Why I Don't Use Titebond III | MORE MINUTES

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Woodworking for Mere Mortals (TM)
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Titebond II vs III: I use III simply because it has a longer working time, which is especially important for big glueups. When building skateboards for instance you need to apply a lot of glue, over a large area, before clamping the veneers together. Titebond III affords you not having to rush like a crazy person. Likewise with skateboards, applying glue on both surfaces ensures that you get glue all over the joint, even if you missed a small area on each you're likely to cover it all. I've heard of situations when pressing skateboard decks that pressing too hard can squeeze out too much glue, and leave you with a weaker skateboard deck. Generally, when pressing a deck, you're using more pressure than you could get with most commercially available glue clamps anyhow, as you're putting it into an actual press, or a vacuum bag system.

Completely with you on the CA glue, best used temporarily, at least in wood working. Though, one glue which you left out is epoxy glue. It's both gap filling and has adhesive properties which outshine most other glues.

SwitchAndLever
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Actually, I tested the excessive clamping myth, and in my tests, it did produce a slightly weaker joint. Might not be the same for soft woods though. Seaarch for "can you squeeze all the glue out of a joint"

matthiaswandel
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No-one seems to have mentioned this, but the reason I use TBIII is because it has a longer open time than II, which is a blessing for intricate glue work and complicated clamping (it takes longer to start drying out from its wet state).

JonHammond
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One says "weatherproof", the other says "waterproof"

matthiaswandel
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Have you used Titebond III? Is there any reason I should give it another try? Titebond II seems to work perfectly on every woodworking project I build, indoor or outdoor. I love Titebond 2 wood glue, but Titebond 3 leaves me confused.

SteveRamsey
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Hi Steve! I have a tip for filling nail holes. I do a lot of picture framing and to match the stain on a frame I use alcohol based markers. First I mix up a small amount of a product called Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty (only mix what you need as one it's dry you can reuse it, I think it might be similar to plaster of paris but it seems more durable, either way you are only filling a nail hole not building a fireplace with it.) and fill the hole. I wipe away the excess with a damp paper towel or baby wipe. Once dry I touch it up with an alcohol based marker like a Sharpie. You can get sets that are all neutral color or purchase a few shades in tans and browns at your local art supply store. Since I already have them for my art I use what I have. All brands work great but the artists brands offer more color selection.

You can build up the marker until you get a match. If you are filling a hole in a dark wood such as walnut add some brown acrylic paint to the water you mix with the durhams powder to start off with a darker color putty and adjust with your permanent alcohol based marker. Since the marker is transparent if a bit gets on the wood you can wipe it with your finger and blend it in. Hope it helps!
I even saw a set of "furniture markers" at the Dollar Tree and they are fine for this.

Have a great week!

thefrugalcrafter
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Tightbond is the original and it is the standard mixture, the big difference between tightbond and tightbond 2 is the waterproof nature. Tightbond 3 is more of a specialty glue. 3 has a longer open time (or time you have to work with it until it cures) and one of the alterations in 3 is that it has either acorn or walnut shells in it (I don't remember which) that gives it a darner color when it dries so it's easier to hid the glue line.
I agree with you on not using a wet rag for cleaning, If you have squeeze out then let it dry and remove it with a chisel and some sand paper.
Oh, and Tightbond 3 is a pain to wash out of clothes or a work apron. I have found that it won't wash out on it's one and you have to pick it out or just accept that it is there for the long haul.
I like glues and my favorite is the Silicon Marine Glue. It had worked miracles for me. But for woodworking I just use tightbond original or elmers wood glue. I don't care about it's life in water or outdoors because I seal everything with poly or lacquer.
Oh and CA glue with an accelerator is just ca glue that hardens faster. The accelerator does not really alter the chemical makeup after it's hardened it just makes it harden faster than it would normally
Well that is some of the horrible amount of information I know about chemical glues.Your channel has given me a lot of little tips and tricks and I am glad to share some information with you Steve.
Have a great week.

jasonmccabe
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My experiences have been similar to yours when using the glue/sawdust mix. It's tough to get a good match.

Makebuildmodify
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SuperGlue is best for gluing your fingers together...I usually don't intend to do this, but it always seems to happen when I use it! By the way - great video!

RickValasek
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These videos have kept me glued to the screen!

Bikeeast
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Hi Steve et al. In addition to different water resistance levels, The biggest difference between TB3 and TB2 for me, and the reason I bought TB3, is that TB3 is food safe. So if you're making cutting boards or bowls, etc, TB3 is the preferred choice.

JamesG
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This guys provide good and honest advice based on his experienced and real work test ... my respects

jaandel
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Super glue is best at holding fingers together.

metamech
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III and II actually do have different waterproof certs: Titebond III is ANSI Type I and Titebond II is ANSI Type II. Type II is fine for outdoor use in non-extreme temperatures.

TheRacerRich
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Steve,

I was glued to this the whole time. Very binding material!

Iseeuandwatch
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It really is very good. Particularly the one used for kitchen utensils made of wood. Good video friend.

joglysu
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I am 72 years old now, and when I was a kid in the 1950's, I would go with my Dad to the Boat yard where they built Sea going wooded boats up to 90 feet in length. They used a brown Powder glue you mixed with water, which was made by Weldwood. It dried like harder that woodpecker lips. In fact, they would glue two pieces of scrap wood together and tie a string to it and throw it in the river, and after weeks, pull it out and try to beat the joint with a hammer, but could not. The wood would splinter but the Glue never gave up I have looked for this glue, But, Unfortunately, it is Not made any more.. It was the best ever. Nothing now compares with it. Have or had you ever heard of this Glue. It came in a Tin, Paint like can that sealed just like a paint can. Yours Truly, Russell

hobiecat
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At carpenter school we learn that normal wood glue binds way better when the pressure is high and the gap between the pieces should be as small and smooth as possible. We even tested a few differently set up glue joints proving exactly the mentioned above.

NitroTom
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Those labels were not the same. Titebond 2 is weatherproof and Titebond 3 is waterproof. I do avoid using Titebond 3 on only light woods as the glue is darker and shows more no matter what. I have had Titebond 2 start to fail in some cutting boards that we're getting too wet when being washed.

AnDSanford
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Steve, to color match I use sanding dust mixed with the stain or dye. I then allow that to dry and walla color matched filler. Mix that with whatever clear drying glue you choose and you have a perfect match.

alexanderforbes