Why I don't use Gorilla Glue

How the right glue can be a game changer for your next woodworking project!
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★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★

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★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★

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[StumpyNubs]

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*Glues in this video:*

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When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)

★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★

★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★

★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★

★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★

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[danielgbgibson]

Alright, I’ll listen to this guy talk about glue for eleven minutes.

[Kt-xndb]

As usual the Mr Rogers of wood gives the info. One of the reasons I like this guy is because he is succinct. Some people rattle on with info that isn't necessary. My patience taps out long before they finish their soliloquy!

[barryjeter]

25 years as a furniture restoration professional with my own business and one of the most unique uses for Gorilla Glue I ever came up with was in the restoration of weathered, dry rotted, cracked and almost pull'em apart with your fingers window sills. I am talking of course about the weather side. We purchased an old farm house about 10 years ago and several sills really could have been broken off with your hands. Solution. (best done on a cloudy day) Mist the window sill thoroughly (the gorilla likes it damp as Stumpy Nubs says) Don a pair of heavy duty rubber gloves or a couple of pair of the blue ones, lay on a coat of gorilla brushing (very stiff brush) it into all those huge cracks and crevices or just work it in with your fingers if you like using a squeegee motion across the grain to force it in, you don't have to level it to the top of the crevices, obviously because this stuff is going to foam out of there and all over the entire top as well, as you might expect. Let it do it's thing.
After it sets up nice and hard take your multi tool (vibrator tool) with a flat blade installed and "shave" off the top of the window sill. If the glue has set well you can now go for your orbital sander and sand the whole thing. (Gorilla sands pretty well if you let it set up well) Try not to go too crazy with the sanding because some of the gorilla has penetrated the "punky" wood of the surface wood and it will waterproof the surface for you and give it a new surface as well... but you would like to have it relatively smooth Next step prime it with a decent primer after that dries take a premium caulk apply to the whole top surface smoothing with your freshly gloved hands or use a auto body squeegee....smooth it out as best you can because this is the surface you are going to paint. (misting the caulk might help you out here and working on that cloudly day as well.)
After your caulk dries you are ready to apply your finish paint. Since the glue jumps gaps and grabs without a clamp this procedure holds tight quite nicely. My window sills have held up now for over nine years pushing 10 with no deterioration. I know this seems to be dicey but it doesn't take that long, at all, compared to taking out a whole sill. Hope this helps with someone that has a house over 100 years old as I have. Edit: would like to add that the reason for the caulk coating is that, gorilla when cut and sanded is very porous, bubbly if you will and it looks like foam in the cracks, the caulk fills in those bubbles. PS: Acetone clean up, on the gorilla glue, if you get it on you or surrounding after it fast, it doesn't take prisoners.

[Waltham]

I stopped using Gorilla Glue when I learned it wasn't made from real Gorillas.

[Chiller]

I collect vintage guitars. They almost always require the neck joint to be disassembled and reset after decades of use. The constant asymmetric tension caused by the strings cause the neck geometry to change over time making the guitar difficult to play. Fortunately all these older guitars are constructed with hide glue making the neck joint disassembly easier.

[yellowked]

No yelling, no overediting, no BS. Straight to the point, clear and useful explanations
This is how any YT presentation should look like
Great job

[revjohnlee]

I like those tubes of stick glue that are like oversized chapsticks. I just used it to hold down paper templates that I make on the printer. When I'm done, it's easy to peel off and clean up. Just don't count on it for ANY kind of strength.

I never expected to be so happy to learn about glue, thank you.

[tomtrauberman]

I have used gorilla glue to repair a crack by drilling into the end grain and first pouring in yellow glue followed by gg followed by a dowel. The glues foam into the crack and makes a nice repair. I have also used this trick to fix squeaky stair treads by drilling a small hole through the tread. Pouring in the yellow and gg then plugging the hole with a dowel. The glues expand and cure to fill the gap and stabilize the tread. Squeak gone. Gg is another tool in the toolbox and has its place.

[MadMathMike]

The clarity of information in your videos is surpassed by none. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us in such an incredibly concise way.

[Halzholic]

I'm a white glue person. It simply tastes better. You failed to convince me.

[SantaBunny]

A much less used adhesive but often my favorite is rubber cement. It’s not always useful, but as a maker, I often find myself attaching two materials that “shouldn’t” be attached together. The rubber cement adds enough flexibility to adjust to different expansion ratios and densities while still maintaining a strong joint.

[mothman-jzug]

I find Gorilla Glue quite useful in certain situations, but certainly wouldn't use it for furniture/cabinetry work. For example, putting a picnic table together using Gorilla Glue, it is under the exposed surface, so any slight mess from the stuff is out of sight, but it holds things together much better than just mechanical fasteners and is simply stronger than any other glue I've used. I also used it extensively building a small dock at a pond. But for furniture making that foam would be a NIGHTMARE! I'll stick with Titebond for that work.
One thing I learned to do using white glue (in the days when Titebond and the like were yet unborn) was in a special glue-up for turning on a lathe. This was for turning on a face plate. The wood for the project was glued together, then a scrap board was glued to the bottom BUT with a sheet of bond paper (notebook paper or typing paper) between the scrap piece and the actual project. Then, the face plate was screwed to the scrap once the glue had set.
After turning, a wide wood chisel could be placed on the seam where the scrap was glued on, flat side TOWARD THE GOOD PART. A good whack with a mallet, and the paper split, leaving white fuzz half the original thickness of the paper on each surface. This was easily sanded off the work piece and done. I don't know if this would work with other glues, and I would be afraid to try.

[ptester]

My favorite use of CA glue is with blue painter’s tape. Tape both sides of the joint, glue on one side and accelerator on the other and you have an instant joint for patterns, jigs, etc. that can be easily disassembled and won’t harm the surface like double sided tape can. There’s no residue to clean up, either.

[trackie]

Plain old Elmer’s Glue-all is probably the most underrated glue out there. It’s cheap, strong, dries clear, cleans easily. I’ve built dozens of stringed instruments with it.

[ProfMannion]

Shop was what got me through HS. I wish I had videos like this growing up. I am so glad that Woodworking will not become a lost art with these videos with a lot of shop programs getting cut. Thanks for the content.

[caseyfriesema]

I'd also love to see a video about CA glue uses. My only dislike for CA glue is that no matter how careful I am, I always end up getting some on me.

[steveelves]

When lining a small box I made for my granddaughter, I cut some pieces of cardboard just undersized and then applied craft felt with spray adhesive. The box looked pretty nice for her Barbie jewellery!

[murphymmc]

Using PU glue on damp wood has another drawback, depending on how damp the wood, it may shrink when dry, PU is brittle, the joint will fail quicker. I say quicker because every joint I've glued or been around that was glued with PU fails more quickly, yes, every joint. Another white glue you may want to consider is Roo Superbond. Type 2 rated and sets quickly. I typically do use it on glue ups that need a longer open time. They also make a melamine glue, Roo Clear, it works on nearly everything including it's intended purpose. It remains more flexible than any of the others, not advised for lathe glue ups for that reason. Roo makes a yellow glue as well, it's on my list to try. With both Titebond and Roo, my search for non-CA wood glue is over. No, not sponsored by either, just good products for more options.