Climbing anchors: The Quad

In this video we talk about the less common, but still very useful Quad anchor setup. Simple to rig and extremely strong, this configuration is best used with bolts.

ATTENTION: Before attempting anything demonstrated in this video seek guidance from a qualified instructor and/or experienced climber.

[laurencejperry]

Clipping 2 strands give you 2 masterpoints - which in my opinion is the main advantage the quad has over a sliding x with limiter knots.

[mark]

clipping 2 strands with 1 biner and the other 2 with another biner is the only option I was taught. Otherwise the biner can slip over the knot and the biner/bolt that blew out and you hit the deck

[Cragcloud]

Really nice and simple setup...and nice video :)

[mag]

Would it be safe to clip to all four strands by creating a sliding X with two of them?

[ChrisMorrisW]

Great video! If I were to use two carabineers for redundancy, would it be even more redundant if I clipped each carabineer into a different set of 3 strands, instead of both into the same 3 strands? Or would this cause some issue I'm not thinking of when the carabineers are sliding around, like slightly 'twisting' the strands and weakening or degrading them?

[elliotbevers]

when he says 3-meter sling does is that the length of the cord or the length when its doubled over (made into a loop)?

[nicelydone]

I recently took a workshop where the instructor taught me to use two carabiners at the master point, each clipped into two separate strands of the quad. It worked great for top rope climbing, with one rope through both biners. Is there a disadvantage to this method?

[lifeisgood]

Any way to build the quad over tree branches? like without clipping? I've got 2 branches. it's for hoisting equipment. I usually use the fake-equalizing overhand knot or figure 8 and looping both branches with a fishermans. (hard to explain, but basically the fake "equalized 3 piece anchor setup")

[An.Ge.]

Can I shelf in the master point unused loop while securing from the top?

[alexsuydam]

Would it be advised against to make this anchor out of a webbing (tape) sling?

[simonsimon]

You would only clip 3 of the 4 strands if you're top-roping off of it. If you're belaying your partner up to a bolted anchor, you would clip yourself to 2 strands, and belay your partner off of the other two.

And, you absolutely can use a quad for a 3-piece gear belay.

Really, there are more than enough quality instructional videos out there, done by certified guides. If you don't have certification backing up your knowledge, it's really dangerous to offer instruction that a beginner could mistake as authoritative.