1940's Hepburn Trousers Take Two | Plus Size Vintage Sewing | CosTube Collab

This sewing project is a continuation of my collab with @ShannonMakes , the making of a vintage 1940's pattern for Hepburn Trousers! Since mine need to be plus size, I had to grade the pattern up a lot to fit my measurements so I decided to make a a second wearable mock-up. I had a lot of fun delving into vintage style and this was my first time making 1940s pants! Thank you for joining me here on costube for my plus sized historical costuming and sewing adventures!

Pattern:

Shannon's Video:

My First Mockup:

Helpful Pattern Grading Videos:
@Mellysews
@LiftingPinsandNeedles
@TheClosetHistorian

Ko-fi:

Most Used Supplies:
Dress Form (Freya)
Leather Thimble 3 pairs
Dritz Awl
Metal Sewing Kit with Bodkin, Needle Case, Embroidery Scissors, Awl, Thimble
Simplicity Needle Keeper
Guggenhein 9 inch Tailor Shears
Scalloped and Serrated Pinking Shears
Set of Seam Rippers, Thread Snips, 5 inch Scissors
Thread Snips
Fiskar Micro-Tip Scissors 5 inch
Bohin Chalk Pencil
Ultimate Marking Pencil
Pilot FriXion Highlighters

[Ourgrenni]

thank you so much for posting your videos, I follow lots of costubers but most of them have a 'classic' hourglass figure ie they go in at the waist, I do not go in at the waist so I love watching how you adjust patterns to fit you, especially trousers which are so hard to fit right!

[midnightqueen]

(that like your killing me Thanks for sending me back to the drawing board with the mention of slash and spread scaling a pattern up....The realization is hitting that I may have to use that method to make my corset pattern larger. I got the largest one that RedThreaded had, but is too small in some areas more than others. *Cheers* to the learning curve of learning something new. Love your videos

[saralist]

I love the teal pair and just thought the waist and length needed tweaking. I've owned 2 pairs of similar pants and they seem to need comically wide legs to drape right and the first pair is definitely my fave there as well as how the crotch sits. Thank you so much for sharing your process!

[therewillbecatswithgwenhwyfar]

I think I’m with you and kind of prefer the first pair. Maybe you could do a Frankenstein pair next where you take all the things you love about each of them. I think that would be worth it! Yeah I think also the suspenders definitely put you in whiskey grandpa territory! 😁❤️

[historicallyfashioned]

They both have their strengths. You’ve got 2 pairs of wearable trousers and that’s super awesome. If you really feel like it, you could make a pair that combines the things you like into 1 pattern.

Side note: I always look forward to your fur babies’ shenanigans.

[eleanorstrong]

I like the idea of taking the two and combining the best parts. They both look good.

[saiitome]

I really like this collab between you and Shannon!! As a professional pattern maker, my advice would be to deepen/scoop out (a little) and lengthen ( a bit more) the front crotch seam. I can see that the tip of this piece doesn't quite reach in to the center of your inner thigh, as it's too short. You can try standing facing a wall, with the center of your belly( where the center front seam is placed) touching the wall, and measure from the wall to the center of your inner thigh, with a ruler parallel with the ground. This is more or less the distance the pattern needs vertically in between those two points. A bit difficult to explain, sorry! Moving the crotch point out will widen the legs, take this in along the side seam, they will still be very wide but balanced differently.
If you fix this, you'll be able to hitch them up properly in the front, and the legs will fall straighter. The problem isn't very big, just a small change needed I think! Apart from this they both look really, really good😊.

[MonaSkovJensen]

I like them both because somehow they don't look identical. It might be the different colours or the styling, but I like them both

[ladyjusticesusan]

I’m with the first pair width, and the second pair length and waist, I like that. It’s fun to watch the progress of this project.

[arianedhaese]

I like the first pair best and the red lipstick looks so good on you

[carolynchesmore]

Love, love the pants. I would make another pair but with a heavyer weight fab. Now to b fair green is my least fav. Color. You looked so katie in them.

[FantasticalFolliesCostuming]

Filming yourself to check fit is brilliant! Why didn't I think of that? 🤔

I do like the width of the first pair, better, though I heckin love a wide pant, so I'm biased. Sounds like frankensteining a new pair is the way to go, especially if you're not loving either pair, yet.

[hazeluzzell]

I’d use the pair you have. The colour suits you. Trousers don’t suit me. I prefer a divided skirt.

[peggyriordan]

I liked the darker pair of pants. I think you could taper the legs more to take away the squareness of the finished look. It would also make you look taller. The waist on the darker pair does look much better imo. I think it's great that you did these! Pants are really hard to get correctly fitted and I think you did a great job! Thanks for taking us along on the journey. Can't wait for Bridgerton series!

[nurmaybooba]

Both are nice looking on you. Trousers are so hard to get right on me....I can no longer wear them since I get the hems caught when I walk in my shoes and trip myself....One brand came in a shorter inseam but alas no longer yeah hemming did not work you look nice in them if they are comfortable then go for more.

[mandylavida]

I think I like the back of the teal pair best and I do prefer the belt look to the braces, but they are both good to go. Good job on sizing up. You always look so beautiful in whatever you make.

[TealCheetah]

Nicole Rudolf mentioned in a vid/comment that dropping the crotch seam helps disguise FUPA to an extent.

[TheGardenKitten]

they both look good on you, but I personally prefer the first pair. but you are lovely in them both <3

[villagesteader]

Love the fabric! I would do a little heavier weight fabric if I ever make a trouser like this, but since I retired I don’t really wear much other than jeans.
♥️👍🤓

[gerileemakes]

I also like the width of the teal pair and the waist fit of the new pair.