide if asphalt, concrete, stamped concrete or pavers are right for your property.
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[danervin]

I laid down concrete pavers at my parent’s house in 2009. It was for an extension on either side, and my dad wanted to be able to park and drive medium duty vehicles on it. We ended up with a 12-14” aggregate base, with 3 separate layers of geo-grid in between. It’s been 9 years and had tons and tons and tons of trucks, loaded dump trailers, equipment, etc on them. Literally no settlement. We’re in MD and it’s lasted through many harsh winters. NO salt was ever used on it though.

[dylon]

As an asphalt contractor and Sealcoater you can get a long life out of a asphalt driveway with proper maintenance. First when your going to get your driveway paved make sure they put at least 4 inches or gravel down and get it compacted. Then what most people don’t know is that company’s are only putting down top coat at 2-3 inches instead of putting a binder down at 1.5 inches and then top down at 1.5 inches so you get three inches total. I couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve paved a driveway or did patch work and find out there’s not only just top coat down but it’s only a inch thick. When your a home owner I would recommend asking the contractor to but road binder down instead of driveway binder because it’s a a lot stronger. And after the paving is done in 1-2 years you should Sealcoat your driveway, not with the stuff you can buy st home depo either you want a pro. And you want to be careful who you hire you want a company who uses a sand slurry mix. It’s the best to reguvinate the oils in the asphalt and you want to find a good company and learn about what they use for material ask them for a pamflit the plant hands them out for free! You also want to watch out for some company’s who will end up watering there material down. So do your research first. And after you get your driveway seal coated it should last 5+ years before it has to be re sealed again do not do it every year it will clog the pours on the asphalt and make it crack.

[rickjohnson]

I was involved In asphalt paving for 30+ years. I've sealed it, cracked filled it, patched it, removed it, Installed it, hauled it and loaded it out BIG TIME ( all of the above) . When I put my asphalt drive way in I kinda went over board. I put probably 2 feet of stone in the driveway lol. Let it sit in stone for about 2 years then installed it in 2 lifts. 1 and a half binder / inch and a half surface lol. OK it was a little over kill, it was still there after 35 years, starting to fail a bit but still solid. In my world " black is beautiful"

[brunolamote]

As a Belgium farmer I would choose asfalt then concrete and last pavers. Because when the subsoil drops asfalt gently follows without breaking (to some degree) concrete creates holes underneath and when they are big enough the concrete gets destroyed. Pavers are just not strong enough for me. But in al cases thicker is better just like Stanley said and don't forget about the quality

[KikoMaggiña]

I couldn't ask for more. This is a great, self explanatory video about the different types of surfaces that you can put on your driveway. Very well done sir.

[Chanesmyname]

We had pavers fitted because we trusted the person giving the advice and explaining the pro and cons to them, much like you have explained and those pavers still look great and any dipping over time has been lifted filled and levelled.

[burdizdawurdOfficial]

As a fourth alternative, especially for people who have their own machines, gravel makes an excellent road surface. Every ten years we get some more and regrade with the backhoe. No cracks, no sealing, no settling, but you have to like gravel. I've lived with the driveway my entire life, so it's not a big deal but for a more urban area a hard surface would be better.

[thomasseibold]

Thanks for such a concise and objective overview. Your video strikes the perfect balance of authoritative delivery without bluster, inspires confidence based on your obvious experience, and keeps things moving visually and conceptually without going too fast. I've had great luck with a stamped concrete driveway, but only because my contractor/friend advised me to spend the extra for what must be a 6-inch pour with lots of rebar--no cracks (other than the cut ones) after ten years! However, I have a long driveway and am considering replacing the asphalt stretch with pavers. Thanks for the tips on how to make it last better.

[fermiticus]

In my years as a mason, landscaper, etc....I have done several paver driveways (patios and walkways too)...I have poured many driveways...and now I work for myself, sealcoating asphalt driveways (and handyman services).
My landscaping is boulder walls...my patio/firepit and walkways are stone...and my driveway is gravel. When I die...they will cart me out of here via my gravel driveway.

[michaellwalker]

Wow! I greatly appreciate you posting this, as the wife and I are currently trying to figure which way to go. Whatever we choose, we're gonna see about putting down a thicker base layer for sure!

