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How to Rebuild Brake Calipers
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How to rebuild brake calipers on your vehicle. For this I’m using my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 as an example, these are two piston calipers, however the same process still applies to single piston calipers too. Being that the truck is going through for a safety, these do need to be repaired. When I priced out new calipers, they were about $150 per side and a rebuild kit was about $20 per side. Calipers will need to be rebuilt if they’re leaking, sticking, or having ripped dust boots. #autorepair #brakes #howto
Here are the Amazon links for some of the products used in the video:
USA:
Canada:
Tools/Supplies Needed:
-wire brush
-brake cleaner
-brake fluid
-socket set and ratchet
-wrench set
-standard screwdriver
-new seals
-block of wood
-air compressor
-scuffing pads
Procedure:
Loosen the master cylinder to relieve any pressure. Use large interlocking pliers to compress the pistons if possible. Pinch the rubber flex line so the all the fluid doesn’t drain from this line.
Use the appropriate sized socket to break the bleeder screw free. Being that the caliper is being rebuilt, you can use a little heat from a propane torch.
Disconnect the brake flex line, have a drain pan ready to catch any dripping fluid. Using brake cleaner, wash the caliper to remove any dirt or brake fluid.
Use an air compressor, I set the regulator to 50psi. Make sure the bleeder screw is tight too. Keep your fingers far away from the pistons as they can come out with force and I’d also recommend wearing safety glasses.
Use wood or plastic to give the pistons something to hit against, don’t use the frame of the caliper or steel as it’ll damage the pistons. It helps if you have something wide enough where it can push both pistons out almost fully, that way if one sticks, you won’t have to struggle keeping the other in place. If one piston comes out too soon, then push it back in, then wedge it into place until the other comes out.
Remove the dust seals, these just fit into a slot and they can sometimes be stuck in place due to rust. Clean the pistons using brake cleaner, then inspect to ensure there’s no excessive rusting, pitting, scraps, or any other type of damage which can cause leaking or premature failure of the seals.
Wash the caliper with brake cleaner, removing any brake fluid. Clean up any loose rust and dirt using a wire brush and wash using brake cleaner. Use a standard screwdriver or scriber, some which can clean the groove sufficiently.
The standard screwdriver to remove the fluid seals. Gently remove then, don’t damage it’s slot as this can cause a leak. Use a 600 grit or higher scuffing pad to clean up the seal’s grooves. Use a 1000 grit scuff pad to clean up the pistons, removing any debris. Finish up with a metal polish to leave a clean finish which will ensure we have a good sealing surface and all the surface debris has been removed. Then give them a final clean with brake cleaner.
Only using brake fluid as a lubricate, anything else would cause contamination, apply it in the seal grooves and seals. Install the pistons, more brake fluid is applied to the outside surface where the seals will be in contact with.
Install the newly rebuilt caliper and tighten up those slide pin bolts. Reconnect the brake line and install new crush washers and torque the banjo bolts to the correct factory specifications. Then finally bleed the brakes, start from the furthest wheel first.
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
Here are the Amazon links for some of the products used in the video:
USA:
Canada:
Tools/Supplies Needed:
-wire brush
-brake cleaner
-brake fluid
-socket set and ratchet
-wrench set
-standard screwdriver
-new seals
-block of wood
-air compressor
-scuffing pads
Procedure:
Loosen the master cylinder to relieve any pressure. Use large interlocking pliers to compress the pistons if possible. Pinch the rubber flex line so the all the fluid doesn’t drain from this line.
Use the appropriate sized socket to break the bleeder screw free. Being that the caliper is being rebuilt, you can use a little heat from a propane torch.
Disconnect the brake flex line, have a drain pan ready to catch any dripping fluid. Using brake cleaner, wash the caliper to remove any dirt or brake fluid.
Use an air compressor, I set the regulator to 50psi. Make sure the bleeder screw is tight too. Keep your fingers far away from the pistons as they can come out with force and I’d also recommend wearing safety glasses.
Use wood or plastic to give the pistons something to hit against, don’t use the frame of the caliper or steel as it’ll damage the pistons. It helps if you have something wide enough where it can push both pistons out almost fully, that way if one sticks, you won’t have to struggle keeping the other in place. If one piston comes out too soon, then push it back in, then wedge it into place until the other comes out.
Remove the dust seals, these just fit into a slot and they can sometimes be stuck in place due to rust. Clean the pistons using brake cleaner, then inspect to ensure there’s no excessive rusting, pitting, scraps, or any other type of damage which can cause leaking or premature failure of the seals.
Wash the caliper with brake cleaner, removing any brake fluid. Clean up any loose rust and dirt using a wire brush and wash using brake cleaner. Use a standard screwdriver or scriber, some which can clean the groove sufficiently.
The standard screwdriver to remove the fluid seals. Gently remove then, don’t damage it’s slot as this can cause a leak. Use a 600 grit or higher scuffing pad to clean up the seal’s grooves. Use a 1000 grit scuff pad to clean up the pistons, removing any debris. Finish up with a metal polish to leave a clean finish which will ensure we have a good sealing surface and all the surface debris has been removed. Then give them a final clean with brake cleaner.
Only using brake fluid as a lubricate, anything else would cause contamination, apply it in the seal grooves and seals. Install the pistons, more brake fluid is applied to the outside surface where the seals will be in contact with.
Install the newly rebuilt caliper and tighten up those slide pin bolts. Reconnect the brake line and install new crush washers and torque the banjo bolts to the correct factory specifications. Then finally bleed the brakes, start from the furthest wheel first.
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
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