How to rebuild an Edelbrock or Carter AFB carburetor | Part 1 - Disassembly | Hagerty DIY

Carburetor problem keeping you off the road? Get out the tools and let Kyle Smith walk you through rebuilding your Edelbrock or Carter AFB. In part 1 of a two-part DIY, we go through full disassembly and share tips for getting stubborn carbs dismantled and identifying parts so that even if you’ve never had to adjust the choke, you can tear down and prepare your carburetor for reassembly.

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[doncapak]

You guys just got my 68 vette running after sitting since 1984. This video was very very helpful

[treezfb]

I love the comments about people getting their cars running. I got a 74’ dodge dart and it had a 4 barrel carb and we got the motor (it’s a 360) running and me and my dad got it on the road again after 30 years.

[bhorschman]

Just wanted to say thank you for this awesome video. I just rebuilt my aftermarket Edelbrock 1409 marine carb for a 1988 Bayliner and resolved all my problems. Other than small carbs for 2 stroke engines, I've never tackled a 4 bbl. Your video was extremely thorough and was just what I needed to get the job done.

[stuwilson]

I am rebuilding my 1406. I found this video very informative and easy to follow

[josec]

The best carb tear down video I have ever seen

[HootOwl]

Interesting disassembly narrative, Kyle, but there are a few things i would have done differently.
Pulling the air Cleaner Stud is easy. Either grab it with slipjoint pliers or double-nut the shaft and turn it with a wrench. Out of the way, it's much easier to operate. I always unscrew the Acellerator pump linkage before lifting the top off. The S link should look like "S" never a "Z" on reasssembly.
I use very fine needle nose pliers to pull the hairpins off the linkages. Magnetized tips are helpful.
The replacement Edelbrock p/n 1470 accelerator pump shaft is white plastic. The OEM Carter AFB part was brass. Replacing the ''donut'' [rimmed O-ring ] gasket is always a good idea, and will go on the brass shaft.. Old school Carters had leather cup accellerator pump gaskets. [Like old Coleman stoves.] A fingertipful of clean 30 weight motor oil can revitalize them.
Federal Mogul bought out Carter in the Ninties. They continued to market the AFB under the Carter Competition Series. These carbs were made by Weber, who also built the Edelbrock Performer [AFB clones]. Older Carters had the slotted screws on top, later ''Competition Series" models and Edlebrocks used the torx capped screws. I tried to buy a 500 CFM Carter AFB for a '68 292 Chevy L6 build, in 2004, but Edelbrock was by then, the only game in town for this style carb. So I now have a 1404.
On my '71 GMC Jimmy 4x4's V8 350, I run a Carter [Comp Series] 9605S AFB with 600 CFM. [= EDL 1405]. I prefer a manual choke, looks like the previous owner was of the opposite philosophy. As Nyman's Garage pointed out the factory 600 CFM w/ auto choke would've been a 1406.
The ''white stuff'' on the bottom of your accellerator spring was probably lead oxide deposits. That fuel became unavailable after the turn of the last century. Might give you an idea how long that carb sat.
When I'm doing a metering rod/jet change, I loosen and rotate the pear-shaped retaining ports. Moving them out by 120* you can usually access the rods and springs. I have to do this annually to lean out my 292 to pass emissions. After re-registration, we tune it back for performance. The Jimmy with a 350 is now emissions-exempt, as I have Year of Manufacture [1971] plates on it and Hagerty insurance.

[burntsilverado]

1405 is manual choke. 1406 is electric choke. The electric choke is an add on to that 1405. 1477 rebuild kit fits all edelbrocks.

[Billccm]

Helping me get confident to tackle my 1406. I have the 1477 rebuild kit and will start this weekend. Wish me luck.

[moeshouse]

i have found that a 7 / 32 float level gives you a good off idle response. the old instruction sheet will some times show a VERY wide rang of float level call outs on different models. so if you want to experimental try small changes.

[wagsmoto]

I'm planning on rebuilding my friends Toyota Hilux carb, this video has been very insightful on what to expect, I really like how you explained how components work. Luke Wagner.

[mrblanche]

When I'm disassembling the carb, I lay out a long piece of tape. Masking or duct tape will work, but I like to use wrapping tape. I lay it out sticky side up, turning the ends under so it will stay in place on the table. Then I put the parts I remove on the tape in order, so bumping the table won't result in a disaster, as it might if they were just lying on the table loose.

[samhicks]

Was disassembling my Carter AFB and used purple power as a degreaser, *Big mistake*

The purple power ate through the grease and grime and parts of the aluminum.

When I pulled the carb out of the tank, white aluminum oxide Crystal's have formed wherever there was aluminum. The carb before had a aluminum clear shine but after the degreaser, the carb is now a dull matte black.

As a pre cautionary, use some pine sol, or carburetor cleaner in a bucket.

Just some tips from a rookie to help you avoid getting in the same situation.

[matthewsimon]

Thank you so much! This is going to save me a load of time, headaches and aggravation!

[skwerldeath]

Excellent video! Thank you for your camera skills and enunciation.

[JS-symo]

Thanks a ton, truck is running better than ever!!

[ryanspoon]

Great video. Youtube did you dirty with excessive ads.

[noampitlik]

I like the models right before Edelbrock bought the patents. They have a rivited "Carter" tag, just like Edelbrock uses. Drill and tap that unused boss and make it dual-feed.

[timthemechanix]

Hey Bro, good video but AFB was actually factory equipment on 1965 Chevy Caprice, 327 300 hp. Up until a couple months ago it sat in a field in Wyoming for 30 years. I just completely rebuilt the engine, carbs the last thing.

[jfuji]

A quick point...When looking for a base point of the idle air adjustment screws and screwing in the screws becareful not to screw down the screws to tightly, you will deform the base of where the screws make contact or deform the screws them selves . Another way is to UN screw and count the rotations as the screws come out. This way no damage can result.

[jucedcustoms]

Carb gospel! Thank you for the great video!