Make Your Own Beams out of 2x12's

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Hi is it ok to use green lumber of a solid beam from sawmill for load bearing? And which type of wood is beast pin oak, regular oak, maple, cherry, pine or and other suggestions?

macp
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If you want to do a complex glue-up, Start with 2 center boards; cut 2- 2x8's to 1 1/2 x 7, glue and screw together for the beam core. Cut 2- 2x8's into a trapezoid 3" on the top and 6" on the bottom. A 45 degree angle cut; glue and screw to the top and bottom of the core. From 2- 2x12 cut trapezoids 10" on the bottom and 7" on top again 45 degrees. Glue and screw to the sides of the core. Now you have a 6x10 beam with the visible seams in the corners. From a distance invisible seams, if all your cuts are precision. Stronger than a rough cut 6x10; but what a lot of work. The old guy Bert

MrScoresby
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Greetings, when you say “wood glue, ” are you referring to a heavy duty construction adhesive. So when you (ie BarnGeek) manufacture this 4 ply beam, you exclude the use of fasteners? No pegs or anything?

AFFarms
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Here in Canada lumber over 6" then jumps to 3/4" removed. 6" becomes 5.5", 8" becomes 7.25"

mixmastermyke
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beams have been made by nailed lumber for years, even 3 2x8's in a garage. Beams were also above an attic floor at one house. It's fairly much a wall, with 2 or 3 rows of 2x12's, both sides. So, in a house built in the 70's, or 60's, the great room, had the beam in the attic ceiling. (So, about 4 or 6 2x12's, with 2x4 studs, that went down and secured the ceiling joists.

normbograham
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Using green lumber want to sawmill a 20' beam what lumber should use

joemommone
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45 degree your edges, to join the three exposed sides of your beam if using a thicker material. If using a glued on veneer you don’t have as big a problem with your edges, make sure your beam is free of any waving, the veneer might highlight any imperfections in the surface of the beam. As veneer is usually to thin to correct this after application. Many beautiful veneer wood verities are available. Can’t hide it, highlight it!!!

jerrystrader
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You can stain (semi opaque) or paint them too, that will help to hide the seams

Diycanada
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I'm building a 35 ft beam using 2by 12s and putting a 1/4 inch piece of metal inside welded together every 8 ft, glued and bolts every 14 inches all the way across. What do you think?

rockeygibson
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so if u have a sawmill and a log, u could just cut out a 6x12 beam from that?

viisteist
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Question is will it be Strong /Stronger enough..????

zourdiesel
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....Here's what we Pressure laminate a beam, and then box it in with mitered edges on rough cut hardwood it looks the same and performs much better than a beam. Rules, Use #1 lumber larger that the dimensions of your beam requirements in height of course. But huge spans just aren't safely possible using nominal dimension lumber without central support... which is why LVL exists. To clear large spans and meet load specs, without central support.

mikeallen
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A 2x12 is 11&1/4" a 2x10 is is 9&1/4. Sorry but it does make a difference when laying out.

robertwehmeyer
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Howdie how many 2x12, s are laminated 2 and half inche, s thick and good do i need to put together on 15 ft span 15 by 15 on the farm ther is no inspection, s out here cause no Insurance build close to the rules out here on the up right, s how many do i need to put together to hold the beam up ther 2x8, s for the rafter, s it, s lean too 12ft at one end and 8ft at other 16 in centre, s on bracket, s at the main wall out side wall is on 8x8 beam to hold the rafter, s hope to here from ya soon thks again Farmer

farmer
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I need a beam 26 1/2ft. long what's the longest 2x12 they make?

marcos
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Just use steel
Wood sucks squirrel nuts 🥜

Mr.SuperDuper-idk