Tomato Trellis Options RANKED

Today we are ranking the outdoor and covered tomato trellis options.

We discuss: how to do the Florida weave, different ways to trellis tomatoes from above, different ways to trellis tomatoes outside, growing tomatoes on the ground, growing tomatoes in a tunnel, least expensive trellis options, how to trellis peppers and cucumbers, and more!

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[notillgrowers]

Hey all! Loads of great comments. I don't have time this week to get to them, but a couple themes: 1) the hook and wicket system that Neversink sells can help reduce stress on the tunnel and on the plants. I see no issues with that. The trellis part though is just the same QLIPR system (you can also use tomahooks etc). Will have some DIY hook and wicket content soon as well so 👀 . 2) I have not used cattle panels which is why I didn't include them. They're not cheap or light, but it is a one-time purchase so that will help make it affordable over time. If it works for you--awesome! And 3) tying off a string and training the plants is fine too but eventually, in a tunnel at least, you will run out of string and have to tie new string on. Not a big deal on a small scale but on a production scale would not be ideal (I tried it years ago). Thanks y'all!

[AnenLaylle]

I'm in South Carolina and I have probably the most bizarre tomato growing system I have ever seen. I basically break all the conventional rules because it works for my context. I can get a local potting mix that is certified organic for around $200 dollars a pallet, as the guy who owns the business is a buddy of mine. I fill around 200 three gallon buckets with said potting mix and set them in a field covered with black plastic mulch. I then use the Florida Weave system to trellis them. I plant them out way early, generally around late March and cover them with Agribon when they are still small in case for freak freezes. To put things in context, I already have small tomatoes on all my plants and it is April 21st. We get a big first flush of tomatoes by the first week of June, enough to where I make around $6-10 dollars per plant, with my overhead being around $2 dollars per plant. Then I terminate the crop. This is why I only use 3 gallon buckets. Everyone says 5 is the minimum you should use, but that is if you want a plant all season. I'm doing determinate tomatoes, getting the first wave, and then chopping. Otherwise disease will start to hit anyways, so what is the point?

We take the leftover potting mix, which is around 600 gallons, rejuvenate it with composted chicken manure, and then fill 60 ten gallon grow bags with the mix. We then plant 1 mini love watermelon in each grow bag and it is off to the races. The 60 mini love watermelons grow in the field that is covered in black plastic and we harvest them by the end of July. Then we empty all the pots, rejuvenate with both perlite (didn't use this first time) and more compost, and put it back into the original 200 3 gallon buckets. We then grow beans in the buckets. The beans finish in about mid-September. We empty all the bags, add more chicken compost, and refill the 200 3 gallon buckets. Then about mid-September I plant 200 Castle Dome broccoli plants (earliest heading broccoli that is dwarf) in each of the buckets. This is how you grow in containers for profit. The next spring I dump all the leftover potting mix on top of my beds and grow lettuce and leafy greens in those beds for a few seasons. You could keep refilling the buckets with a different crop if you want. It's like an infinite loop of potting mix. Works very well.

Wala.

[kristyscosmicgarden]

I love watching you on Sunday morning and I really LOVE your book. Thank you so much for being an excellent steward of Mother Earth and for all of the effort I know you put into to your videos. I’ve learned so much from you! Keep growing!!

[dianeladico]

Home gardener here. I have a permanent bed with a T-shaped trellis made of 16'x50" cattle panels. The 16' is the horizontal axis placed about 18-24" above the soil line so the top is around 6 feet tall. As the tomatoes grow I push the vines through the opening front to back/back to front. No tying. For the really tall ones I just let them ramble across the top of T.
One could use cattle panels or remesh panels or coils and attach them to T-posts 2' off the ground. This gives you 6' of height that's supported. The posts need to be secure but the panels/remesh are rigid and can extend above the posts. You will need to weave the plants through the holes but I only use every third hole or so (about 18") not back forth through each one. Weave is a generous term, I just shove them through but again, home gardener.
Cattle panels last forever, are $25 at Tractor Supply. Remesh panels are lighter and thinner but not plated so it's rusty. They both store flat and are so danged useful. Remesh rolls that are usually cut and used for individual cages can be rolled up at the end of the season for one fat roll instead of a bunch of separate ones. Basically it's one long fence that you weave the plants through. It's not for everyone but I thought it might help someone or spark an idea that works for you.

[katrinalikethehurricane]

I like to use cattle panels on t-posts...BUT, I have extra plants this year and no more cattle panels. I've never tried the Florida weave, but will be trying it this year. Thanks for the great explanation!

[denisehooper]

Great video. You can save time by not tying your tomatoes to the string. Lay the string in the planting hole and place tomato on top. Plant as usual. Now your string is secure and ready for trellising. Love watching your videos. So much great information and your personality makes them fun. Your book is on my wish list. Hope to purchase soon.

[MK-tioo]

I made a bunch of 'tomahooks' out of metal hangers that I cut and bent them used a huge roll of twine I bought to string them (this was years ago when they were more expensive and I was super cheap lol). That gave me something to do in the winter sitting by the fire (we don't have TV so we work on projects or read etc in the evenings.)

