How To Apply A Water Based Finish - Finishing 001

Water based finishes can be a little tricky to apply. They dry fast which means you have to apply them fast. Check out how I apply them in my bi-weekly finishing how-to video.

Supplies used in this video (Affiliate links below help support this channel)

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Sean Walker
PO Box 1502
Versailles, KY 40383

[michelebarnes]

I love it when an instructor explains WHY you need this technique. Thank you for your kindness.

[kirkgud]

after applying 10 coats and buying 3 different expensive brushes and not getting the smooth surface I was looking for on a table I made, I tried the foam brush, perfection finally, I didn't think it could be that easy, thanks for the info

[southparkgdp]

For large surfaces like desks. Do what you normally do for your foundational coats. This is for your FINAL finish. Make a 50/50 Poly/Water mix and mix well. Dip a cloth into the mix and spread it liberally over the surface. Make sure everything is covered evenly. Then take the cloth and make continuous, end-to-end strokes with the grain. Make sure it looks good in reflected light. Go around and clean up the edges and look for any drips or pooling areas. It will dry very fast and it will be very smooth. No further sanding should be required.

[Babyjohn]

The way you explained the process was clear and easy to follow. You have a new subscriber.😃👍

[HeRacesTheSun]

Good info! Tip; You should be stirring liquid from top to bottom with an arc motion, bringing what's on the bottom to the top. Not simply stirring in a circle like he's doing here, it doesn't exchange liquids form top to bottom. Like mixing settled orange juice, the solids are settled on the bottom, need to turn container upside down a few times for proper mixing, not just swish side to side. Same thing applies to all liquids like this that need stirring, bottom to top mixing, not just a circle stir that won't intermix what's on the bottom with what's on the top.

[MrJohnnyboyrebel]

I've also had great success applying water-borne ploy using my HVLP sprayer. The finish can be slightly thinned and easily sprayed on. I got a factory refurb HVLP for under $50 and it works well.

[InterWebGuy]

Great demo. I've been very satisfied with the Minwax clear coat. As you said just don't grind the hell out of the finish when you're sanding between coats.

[SidersRemixed]

At the end, do you simply buff it with a white 3m scotch brite pad? Or do you use some sort of wax with it?

[andreacarr]

I loved your video- it was just what I was looking for- a simple example shown with partial boards vs. a lengthy video time lapsed of someone doing w/ a whole project. Good info, condensed & great clarity. Thank you!

[ambarrios]

Great video! Excellent job providing details and explanations. This was all very helpful!

[anat]

And can you use this over painted wood?

[johnc]

I just painted my kitchen cabinets. For the interior shelving (which I painted as well with white latex paint) what do you recommend to fortify up the surface for all the heavy traffic that they’ll be enduring? I’ve read oil based polys may ‘yellow up’ the white paint over time

[rw]

I am looking to use the polycrylic. Looks like it brought out the natural color of the wood. It went for a dull light brown to a really nice looking brownish red rich color. Am I seeing that correctly.?

[brianpeterson]

Applying poly with a foam brush? Straining it before applying? Deadly. Poly turns out bubbly when any air is introduced into the liquid while it's being applied. You need to use a very high quality brush with thick bristles, soak it in water (if you're using water-based, mineral spirits if using oil based) to take out air from the brush, and then apply the poly extremely slowly and deliberately with long, minimal brush strokes.

[antiquevintageworlds]

Thanks for this straight forward video, very helpful!

[nature]

Thank you I am at the point on dresser drawers and your video helped me make my decision.

[MichaelBorne-rhco]

I installed a new entry back door, at the back of the house. It had 3 pieces of trim around the door/casing, the trim was prob cheapest pine door casing trim Lowes or HD had 20 yrs ago. It looked good though, held up over the yrs. It had stain and some type of clear over that. Anyway, the pieces were damaged when removing them and had to go buy 3 sticks of door/window casing trim from Lowes for replacement.



The trim is raw pine, about 8 bucks for 7' sticks. I stained them with minwax "cognac" color stain. They look good, now I need to clear that and wondered if I should just use the water polycrylic. Or is it best to use oil based polyurethane? Don't forget, the trim is cheap box store pine. I've never stained door trim pieces before, sort of worried about the clear now because the 3 pieces I stained look pretty good and I def don't want to have to do any of it again because I screw up the clear coating!


Hey, does anybody ever just buy a can of poly in the aerosol cans? And just spray it on things like the trim I did?? Can I just do that? Thanks for the video!

[christinakinne]

Thank You for making that sweet and simple!

[bobleeswoodshop]

I like the water base finish the easy clean up and less smells inside the house .regards Bob Lee

[nkel]

what was the first finish @ 1:00 ? and the poly...what use, exterior or interior use? sm for first application?