MASTER your camera's ISO Setting (1/2)

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Every Pro photographer understands the importance of this camera setting for nailing your exposure every single time!

📧 LET'S CONNECT:

#photography #camerasettings #cameragear
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Even with 6 years of Photography experience, I still struggle sometimes with getting my ISO and lighting perfect, Thank you so much for this!

AnythingandEverythingMusic
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If you shoot with anything other than a canon, it's also beneficial to understand how iso invariance works, and to understand that digital sensors use gain, not iso. It's not always best to use the lowest "iso", as that's not usually where the best noise levels are.

theBaron
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i think this “rule” is definitely something photographers should learn on their own, a ruined photoshoot really makes you check your camera’s limits and know them intimately

kinn
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For those who are wondering WHY he never talked about iso here's a rundown:

Iso boosts the sensors sensitivity to light. However that comes at a cost of the photo being grainy. Myself and other astrophotography nerds are extremely familiar with iso grain.

Aperture stops change the amount of light hitting the sensor by tightening or loosening the aperture. At higher stops more is in focus, but less light comes through (pinhole effect) so in order to balance the lack of light you need more iso.

Portrait shots have a shollower depth of field, so the aperture is more open allowing in more light at the cost of the foreground and background being out of focus. With this you can lower the iso.

Slow motion cameras are a good example. Their depth of field is normal EXTREMELY pin point, like a few mm, because they need AS MUCH light as they can get for their slow motion footage.

AarPlays
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You know what i notice now? Software is getting better. Noise is (for me) not an issue anymore, i can clean it quite well.

DaevaB
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People saying that only pros understand iso I suggest you shoot film. When your ISO is fixed for your entire film roll, you'll learn pretty quickly how to use it properly.

elliott
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Your content has become a source of inspiration for me. I love the way you approach different topics. Thanks for being awesome! 🙌

FilipLjungberg
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What i learned from Simon D'notremont is you set your aperture and shutterspeed for what you need... then set your iso to whatever is needed to get the picture.

Gearedfilm
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pls give camera tips for phone cameras we will love em!

pramodchouhan
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I'd like think of it as aperture and ss set to what i feel like, and the iso set to whatever the camera feels like.

krishnakumarr
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Theoretically what settings to keep the most in focus (with cost at colo quality/shutter spped/etc)

isheamongus
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I see you standing in front of the castle in Québec…. It’s so iconic, my children en grandchildren lives there, i visited them already twice…. God i love this place…. ( i am from Belgium) i hope i can be there again in 2025 greetz from Blankenberge Belgium

aline
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landscapes are always f8 and smaller for sharp focus, ideally f11. f22 brings in diffraction. wide angle lenses 35 and wider can take f4, but 8 is still better.

Shallow dof means wide open or 1 stop less .

qwiklok
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Or, or, or, just shoot in P mode with Auto ISO turned on. Set the ISO to your max allowable, then based on what you're shooting adjust either the shutter speed or aperture to your liking while maintaining perfect exposure 😅

You know...P mode is just an exposure sliding scale which combines M, Av, Tv (M, A, S) modes of your camera so you have them all simultaneously, especially if you turn your lens aperture ring on or have a lens with a manual aperture ring. Then use the AE-L button (hold/toggle).

Only use the other modes if you absolutely have to. Otherwise use P mode, and adjust your exp. Comp. P mode is a hybrid M mode when you learn to use the AE-L (auto exposure Lock) button. Especially when you turn your meter to "no time limit" and the AE-L button to "Hold".

This will lock your exposure until you press the AE-L button again. Making P mode the best of 3 world's simultaneously.

Also learn what each metering system is for to really take advantage of it.

Matrix is for balance of the entire frame.

Center weighted is for backlit scenes.

Spot meter is for HIGH CONTRAST scenes.

dct
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Also if you swap lenses a lot having a closed aperture you might see the dust on your sensor in the pictures you take. Though you can remove most of it in photoshop pretty easily to some extent. But just telling ya all

Maggashi
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Auto ISO does a pretty good job tbh and I dont care enough about it to warrant changing it 400 times during a shoot.

franktherabbit
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I always shot aperture unless sports action.

outfield
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I need a guide, pls whenever I go to shoot in an event. On coming back to view the images in pc I discover that most of the image are blur...
I make use of Nikon D7100

emmanuelagburum
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Still grab my NEX 5 for family photos sometime the photos look retro compared to my smartphone

StewartWright
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When I started photography I took “keep your ISO as low as possible” too seriously, and tried to shoot everything at ISO 100. After a tonne of blurry photos, I often leave ISO on auto (with a present range) if I’m not using a tripod.

Especially with recent developments in AI (such as on Lightroom), noise removal is so good that you can shoot in ISO 6400 and still finish with an image that looks like ISO 800 or lower. Shutter speed and aperture are the two you can’t fix easily in post.

trimonmusic