Another Simple Solution To A Common Problem Created By Stair Builders - Deck Nosing Or No Nosing

preview_player
Показать описание
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

nosing is rarely the issue. Most of the time it is a problem with unequal rises either at the top or bottom step.

rickfoley
Автор

As a ICC building inspector I approve the video. We have many DYI projects in my state and this will certainly save them time and money. We charge $150 for Rejected Inspections in our City.

DB-cxcb
Автор

Thank you! The guys I hired to build my deck thirty(!) years ago walked off the job without doing the I 'knocked them out' one weekend. They've worked AND lasted, but with not a single rise or run equal to another, now I know why everybody's always tripped walking up or down them!

Jeph
Автор

I'm no carpenter, not a joke. However, I have a friend who is and he builds stairs for himself with 5" risers. His preference for this dimension is due to having to wear braces on his legs due to a degenerative bone disease. I have neuropathy and have had knee surgery. At 74, I don't anticipate any improvement. Once I walked up his stairs it took all strain off my knees and descending the stairs with my numbness was made easier. I realize that this extends the staircase; but where feasible it is a great help to those with mobility issues. Also, on site stairs, dock stairs and the like it makes carrying stuff up and down easier and I feel its safer.

howardhughes
Автор

Thank you for sharing.👍🏼
Following code is basic instruction in apprentice training starting with forms and foundations. Our MLP's (manipulative lesson plan) says it on every page. By the time you get to framing, it is burned in your brain simply because code will vary and even drawings can illustrate something that won't pass where you are. I picked up as good of workers habits as I could in my union JATC training. I enjoyed this topic you posted 👍🏼

raylarkin
Автор

Thanks for the video. I dont like the combination of a nosing with verticals behind the treads. Wearers of sandals are more likely to catch the nosing with the sandal end, especially looser types. No back is more common in Australia, especially where exposed to weather.

treefarm
Автор

Stair nosing are actually a safety item when descending stairs as they prevent heel clip on the riser. If you’re going to be a carpenter be a carpenter put a nosing on it.

joes
Автор

On the subject of trip hazards: A few years ago, we moved into a rental home with a completely whacked set of (only TWO!) steps from the ground to the top of the deck. The first step from the ground had a 4X4 partially embedded in the ground holding up the risers from the dirt. the rise was about 9 inches from the ground to the first step. the next step was about 6 or 7 inches (per manufacturing guidelines), and the rise to the deck from there was at least 8 inches. VERY DISCONCERTING as you walk up the steps. I replaced the two-riser assembly with a three-riser assembly and firmly attached the riser assembly to the deck at the same RISE as the steps had, and ensured the bottom step started from the same point in space as the rises each ascended. In other words: this little two-step assembly had THREE different rises from ground to deck-- and, trust me, this was far and away more trip-worthy than any variation in tread width!

crustycurmudgeon
Автор

I like bumping it up one more riser making the top tread flush with the top of the deck. It finishes really nice.

TheBestYouthWrestlingVideos
Автор

We have a stairway with no nosing. It’s ugly and covered with carpet. I would love a video describing how to install good quality wooden treads, back walls AND nosing, without rebuilding the entire stairway. I agree completely; each step MUST be the same. Add new decking on top of the first step and you have now made a deeper step. This is a project I have longed to do. A good video on what NOT to do would be helpful.

JSCRocketScientist
Автор

recently saw an episode of This Old House where they rebuilt a staircase for someone with an artificial leg. The tread nose is something older people catch their foot on, so they slanted the riser to gain tread width but eliminated the nose. The whole idea here was to allow reusing the railings and balusters so there was minimal change to the look of the older home.

rupe
Автор

My reading of the "code" is that the variation in elevation - tread to tread - cannot exceed 3/8". I don't know if that also applies to the depth of the tread. However, the rationale for stairs is that by the time that a user has made the second step, the mind has calculated the rise and run and expects that ratio to continue. So, if the measurements change, the mind can become confused and the user may trip.

wrdennig
Автор

Stairs without nosing are ok for barns. All nosings from top to bottom should line up. Your foot can feel a 1/4 " difference in rise.

chrismalchoff
Автор

I have found that six inch riser makes much easier for all to transverse. A one inch lip or overhang on the tread also makes an easier climb. Yes, this is good advice that only the experienced builder would

tribulationcoming
Автор

Oh yeah bring back memories when I started back in the early 80s. Got to pay attention n double check all measurements. You are so correct. Thanks bruh

CarlosSanchez-bgwf
Автор

As one fellow already said, the most serious problem is uneven rises. Where I live, a stair must have no more than one eigth of an inch difference in rises (including landings and floor covering) or fail inspection. Your nose issue is easy to fix. Also like someone else already said, fix it! Better yet, read the Building Code stair requirements before building your stairs. It really is easy to understand and is online. Also, there are strict requirements for "grabable" railing requirements and heights and when needed on both sides and when not. Read the bldg code.

jerryweigl
Автор

On my deck (16’x48’) I have 2 sets of stairs. One is in the middle and one on the corner. The deck is 18” off the ground. The middle stair has 2 steps, 9” rise. The corner stairs has 3 steps, 6” rise. I built this in 2004. Code in our area is a maximum of 7 3/4” rise. The three step staircase has a railing, the 2 step does not. When I built this Twenty years ago that was no problem, Today I’m 76 years old and now I can’t use the middle stairs, but have no problem with the corner stairs, yes the railing helps, but so does the stair height. Now I understand the code……Thanks…Jim
PS…..on my laundry list is a new 3 step stair case in the middle with railing.

jimpie
Автор

Here’s the herring bone, the 11” is because we use 5/4” or 2”x 6” lumber, the most accepted way to build is cut stringer 10” to get 1” nosing or 1 3/4 “ for 3/4” riser, which the stair tread is 11” to the riser not the front of above stair, in your example you’d have to rip 1” off of a 2x6?

markhuru
Автор

A review of the building code a couple of years ago, on the three sets of stairs on my neighbor's deck he was building, revealed the expression of keeping any stair system "consistent" throughout. The trip hazard occurs when there is an inconsistency and the brain needs it to be consistent to prevent a destabilizing effect, either catching a toe, the heel sliding off or a stumbling up or down from a variance in the height. The nosing in this video is well pointed out as an inconsistency. The 7-11 rule shows that it is the safest overall, based on the brain science and the 18 inch overal requirement. All three of his sets violated the consistency principle, unfortunately.

mikegrant
Автор

As a taller guy I like the 11-7 in a set of steps compared to the 12-6. I don't like the 5" and 4" risers in parks / public areas, but I understand they are easier to traverse for the elderly.

spconrad