Making 18th century Stays for the Ideal Body Shape : Historical Undergarments

Where do you start with a new pair of stays when it's been years and nothing fits any more? I'm sizing up my old pattern and altering it to a slightly different style to start this massive project. I want to stick with the 1780s silhouette, but a new challenge is in order! The museum extant that I chose for inspiration has a complex structure and shape that I am incredibly curious to try out.

While sewing stays and corsets can be daunting projects, taking the process in smaller steps can break down the difficult parts. This week we're looking at the history and basic lines of stays to see how connected the various styles and eras actually are, before adjusting the pattern and assembling supplies. With a little bit of making buckram in the middle.

Supplies

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00:00 History
03:43 Diagrams & Designs
08:39 Sizing Up
10:46 Style & Fit
17:10 Supplies

[bethsvist]

Word of warning regarding linen tape: If I am not mistaken, I recently saw a Facebook post by Wm Booth & Draper warning it's been discontinued and they & Burnley & Trowbridge had bought up all the stock they could and were already running low on some widths. So it may not be so easy and cheap to acquire anymore!

[KitOfTheWeirdWoods]

I love the look of stays as a garment, they look so comfy and pretty

[ariadnew]

A note about kirtles - I was very skeptical about their efficacy as bust support as a 34DD. Then I made a side-lacing kirtle out of coat-weight wool, and all my doubts went away. I was initially wearing a linen side-lacing "bra" that I made under it, and that was actually too much. Dunno how historically accurate my kirtle is, but it sure does provide bust support.

[theexchipmunk]

One added point to making buckram. From the things people like Mark Wallis and Neal Hurst share, 18th century buckram, if bought ready made, was calendered. Fed thrugh hot rolleres under pressure supposedly, to copress it and really get it to bind and the gum deep into the fibres. So what they reccomend is to let it dry till still a bit moist, just a little tacky but nothing coming of it, then iron it with an iron on a hot setting (ading some bakeing paper or other stuff as a sperating layer to not ruin the iron) till it´s completely dry. I have found that this really does change the durability and quality of the buckram a bit. It´s less prone to loose it´s stiffness after more prolonged wear and easier to get back into shape when pressing.

[TealCheetah]

The loss of that fitting footage for AD is an absolute shame. Stays are a beast for many sewists and I personally haven't found much helpful fitting info. Im looking forward to your future vids on the topic.

[erin]

One of my favorite things about all your videos is how well-researched they are. It would be so helpful if you could show us your process! Where do you look to find some of these fantastic articles, advertisements, fashion plates, etc? How do you determine the usefulness of an article to the particular topic you're researching? Do you have any tips for searching a database instead of getting lost inside it? (That's never happened to me before ;D) Thanks for all the quality you deliver on this platform; I appreciate it!

[traceej]

OMG I'm so happy you're doing a video series on this! I have done one mock up and a final pair but the fit and length are a bit off. I just recently altered my paper pattern for a more custom fit so this is my 3rd round but I learn that's how sewing is. Ill be following along with this series very closely to help guide me! Thanks again! 😊

[gigiiv]

Your timing is impeccable. I just started trying to resize a 18th century stays pattern from a book last week. I am of course not standard sized with my swayback. I have been pulling out hair in frustrating trying to figure out how to account of that but honestly, like you, I just need to do it once and go from there. Thanks for the reminder that sometimes you just gotta get out of the planning stage.

[susanhaney]

Thank you! I am just starting to make a Rev War ensemble for 2026 so this series is perfect!

[brittanyh]

Thanks for talking through the construction and tailoring to your body - I hadn't encountered that kind of explanation before and it was really interesting! Very much looking forward to the fitting series!

[christinanieto]

Glad you are happy and well. I also have a child since your videos stopped. Life keeps flying by. Wishing you continued joy.

[kirstenpaff]

I am currently working on a pair of 1780s stays as well, though I have the feeling yours will be a lot nicer than mine. I working off of the Simplicity 8162 pattern. Unfortunately, I think my body changed quite a bit since I made the cardboard mock-up (thanks work stress) and now the stays are too big (they pretty much lace shut). A warning to anyone making this pattern, the measurement guide they give is a lie. You will probably need to go 2 or more sizes smaller than what is recommended for your waist measurement. I also find that the pattern is way too high under the arm and needs to be trimmed down at least half an inch to avoid poking.

[katewill]

Woot!! 🎉 Looking forward to this series.

[beckstheimpatient]

This is going to be so awesome! I can't wait for the next part. And on a different topic, it's fantastic how our bodies change as we age! And I'm not saying that like it's a bad thing, we go from one type of beauty to another, like an evolving pokemon with a profound understanding of its own mortality and its own strengths.

[DancingOnGlass]

I'm sick of bras. I'm starting to think a shorter stay would be exactly what I've been stating I needed instead. Thank you for posting this, I makes me think maybe of testing it out. Thank you a billion for your in depth details, research and such. It really is important and helpful.

[emmaegtberts]

I heard you talk about your video for drafting stays and i am STOKED! i literally can't wait to see that coming. I love drafting, but stays and corsetry are not part of my fashion training. Great work!

[arthurzackaryabrin]

Oh my gods I am finally understanding how to make stays now. It was a big question mark for me for ages and now I actually feel like I would be able to pattern a pair that would fit me well!! Thank you!! I'm really looking forward to your future videos on Stays!!!

[lazyperfectionist]

It's funny how you released a video on making stays at a time where I'm about to start making a pair of stays for the first time, I'll be taking a lot of notes

[stephaniemiller]

I am thrilled for this series. This might become my new favorite video series! (Sorry Winnifred)

[itwasagoodideaatthetime]

I love how you're getting back to your You Tube sewing roots with this video.