Introduction to Rope Descending Devices

Intro to Descending Devices:
This is not so much an instructional video, but more so a very introductory video for what types of rappelling/descending devices are out there. I’m covering 15 devices (including Munter-on-Carabiner) for canyoneering, rescuing, mountaineering, and caving. There are lots of videos out there with more in-depth gear comparison (usually between 2 or among 3) as well as in-depth gear use instructions (adding frictions, locking off, rigging, etc) if any of these gears tickle your fancy and you want to pick a couple and go down the YouTube rabbit holes with them.
Here’s the breakdown of the video:
1st Category: Common/Basic Canyoneer Descenders:
Imlay Critr
Sterling ATS
BG Gear Sqwurel
Petzl Pirana
2nd Category: Figure 8s
Black Diamond Figure 8 (many other brands make it too)
Mammut Nano 8 (Rock Exotic Micro 8)
SMC Personal Escape/Survival 8
3rd Category: Descenders with Rigging Plates
Rock Exotic Totem
Phoenix CRT
4th Category: Single Bar Descenders
Conterra Scarab
Kong Hydrobot
5th Category: Racks and Bobbins
SMC Micro Rack (BMS Micro Rack, Petzl Rack, CMI Mini Rack)
Petzl Stop
6th Category: Multi-Purpose/Non-Dedicated Descenders
ATC
Munter Hitch on a Carabiner
Personally, as a canyoneerer, I favor the Critr. I have noticed many in the Southwest also use Critr. Sqwurel has a pretty significant fan base as well for those who prefer one-sided friction adjust.
Single Bar Descenders are not as often seen outside of rescue, but they do have their small loyal fan base. The Scarab is the Sandal Hiker’s choice of canyoneer (also caving) descender.
For contingency rigging of rope at the anchor, figure 8 (also rescue 8) and Totem are frequently used in the Southwest Area. Totem and Phoenix are also used in rescue.
As far as I’ve seen in the caving community around here, the rack users and bobbin (Petzl Stop-style) users seem to be about half and half.
Special thanks to Khanh, Harlan, Julia, Chad, and Alec for letting me borrow their gears.

Created with the #GoPro App on my iPhone.

[ActionAdventureTwins]

What i really like about the rappel rack is that if you let go of the rope for any reason the bars tend to bunch up and cause more friction slowing you down and making it much harder to fall. That Definitely saved me once already

[AndrewLitton]

This and your other videos are so insightful and full of knowledge all in one spot!

[allisonwashington]

I was surprised that in the ‘no descender’ scenario you didn’t show a double carabiner break. I’m an old (started climbing in 1971) and back then there were no dedicated descending devices; the carabiner break was the standard rappel method.

[heritagejonery]

The Petzl Stop dose not have adjustable friction. For extra fraction you need a braking carabiner or to use it with a petzl freino z, the latter being petzl preferred method now. If you use the handle as adjustable friction when descending it will knacker your ropes.

[charleswhit]

Thank you! this was very informative and helpful

[johnniedermeier]

Great instructional video! I also love the picture of the two of you eating the devices!! LOL

[jordanross]

Like. I’ve never once in my climbing life thought “damn this gri gri/atc is just too heavy”

[brotherlove]

fun video and great demos. I have never been able to figure out what the intent of the horns on classic figure 8s are for. Also, the world of ATC is just as populated as the 8 category. I taught my Scouts that since you alwyas have a belay partner, the person on the ground can always also fully control your descent should something happen to you. Yeah theyare very fast, but like you said, simple and cheap

[jonnes__]

13:08 Maybe a backup with a Prusik knot.
And please do not lead the holding rope via the screwed carabiner lock. Use the other side of the carabiner.
.

[ForestWanderer_YT]

Thank you for the video. Extremely informative! I subscribed!

[rafagarcia]

That’s was a great video! Learned a lot about other devices

[mirandahotspring]

The rack you showed has a dangerous feature, when you close them the bars clip onto the frame! That allows people to death rig them, ie put the rope in the wrong way. When they put their weight onto it the rope pops out immediately! The ones we used all had bars that swung freely.

[smitm]

Might want to check out Conterras video "How to rappel with a Conterra Scarab®" before you get someone hurt. After trapping the rope with the crossbar, you always go to the forward horn, not the rear horn as you demonstrated.

[DuBCraft]

This isn't too applicable to canyoneering, but you can add more friction to an ATC by clipping more carabiners into the rope. On a double rope rappel with an added ~100-150 lbs hanging off of me, using 2 biners (or one extra biner) gave me a fantastic descent. (I weigh 130 lbs, so the total was probably around 250lbs. I had so much crap on me because I was bailing off a bigwall climb)

[RawSauce]

Caver here, we also have some HUGE racks rated for either very very deep single pitch pits (~600ft+) or for rescue operations. The Petzl Stop is a "Bobbin" style descender, and you can find similar bobbin devices from other manufacturers, with and without brake assist.

[JoshuaJohnsonOutdoors]

Great video Guys, thank you. I've used a handful of those options quite a bit. Do you have any particular favorites?

[ErikKloeker]

Locking off the atc is easy, pull the stand thru the carabiner and tie a mule overhand knot on the top strand. I use it with the Edelrid Bullproof carabiner which has a dedicated steel rope wear plate on an aluminum carabiner.

[Isaac_L..]

The Petzel stop should always be used with a breaking carabiner (like a freino Z, raumer handy, or a steel non-locking carabiner). Use without one could result in a uncontrolled descent. Also the stop feature should generally not be trusted as a full hands free lockoff.

[ElpisMagna]

Hello guys. In the video, for both the Piranha and the Oka Kong, the rope must be passed through the small horn on the left, so that it creates friction. The figure eight must be put in a secure position and the rope will never be below the figure eight, facing the wall, it always goes with the loop on top to avoid the lark knot in case of hitting the wall. The Stop2 always comes with a braking carabiner, which I recommend the Freino Z or the Handy Raumer. If you have the opportunity to try the double eight, to lock and unlock in a flying rappel, it is much simpler and easier than the traditional eight. Regards from Alt Maresme (Catalonia)

[geneo]

You can use a double rope on the sqwurel just use a 8mm to 9mm rope