How to Apply Polycrylic and Polyurethane (Like a PRO!)

Using polycrylic or polyurethane is an easy way to give your surfaces a durable, high quality finish. Learn how to apply poly products like a pro and avoid beginner mistakes!

Affiliate links to products used in this video:
#Polycrylic #Polyurethane #Minwax

[jimmyjames]

Hi Melissa I'm enjoying your channel projects! Just wanted to share a tip I learned the hard way years ago. Make sure you check that your tack cloth is oil or wax free when using water base polycrylic. Nasty bubbles may appear in the finish because an oily residue left on the surface from a tack cloth that will react with the water based poly. I never had a problem with a tack cloth and oil based polyurethane before. If tack cloths package doesn't indicate oil free, then I use a very very damp paper towel from water or a light brush to remove the dust between coats when using polycrylic. Bubbles in poly can dive anyone bonkers so I wanted to share that :)

[ryanecashpeeples]

THANK YOU so much for this! I’d tried brushes, sponges, even a sock on my hand. This is the best it’s looked! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

[R_a_d_e_n]

I use a brush. No air bubbles to mess around with after. Self levels. Nice smooth finish. Just need to sand properly in-between coats.

[susannahfunk]

I’ve found that rolling the polycrylic in sections then using a foam brush covered with the nylon bootie LIGHTLY BRUSH in one continuous stroke over the rolled section. This will eliminate bubbles. Working in sections of rolling then brushing (immediately after rolling) insures a smooth coat. My stained table top looks beautiful, bubble free and smooth!

[KissedOrBitten]

I have been getting bubbles when I would do this because of a sponge or hairs because of the brush. A roller is a great idea! Thank you for everything you do 🙏👍

[Fannylynn]

Thank you. Going to use your methods..feel much more confident!

[TheGreatConstantini]

I have a love hate relationship with polycrylic. I love that it cleans up easy and tends to hold its opacity quite well. I hate that it is prone to bubbles. But from my experience there are several ways to get the best results. First use a very soft synthetic highest quality brush. It is a suspension so stirring is necessary but you need to be so gentle as to barely see it moving or bubble on the way. Next apply to brush minimally do not load the brush. Use indirect lighting to see the surface and coverage. Brush it on as perpendicular to the surface and with no hand pressure. You don’t want to drag it along the surface like paint. It should feel like you are barely holding the brush. Lastly any small bubbles can be removed with a safety pin tip. Last tip clean your brushes with Murphy’s oil soap. Happy finishing

[kylemoran]

I know this is 3 years too late but if it helps someone, well, it'll be worth it !
Humidity play's a huge factor in you getting a nice finish or not... Always read the label for temperature and humidity levels acceptable.
Ghosting, or white streaks can appear in your finish, also bubbling and cracking can occur. I've built many guitars using both Polyies and Lacquer finishes, and have learned to listen to the manufactures advice when applying. I could of saved a lot of time and $$$$

[brett]

Excellent videos. You explain the steps very well.

[DanniMunro]

Minnesotan here who’s watched soooo many of your videos, I now feel like we are friends😂 my polycrylic (on 2nd coat) is looking super patchy, following your awesome instructions... will this clear up? Ideas on why or how to fix? Of course my 1st project is an 84”x42” table so perhaps I need a different application process due to fast dry time? Ugh, so worried all the sanding/shellack prime/sanding/chalk painting will be for naught 🤞🏻We love your channel🙌you are what this world needs more of!

[garrettguitar]

I have not had good results at all with bristle brushing, foam brushing or rolling, or wiping Polycrylic. It always looks like crap for me.
But spraying -- that's where I can get it to look awesome!!!
One tip I did learn from someone here on YT is to really stir the polycrylic well -- like 5 to 10 minutes this YT'ber said. Now, I don't do that long, but I do stir for between 1 and 2 minutes first and have great results spraying that mix.
For anyone who's interested in the spraying "howto", I typically spray the Polycrylic as is (not thinned) in an HVLP sprayer with a 1.4 mm nozzle @ 30 psi. Flow is about 1.5 turns out from fully closed. Atomization pressure is maybe a 1/4 turn off from fully open. Fan pattern is about 3.5 inches. This produces a very fine mist. I'll overlap about 75% of each pass, and when I'm done, the whole thing dries within 3 to 10 min depending upon how much I lingered with my passes. I'll do usually 3 coats and sand with 600 to 800 grit sandpaper in between (the recommended 220 is way too aggressive). The result is a very smooth and uniform surface after each coat, but especially after that third one.

[iniestabernal]

I want to say thanks 🙏, because I was confused with this two products

[magnum]

You are such a cutie, I love your sweet personality, energy and work ethic. Here's some tips: Use the roller to apply your product to a surface (poly, paint etc), then 'back-brush' with a high-quality brush to smooth and pick up drips, especially around spindles, corners and sides. I literally have a detail roller (foam or hair) in one hand and my brush in the other when I start out doing this type of application. I'd allow a longer dry time to assure the corners are cured before sanding - 24 hrs with a urethane and 3-6 hrs with an acrylic, in most cases. And with finish trim like a handrail, I would recommend using a sanding sponge for a more even and detail surface prep. You'll have much better control and feel for the pressure and area you are sanding when using a sponge - that's the thin, pliable-type sponge with foam on one side for your fingers to grip and the abrasive on the other side, not the sanding 'block' when doing detail trim and contours. Plus, the sponge will protect your pretty hands better. Be careful that your 'tack cloth' isn't loaded with too much beeswax or even sap, and leaves a residue. I've gone to a lightly damp wiping cloth or microfiber for most of my acrylic (water-based) dust/clean prep, and using compressed air for the initial blow-off of dust. If painting with oils or lacquer, I'll use denatured alcohol or thinner as a cleaning wipe, too. Best of luck!

[JavaJazzMusic]

Very nice, you make it look so simple... thanks again Melissa and keep them coming!

[kevinperez.]

Thanks for the explanation, I sprayed polyurethane on a counter top… but this oil base material is better rolled on. I should have used lacquer if I was to use a pump. Anyway preciate you now I’ll just sand and roll the 3rd coat and call it done.

[SmartHomeImprovementTv]

Hi-. I saw you do a video on using epoxy for a kitchen countertop... And, why that didn't work so well.
But- on the epoxy, you used heat to get rid of epoxy bubbles. I wonder if heat would get rid of poly bubbles?? -hmmm

[HomeKitchenCurry]

amazing, , , keep it up, god bless you

[ofeliavazquez-delgadillo]

Thanks one of the best videos I've seen.

[MendandMake]

Good good video. Thank you about to coat a little farmhouse bed. This will help

[tradergirl]

I really dislike tact cloth!! it's sticky residue gets in the way of my life. sticks to my hands and leaves marks all over especially on chalk paint. I've had to resend too many times and ive learned my lesson that stuff isn't my friend.. 😊 I'm learning about poly, what I've learned is that adding a touch of the paint color you used to the poly and mix well the final finish is much better especially on dark color paints the poly leaves a haze after a couple coats. and also water based poly dries so fast it barely has time to level when using a roller method. but im with you I believe this method works great in certain environments. I don't think this would be an option in the hot dry states as it just dries too fast.