Learning to Trad Climb: Part 1 - Belaying with two ropes

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Follow Clare’s journey in learning the basics of trad climbing on a five day-course with instructor, Alice Kerr. Clare has been climbing for three years, starting off indoors and more recently sport climbing outdoors in north Wales and Spain.

In part 1 of this series, and their first meeting, Clare explains what she’d like to get out of the course. Before they head to the crag, Alice covers basic climbing checks, belaying using a manual belay device and introduces double rope technique.

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I paid a lot of money for a trad course and yet I had no such good and details explanations! Great job!!!

AlessandroAI

That lead belay technique was super awkward. Sliding the hand down the rope is absolutely fine and ISN’T the same as tunnelling. Tunnelling is where you slide the hand UP the rope which means it isn’t possible to be in control of the rope at all as it’s physically impossible to slide up a rope and keep any amount of grip on it whereas you can easily slide your hand down a rope and keep a grip on the rope. If you don’t believe me, go try it for yourself.

Nick-B

Super helpful actually! Just started getting into climbing now🙂

lukebohemian

Do you really think the sliding/tunneling method of lead-belay is unsafe? DAV actually teaches this as the Standart method.

GoodLuck-rhtb

Hi, new to trad here...in what situation do you use 2 ropes? Are you belaying 2 climbers at the same time? Thanks

uttley

At 3:34 in the video it shows the rope being aligned on the gate side of the carabiner while belaying. I was always taught to align the rope on the spline side of the carabiner as it was generally a safer method. Has this changed? Thanks

davidgiampietro