How to Replace the Rear Main Seal in a Ford 289 or 302

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What happens when you go to replace the rear main seal on your Ford 289 or 302 and you find out it's the original Rope Seal?
First, you panic a little. Then, you realize this is doable and you move forward.
Using either a Sneaky Pete or a long wood screw, thread it up inside the old seal and pull it out. You may need to use some leverage, like using a hammer and a piece of wood and pry out the screw. It may sound bad but it works, trust me. :)

Oil Pan: Stock size, 5 qts, part number SUM-G3520B, from Summit Racing

The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a factory V8 and C4 transmission.

Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 17.

Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
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#Mustang
#1966
#Fastback
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I greatly admire your willingness to attempt to fix anything on a car. You are an inspiration to just give it a try in life.

keepingupwiththejones
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Thank you my brother from another mother 👏👏👏 min is a 289 from 1965 in a 1964 econoline ford van. My rear main seal went out and sprayed oil all over the exhaust pipes making me look like a smoke bomb from hell. Thank you for this video because I live in the boon docks with nobody to help in any way 👍🏼

williamjsingleton
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Hey, a rear main seal video from Andy, is this Deja Vu or what?!? Sorry about those bolt problems, so frustrating. But you always keep your cool. And the worn bearings - that’s what I ran into when I did mine last month. I was so disheartened to see that copper but again you kept your cool! Inspiring! Thanks as usual for another great vid!!!

randypascarella
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Thanks for putting all the info of what you ended up using in the description. Keep up the hard work.

dannydinwin
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Every time I feel burned out of making videos, I'm going to watch this to get pumped up from the music 🤣🤣🤣
Oh and that sucks with all the broken bolts! This is why I don't quote jobs out!

AlfsMustangGarage
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Thank you. A good tutorial. This will help with my Honda B20Z Oil Pan & gasket replacement.

howardblasingame
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Very informative video, the pin that caused your leak was originally to hold the old style rope seal in place. Take it out for today’s seals.

ruedibartholdi
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Great job making the video and tutorial, I didn't think you could replace the rear main rope seal with Felpro 2 piece main seals without dropping the crankshaft. I always used Felpro rear main seals and gaskets when I rebuilt my 289 engine in my 1965 Mustang Fastback, and my Mexican block 302 engine in my 1966 Mustang Fastback, but now I wonder if I may have installed the rear main seal backwards by mistake. The Felpro oil pan gaskets use to be cork, I am glad they changed the material to the new gasket style, looks like it is easier to install.

josemedeiros
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Another great video. Lighting, camera angles, audio and instructions all excellent. I can't believe how calm you seemed to be when those cross member bolts broke. Maybe you were swearing like a drunk sailor off camera. I know I would have been. Anyway...thanks for making the video and great job as usual. I just might attempt this too.

brianoneil
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I tore into mine yesterday after watching your videos and reading the forums. Less than 2 hours to take it apart, at least 3 hours to get the upper half of the old rope seal out. It was indeed essential to spin the crank while pulling on a screw t threaded into the seal. I didn’t lube the new upper seal enough and shaved some of the rubber off the backside. It probably would have been fine, but bought a new one and dipped it in STP and filed the sharp edge of the block a little. It slid in smoothly. Another 5 or 6 hours to reassemble but that included cleaning and painting the oil pan. The oil pan has been double gasket-ed at both ends, so I’m curious to see if that warped it enough to cause an issue. Thanks for the great video!

brandongeddes
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great video brother, i have to change my rear seal on my big block Charger and i was worried about it .

MOPARMuscleLEBANON
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You are very knowledgeable. I am curious how did you learn to repair cars? Did you work with your Dad on cars growing up like many of us ..go to tech school or just self taught? Anyway I am impressed with your know how...keep the great videos going it sure helps us Mustangers!!

russelluemura
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About to do this. Ooof. Been procrastinating. It's hot outside 😂

RiggsGarage
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Well here I am again. I'm really uncomfortable with the oil pressure that I'm running. The 84 in a cold start and 40 at warm idol is fine. But the 10 psi for every thousand RPM I am doubling. Need to pull the oil pan and see what pump I have. You made disconnecting the idler arm look a lot easier than it was. I had to use a 4 lb 18 inch handle sledge hammer to drive it down like you showed in the video. Hopefully when I pull the Canton 9 quart oil pan there is a crazy high pressure pump in there and I can replace it with a high-volume or just standard pump.

BPattB
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Great video. Recently replaced this seal on my 289 (1968). Not quite as easy as your experience. Had to loosen all main caps and turn the crank to get the (lubed) seal into place. Not fun!

RScesium
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Maybe I missed it but do you put the holding pin back after the cap is installed? (The pin the prevents spin)

mcglothlenchris
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Good video, very helpful. Wondering why you chose to disconnect the idler arm where you did? Wouldn't it be easier to tackle the two bolts holding the bracket instead of the bushing?

lemonke
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I just replaced the oil pan and seal before watching this video for the rear main and now I'm gonna take the pan back off 😅

ItsJustRandy
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These rear main seals are so common to leak on these engines. Hopefully it seals up good for you! Mine is leaking. I may go after it one day... or just watch the oil level 🤣

SmackeysGarage
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Another great video!!!
Andy
Love the thrust wheels, can u share where u got them please.
Thx for all the replies
Jim ATL
68 stang coupe

jamesgalluzzo