[rosehavenfarm]

Love your book, Thank you Farmer Jesse.

We do not market garden, we grow for ourselves, family, and friends. We grow our maters in a hoop house, and use paracord tied to the cross members above. The lower end we plant in the hole with the tomato start or the seed. As the plant grows, we wrap it around the paracord. Works fine for our small plantings of 6-12 plants. After the season, we cut off the vines, kind of roll up the paracord, and leave it tied to the cross members. We find the paracord lasts for about 3 or 4 seasons. One tip: do NOT use reflective paracord, b/c it'll look like hornworm in the UV light! Oy.

[theoraclesisl]

I was just telling my favorite greenhouse sales clerk that i wish someone would do a detailed trellesing video 😊
Thanks Jesse!

[bizzybee]

I grow my tomato plants on woven wire fences. I just tie the branches to the fence as they grow. I use drippers to water the plants and I space my plants 4 ft. apart. I mulch my plants heavily.
Since I don't till, I leave the fencing in place from year to year. I grow a lot of my vegetables on the fences.

[NickyBigatto]

Hey Jessie. Thank you for all your content man. I'm going to buy your book. I run Woodlot Farm in Robbinston, Maine. Come up to visit this season.
-Nicco

[BecomingVT]

As a new gardener, I appreciate all these tips down to the twine. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! Off to help stake my tomatoes! 🍅

[jbrodowsky]

I always look for your videos Sunday morning. Your videos are always so motivating with excellent information and love the quirky jokes. 😊

[theburnhams]

Another excellent video, Jesse! We use "cages" formed with "field fencing" (47" woven-wire 6X6 galvanized) with success. Initially used 6X6 concrete reinforcing wire, but it isn't galvanized and when rust forms on the wire wind movement of the plant abrades the "limb" causing problems. The galvanized wire of the field fencing remains smooth and doesn't cause this problem. Re-bar (#5) is adequate support. A t-post will support two cages provided you orient them inline with strongest expected winds. Of course, 4 feet is inadequate for indeterminate varities, but sometimes you can "lead" the plant over to taller support (a pain...). Indeterminates are undesirable for this reason, but so many heirlooms are indeterminate that controls this decision. 8ft. t-posts allow another "cage" to be wired above the first level, or just stick bamboo down in the first cage and pretend you're happy. Do this before the plant fills the cage if you know it will be necessary eventually. Dry-wallers' wearable "jacks" can be useful to increase your "reach" but take some "getting-used-to" for sure.
Keep up the good work! p.s. It helps a lot ($) if you can find "bits an' pieces" of leftover fencing for free....

[ebradley]

I am growing 6 tomato plants and 6 cucumber plants outdoors in a raised bed and I love the clipper system. When I go out every other day I just reclip the plants. Couldn't be easier. I also have the tomatoes interspersed in the pepper plants. Removing leaves from the spent vine leaves room for the peppers to fill out. In the past I used tomato cages for indeterminant cherry tomatoes and they always ended up as a hot mess of vine especially once the plant got to the top of the trellis. At that point I would just let them go wild. I have done the wind the tomato around string method as well but found that rather finicky.🙂

[aileensmith]

About twelve years ago we invested in some heavy duty folding tomato cages. VERY pleased with them and we still have all thirty of them and they are still very functional. Our tomato growing season lasts from early June until almost November. We plant indeterminate tomatoes and often times they will be well over ten feet tall. This year we are going to try the tomahook system on double leaders. Hopefully it will make managing the tomato plants much easier as well as less disease and easier harvesting fingers crossed! As always Thank You for yet another informative and fun video!

[LegacyFarmandHomestead]

Your channel has been absolutely invaluable to my wife and I as we are starting our farm. Thanks a lot!

[cmchatton]

When I used cages, I used two metal tent stakes, (Harbor Freight) and I never had a cage go over. Also, I cut square harvest windows low on the cage where the first set of fruits occurred. Now, I am using the Florida Weave because I am growing way too many plants to cage. Love your work!

John McHatton

[ursamajor]

Im in Wisconsin, zone 4 and I've grown all types of tomatoes for over 3 decades and tried several types of trellising but I've found that the tomatoes are happier, healthier and ripen faster just sprawling across clean, warm mulch. It is more difficult to harvest them though, especially as I age. Also, just before a frost, I harvest all tomatoes and ripen them indoors on a table. They continue to ripen until January to March, keeping me in fresh tomatoes over winter.

[MynewTennesseeHome]

I grow outside and have used cages, Florida weave, hanging string and my favorite is cattle panels. Cattle panels are very strong and easy to move. I attach them to the Tee posts straight down the row. If you use 7 or 8 ft Tee posts the panels can be raised up giving more air flow at the bottom and more height overall. On indeterminate toms all I do is tie the vine sideways along the top. My second favorite is the Florida weave. As always thanks for all the information and insight.