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Warm Grit: Part I (Moors, Tors and Technical Flaws) (4K)
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It's been nice to be getting back out of late. After rupturing my A2 at the start of the year, then having a resurgence of a long-standing shoulder problem as I was rehabbing that.... it's not been the best year so far. As the days lengthened though, there have been some dry spells and, setting my alarm for 4am, I've been able to get out and make the most of some early morning conditions. As I can't climb that hard at the moment I've enjoyed instead exploring a bit further afield and have fallen in love with that Birchover area, picking off some of the easier classics. So good! And I've just scratched the surface.
Featuring:
Stanton Moor
00:03 Chicken Ninja 6A+ (very nice slab problem. The proximity of the tree seems to keep the slab pretty dirty and green, but not sure it would ethical to prune it in such a lovely location)
00:35 Brad's Arete (The Presence of Absence) 6C+ (I paused for a moment wondering if I could release my right hand and catch a little crimpy edge to hold the swing.... before just using the regular beta like everyone else :) )
Hillcar Woods
01:24 Bigger Than A Bee 7A (well worth the 5 minute walk-in! Really nice quality grit and cool arete moves. Felt about 6A+ for this stand version)
Cratcliffe Tor
01:53 Brain Dead 6C (managed to get out at a normal human time for my birthday in June this year and had a lovely evening ticking some Cratcliffe classics, of which this was the first. Deployed full lank at the top.)
02:55 Wish 7A+ (the landing is a bit worse than it looks here and the top-out is horrible. A spotter would be a good idea for this one to stop you bouncing down the hill, as I did on an early attempt. However, the moves make it well worth the effort and skid marks)
03:33 Egg Arete 6B (couldn't not do this on the way back to the car)
Rowtor Rocks
03:50 Blood Falls 6C (taking the kids to explore the Druids' caves was a good excuse to get a quick boulder in here. I never tried this when it was hard, but it's still fun now)
The Andle Stone
04:30 Andle Stone Wall 7B (cool, technical, skin-sapping moves to an awkward mantel top-out. Doing this at 5am, surrounded by the rhododendrons was a lovely experience)
Doll Tor
05:15 Gathering Storm Block Start 7A (amazing moves, should get 3*** in its own right, although the low start looks awesome and nails. I got a bit scared topping out on the green stuff without a spotter)
Rowtor Rocks
06:05 Short Sean's Reachy Roof 7A (this version is enough for me. I don't do powerful campus traverse moves... so I'm fine with using the foot block :) )
Tegness Quarry (Pinnacle Quarry)
07:00 Leeroy's Gap Year Extravaganza 7A+ (possibly the best 7A+ I've climbed on grit. An under-appreciated problem. Great rock, great moves, nice height, 5 mins from the car park. It has everything going for it!)
Featuring:
Stanton Moor
00:03 Chicken Ninja 6A+ (very nice slab problem. The proximity of the tree seems to keep the slab pretty dirty and green, but not sure it would ethical to prune it in such a lovely location)
00:35 Brad's Arete (The Presence of Absence) 6C+ (I paused for a moment wondering if I could release my right hand and catch a little crimpy edge to hold the swing.... before just using the regular beta like everyone else :) )
Hillcar Woods
01:24 Bigger Than A Bee 7A (well worth the 5 minute walk-in! Really nice quality grit and cool arete moves. Felt about 6A+ for this stand version)
Cratcliffe Tor
01:53 Brain Dead 6C (managed to get out at a normal human time for my birthday in June this year and had a lovely evening ticking some Cratcliffe classics, of which this was the first. Deployed full lank at the top.)
02:55 Wish 7A+ (the landing is a bit worse than it looks here and the top-out is horrible. A spotter would be a good idea for this one to stop you bouncing down the hill, as I did on an early attempt. However, the moves make it well worth the effort and skid marks)
03:33 Egg Arete 6B (couldn't not do this on the way back to the car)
Rowtor Rocks
03:50 Blood Falls 6C (taking the kids to explore the Druids' caves was a good excuse to get a quick boulder in here. I never tried this when it was hard, but it's still fun now)
The Andle Stone
04:30 Andle Stone Wall 7B (cool, technical, skin-sapping moves to an awkward mantel top-out. Doing this at 5am, surrounded by the rhododendrons was a lovely experience)
Doll Tor
05:15 Gathering Storm Block Start 7A (amazing moves, should get 3*** in its own right, although the low start looks awesome and nails. I got a bit scared topping out on the green stuff without a spotter)
Rowtor Rocks
06:05 Short Sean's Reachy Roof 7A (this version is enough for me. I don't do powerful campus traverse moves... so I'm fine with using the foot block :) )
Tegness Quarry (Pinnacle Quarry)
07:00 Leeroy's Gap Year Extravaganza 7A+ (possibly the best 7A+ I've climbed on grit. An under-appreciated problem. Great rock, great moves, nice height, 5 mins from the car park. It has everything going for it!)
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