Toyota/Lexus Brake Caliper Rebuild (FJ80/LX 450 & Any Other Model with a 4-Piston Front Caliper)

In this video, we show you how to rebuild a Toyota/Lexus 4 Piston Brake Caliper. We did this job on an FZJ80 Land Cruiser which would be the same as a Lexus LX450. Even though this job was done on a Land Cruiser, the steps necessary to pull the calipers off the vehicle and the steps necessary to rebuild the calipers and get them back on the vehicle would be very similar, if not identical to other Toyota/Lexus SUVs and Trucks.

**VIDEO REFERENCES**
*Speedy's Garage "How To Rebuild Brake Calipers 3rd Gen 4Runner 13WL"

**TORQUE SPECS**
*Caliper Mounting Bolts - 90 ft-lbs
*Brake Caliper Brake Caliper Banjo Bolts - 22 ft-lbs
*Wheel Lug Nuts - 85 ft-lbs

**PARTS**

Disc Brake Pad Anti-Squeal Shim Kit #04945-04012 (Optional - You can reuse your old ones)

Brake Caliper Bolts #90101-12144 (Optional - You can reuse your old ones)

Brake Pad Pins #90240-06016 (Optional - You can reuse your old ones)

Brake Pad Pin Clips #90080-46209 (Optional - You can reuse your old ones)

Brake Pad Springs #04947-60090 (Optional - You can reuse your old ones)

Caliper Brake Line Banjo Bolts #90401-10015 (Optional - You can reuse your old ones)

Caliper Brake Line Banjo Bolt Washers #90430-10074

**HELPFUL TOOLS**
*If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.*

*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench

*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench

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[richardstone]

Replacing the Banjo Bolt with new washers is a great idea.
I did my brakes and calipers without replacing the Banjo Bolt and washers and shortly after every one of them leaked.
I'm not saying that will happen with yours but that is what happened to mine.
GREAT VIDEO!

[mattb]

Just from my lessons learned from my old Tacoma- if you want to avoid rebuilding the calipers while the truck is still less than 80k-100k miles, make sure to just purchase the correct piston compression tool for the front calipers. Don't do the screwdriver prying against the pad method that a lot of YouTubers still show. As shown in his video, the piston walls DO accumulate containment and buildup over time (partially because of the outer fluid channel in the caliper), and the screw driver method causes that stuff to foul up the piston/seal interface, it may slow down just one piston. This eventually causes uneven, unlevel pad wear by a very small amount, and then will cause a runout on the rotor- and as a result causes whole truck shakes during light braking despite having very smooth hard-brake performance. The piston spreader assures that the pistons are returned all the way in while staying perfectly square with the caliper. Multi piston calipers are great, but they are slightly higher maintenance and they all need to be moving evenly with one another to always allow for perfectly level pad wear. Needless to say, I rebuilt those calipers, and then replaced all the hardware again because of the runouts, and they performed even better than new without any problems.

[richardsauer]

Tim/Sean, another great video! I spent a lot of time in the Bay Area before leaving California. I love it how you travel to people’s homes to film. He definitely tested those brakes when he left his driveway. It would have been mildly funny if he went across the street into the dry grass. I am glad the rebuild was a success. Take care.

[PG-jivq]

I use very fine valve lapping compound with a cloth to clean up the pistons, works a treat.

[JardineiroRaizes]

I was able to get my caliper pistons out with a bike floor pump - woodworking clamps were super helpful. Thanks for the great video!

[andrewb]

Another great video. I found your advice on getting the pistons out very encouraging because I don't have a compressor. So I assumed I wouldn't be able to do this job. But seeing your video changes all that. BTW I've done 2 valve cover gasket jobs on 5vz-fe rigs in the last month and both went perfect thanks to your channel.

[MHZ]

perfect timing, need to replace me pads and rotors w00t!

[aldomassa]

Excellence as always guys !
Tim really good tutorial, just seeing that iconic truck. Thanks for encouraging sic mods safely.

[scubbarookie]

Thank you Tim! This is another great point of reference. I will be rebuilding 2 sets of Tundra calipers; the 199mm, & the 231mm from a Sequoia. I just got them all cleaned up and ready to paint! Both factory kits are the very best; however, you still need to keep the inner seals to reuse them, because the factory kit do not come with these. Take care Brother!

[maxbagard]

Merci pour cette vidéo, elle va m'aider.

[andrewb]

If you are reusing pistons with any corrosion, you want to put the piston in with the discoloration up. Opposite the staining in the caliper. The rust/stain/deposit always forms on the botom(as installed), because water that creeps in through the seal from the atmosphere collects on the bottom. Also, "brake caplier assembly fluid" is the best shit ever made. It's not hydroscopic. If this is a car you don't often drive, its mandatory.

[tanailao]

Very detail video on caliper rebuilt. I used this as a guide on 04 4runner, but 2 out of 4 pistons on both front calipers seized up and had to buy rebuilt calipers from Napa. One question though, why the rebuilt kit comes metal rings for pistons boots? The original calipers on my 4runner only have rubber boots on the pistons and they were easy to remove.

[kflo]

I know I learned the hard way on my Tundra put the wear indicator on the OUTSIDE not the inside pad. My outside wore before the inside and ate into the rotor before it squealed on me. Toyota should put indicators on all pads IMO.

[schadlarry]

Great timing. My dust covers are looking a little ratty so I need to do this before the pistons start sticking. I got the OEM kit but no grease. I assume I can just use a little brake fluid. Or should I use the same hi temp grease that I will coat the pins with?

[jordanziegenbein]

A great product for the caliper and pad sliding points is Super Lube brake grease (97008 part number). It's silicone grease based with PTFE. Seems to have better overall reviews than various Permatex products.

[rustyshackleford]

It's likely that the small amount of corrosion or contamination to the pistons and inner cylinder, didn't get past the seals, but came from moisture in the brake fluid. Most brake master cylinders are vented to the outside *and* brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture), which is why the brake bleeding maintenance intervals are pretty important to follow closely.

[SeshMurthy]

On my highlander I took off the caliper with the pads but left it attached to the brake line. I put a block of wood slightly less than the thickness of the rotor and stepped on the brakes. The pistons moved out.
Then put thinner wood, repeated till the pistons were almost out.
What do you think?

[ziauddin]

good but there is another groove anteriorly in the cylinder in which outer rubber seal ring fold sits #👍🇵🇰

[stevanrose]

I bought some repackaged pads from Amazon and they had the squealers on both pads. They were new but I paid less than nine dollars for the set. My buddy said I got a deal because he said you can’t put brakes on a bicycle for less than nine dollars. 😀

[andyg]

Lightly polish the area where the sides of the pad sit for free movement