How to fix a jumpy scroll wheel on your mouse for free - TTC encoder cleaning with full disassembly

Have you ever had the annoying problem where you try to scroll with your mouse wheel, only to have your screen jump around up and down seemingly randomly?

The problem is in the encoder. I will show you how to clean that and get your mouse back in working order.

Connect with us on social media!

#APHNetworks #Tutorial #Mouse

[adamreingold]

This worked for my Logitech G703. Awesome video. Ended up purchasing a really cool tool kit to take it apart by a company called IFIXIT instead of having to buy a new mouse. Would highly recommend for projects like this.

[camrodam]

Excellent instructions, and detailed photos for each step, many thanks!

I did not have a heat gun, but i just put my mouse on the *outside* of a waffle iron while it was heating up, worked to remove the stickers without violence.

Same for the encoder component within: mine was soldered in place so I couldn't remove it, but just by adding a drop or two of rubbing alcohol on it, and then "scrolling" until I could hear and feel the clicks get clearer it got much better. You may need to wait for the alcohol to evaporate a bit before you actually see any movement: mine was not working for a minute or so while adding alcohol.

My testing method was simply: test it while its still in pieces using just the scroll components [I kept all electronics connected during disassembly]. Then you can see the improvement without needing to disassemble again if it didnt work enough / needed more alcohol.

[bydk]

Thanks for putting this online! We've gone through several mice at work/home with this issue, so it has been costing us a good amount of money in repeatedly replacing business/gaming mice.

[levisanvictores]

I bought a used wireless battery operated vetical mouse. It was jumping and has no USB receiver. I had a broken mouse with a 2.4GHz frequency. I uninstalled and reinstalled the driver. Then, it recognized my mouse because they are both running at 2.4GHz. I fixed the jumping scroll butting by spraying isopropyl alcohol and had it rested for few seconds. I did not rub anything with a soft bristle brush. Tested it and no more "teleporting" scroll. Next I fixed is the forward and backward button. I fixed it by reallining the ribbon wire. They seemed to be not touching each end. Secured it and no more problem. Now it works like brand new. Im here in the Philippines. I bought this first at $1.23. Usually, this cost $3.50 for wired and double for wireless. I feel happy I can be more productive at work. Saved me money. Thanks for the tutorial.

[btarb]

Great video. The encoder in the evga x15 used melted plastic rivets/studs that you had to cut off (instead of bending metal plates like yours). Otherwise, it was basically the same thing. With how much grime was in there it makes me wonder if it wasn't some kind of oil/grease from manufacturing that smears around.

[groszi]

It helped me to fix my expensive steelseries gamer mouse! Thank you for sharing the video. It was a bit more complicated to remove and dismount the encoder, because it was soldered to the base board.

[mantu]

Just one word of thanks not enough for your help its almost three years back my wife given me tecknet mouse on my birthday for the first two years it was working fine after that scroll jumping issue came but today i thought to repair it and I have successfully repaired it after following your instructions Kudos to your help still god is there in the form this help this is not about the money its all about the memories associated with this mouse... 🥰🥰🥰🤩🤩🤩🤗🤗

[colonel-halk]

Fast, Easy and straightforward guide. Awsome work.
Thank you this helped save my ROG Spatha mouse. My encoder was soldered onto the board so I could not remove it, but a little bend in the legs allowed me to disassamble and clean it.

[ElKudesnitsa]

Thanks! A was afraid to disassemble encoder, but video showed me that this is completely safe procedure. I also recommend to add a tiny amount of silicone lubricant after assembling encoder back together.

[izaanaslam]

Thanks! This helped my ROCCAT Kone Pro a lot. I didn't really have the same problem, it was just that the wheel wasn't properly connected to the TCC encoder. I reconnected it and now its fine.

[michaelelkin]

Thank you this helped save my mouse. My encoder was soldered onto the board so I could not remove it, but a little robing alcohol around the connector was enough to restore normal functionality.

[Oohcnap]

Thanks for this! It's been a struggle looking for a fix. Buying a new mouse is outside my budget.
Mine was pretty sketchy since the encoder is soldered straight onto the board on a Razer Naga X, but a couple less than recommended bends to disassemble the encoder did the trick. And boy did the contacts need some cleaning.

[Parazeta]

You saved my ROG Gladius II with your video. Thank you!! <3

[hariscannas]

Perfect solution, thanks for sharing. Issue plagued my 5-year old steelseries sensei, but now it feels brand new

[nObOdyby]

Thank you!

My 4 months old Roccat Kone XP Air was doing the same thing. The worst was for writing, God I can't remember the number of times I nearly through that mouse against a fragging wall.


Removing the few strands of fibers was easy enough, a bit of cleaning contact spray from FACOM (I am from France, so I have no idea what the equivalents are in other countries) and voila; It works properly again! (For those who want to do the same; be careful not to damage the Teflon Pads, they can be quite fragile. And do not lose the screws!) 😃

[batinimagus]

Thank you so much!
I was finally able to fix the jumpy scroll. Saved me a good amount of money, thank you again!

[seanchai]

Hi! Super useful video! It worked for my logi mouse but for some reason I can't remove the lid off off my Roccat Kone Pro Air, I did remove all of the 4 screws, but something was holding it together near the usb c port.... How can I solve this?

[MrGerryLloyd]

In the HP design: If you carefully lift the four metal tabs and force the encoder body over slightly, you can get the potentiometer's tiny wheel out with tweezers. Then clean surfaces with aftershave on q-tip and reassemble, pushing the metal tabs back down.

[Pazaluz]

Thanks a bunch for your tutorial! fixed my old Steelseries sensei 310 ^^

[greatwolf.]

I'm trying to do this on my OrochiV2, it uses a 2-tab TTC encoder with 2 extra non-conductive legs soldered to the PCB. How do I get the outer metal shell off? I can't seem to pry it using a flathead precision screwdriver.