[jeffhoser]

DM, the "bottom line" for engineering a driveway - like any road - is "base " ! Driveways and hard patios - like any travel way - fails from the " bottom up " ! Your video is a most cogent and worthwhile examination of the issues !

[jcchandley]

Thank you so much for your video. It has helped me make the decision to use pavers to replace my old, tired, worn asphalt driveway. It's great to have expert advice.

[carolyngrey]

Gives enough infrormation about some things to consider about using asphalt, pavers, or concrete for building a driveway.

[soullessone]

i put a base of 12" crushed asphalt on my parking area and 6" out to the road never had any problems nor do i have any cost of maintaining

[breaubarile]

Stan, just a side note for pavers. Some pacers can be turned over but most are one sided. How ever they still are the easiest to repair if cracked. When I do a paver project, I always leave extra pavers for that reason.

[denver]

Thanks for the comparison, I guess the stamped concrete is off my list.

[davidnewman]

I have a Seal Coating Business and I have to say you edumacated me a lil more I enjoy your videos keep em coming and again A1 Video

[jayphillips]

Couple of points about concrete:
1 - All concrete shrinks when curing, just like the mud in a puddle cracks and curls in a summer sun. A finisher's job is to control how fast the curing happens and providing for joints to direct the cracking to specific places. Rebar, wire mesh, fibermesh, not pouring in heat/wind/low humidity and different chemicals can assist in minimizing shrinkage and subsequent cracking, spalling, etc. Whether mechanical jointing or diamond saw cutting is used, it has to be the proper depth and location. Water/cement ratio is important. Concrete thickness doesn't necessarily deter cracking.
2 - To a large degree, especially in severe freeze/thaw areas, subgrade prep is top dog in assuring long term slab integrity. Adequate washed rock drainage directly underneath the slab, along with compacted subgrade beneath that provides for maximum resistance to frost heaving from expandable clays and subsurface water. Rebar in impact areas or soft loamy subgrades helps. Integral piers in the slab can help extremely soft areas.
3 - Salt, de-icer, magnesium chloride, etc. kills concrete. Period.
4 - Over-tooling when finishing causes much of the surface cracking, along with adverse weather. Pour it and get the initial finish on, then let it bleed and stay off until it's time for the kneeboards. Don't throw water on the surface, and don't rub on the edges for something to do while it sets up. Save your energy to hit it when the time is right and you'll be rewarded with a nice looking job.

/24 years in the biz, batching, hauling and finishing.

[straydoggio]

Good video. Last year I did a bit of 'science' study when looking at concrete as a possibility for my driveway. I've still not moved forward on it yet, but I'm lifting my research from a Word file FYI, because it compliments your own findings about salt and concrete risks: >>> Concrete has high strength when it is compressed, or 'squeezed'. However, it is extremely weak when it is subjected to tension, or 'pulled'. Salt can take advantage of this weakness. Believe it or not, while concrete appears to be a very dense material, it is in fact quite like a blotter. It can and does absorb water. You can actually see this happen on a hot summer day. Sprinkle some water on your sidewalk or driveway and look very closely. You can actually see the water penetrate the surface of the concrete. When you spread rock salt on your concrete to melt snow and ice, the salt dissolves the snow and makes a salt water mush. The melting action of the salt allows water to enter the concrete. If the temperature then drops and the water freezes, the growing ice crystals can blast apart the concrete. Salt is also hygroscopic. It attracts water. It can cause concrete to become more saturated with water than it would otherwise. The presence of this extra water in freezing conditions can spell trouble. The volume of water increases by 9 percent when it freezes within the concrete matrix. The pressure of the growing ice crystals can cause the surface of the concrete to fail. It usually spalls off. <<<

[php]

Our condominium association went crazy on a very expensive paving system for our short main drive almost 25 years ago. It was chosen with long term durability. I forgot what underlay came first the sand or the crushed gravel but geomat were laid between them. Then the really expensive part was laid in, 6 inches of reinforced concrete. After the concrete cured a very thin dusting of sand was applied before cobblestones, asphalt or finish concrete was applied. This top pavement is called the ware layer and is expected to be replaced when salt damage or other damage occurs with less effort. The driveway had to be cut through with heavy concrete cutters on week for emergency access to a water main break but otherwise the rest of the driveway is quite even and pleasant to use. 25 years later the condo association is quite happy with this expensive paving system.