[RESULTS!] Provent 200 Catch Can - does it stop manifold gunk?? 40,000km road test!

Does the Provent 200 catch can ACTUALLY stop your manifold gunking up?? If you're thinking of buying a catch can to stop manifold gunk, this is essential viewing!

This is a follow-up video to a test I did at 18,000km on the same set-up, showing what's changed in the manifold after another 20,000km and how effectively the catch can's working at getting rid of oil.

[scottjuice]

Catch can isn’t for carbon catching as the carbon comes from the exhaust through the EGR. The oil comes from blowby that is vented back into the air intake. Another problem with a catchcan is if it becomes blocked or restricted hose size, then it will put pressure in the engine and can cause top end valve leaks. So be sure to have a catchcan that allows for pressure to escape if filter is too blocked.

I actually use a plastic bottle at the base of my catchcan hose so that if pressure builds in the catchcan it can also just vent out straight through the hose at the base.

The plastic bottle is clear and easy to see when fall. Just old plastic coke bottle. But if you had excessive blowby you could use a 1.5 litre bottle.

The next issue is the carbon and EGR. Many just put a resistor on the blue/black wire of the MAF to trick the EGR to stay closed and not allow any exhaust gas to be sent into the manifold. Now this means the combustion chamber runs with more oxygen constantly and gets a full burn at hotter always.

With the EGR it means that usually under 2000 rpm the EGR is open and the combustion chamber is reduced of oxygen and therefore burns cooler, but importantly it also needs less fuel to actually combust. Then when you throttle above 2000rpm the EGR fully closes and you get more fuel in with greater oxygen and therefore hotter and bigger combustion that leads to faster pistons movement.

Interesting that if you delete the EGR or block it, then at idle you I’ll find it actually idles faster. This is because the amount of oxygen is greater. So it combust faster and hotter. But in reality it uses more fuel to do this. But not more. The thing is most people think that putting a EGR delete improves economy. Whilst yes it does if you got carbon and oil sludge buildup and therefore your EGR isn’t working properly and also other systems in the manifold and even in the combustion chamber are getting dirty, then for sure, by deleting the EGR you will find better fuel economy and power.

However, you definitely are going to be getting your pistons running hotter. Now not because the EGR cools them down from blowing exhaust gas onto them. But because this exhaust gas reduces the amount of oxygen and therefore “explosion” taking place in the combustion chamber. You see even whilst cruising the highway the EGR will be open. The combustion chamber doesn’t require a big hot explosion to cruise. It just requires a small cooler burn, and this too reduces N02, to protect the environment.

So for all those who run their engines over long distances with EGR closed, you may actually be reducing the life of the engine in the lower end in a bid to try protect the upper end from soot and oil.

Most mechanics will tell you that EGR delete should be a off-road thing, as it improves engine response, especially in the lower end. But they caution against fully block EGR for regular driving, especially highway. Not because blocking the EGR is actually environmentally illegal, but because extra heat in the combustion chamber is not a good thing in any engineering book!

So if you want to do it, please keep up your oil changes and use a full synthetic if possible that will hopefully make up for that extra heat. Also, try get a scan gauge before you do the modification and see how it effects running temperatures.

Next but not least. Put a Engine Guard on your head!!! Too many people really got no idea how hot the head is getting and usually cook it whilst hammering in the deep stuff. The engine guard will send you an alarm to wake you up!

Good luck. The common rail non DPF Pajero is about the best diesel motor on the 4wd market that is reliable and powerful with huge torque and towing capacity. The EGR problem is the most common problem with them. Once you sort that and dirty fuel, you got half the problems done.

[tonygersbach]

Thank you for taking the time for conducting the tests and for sharing the results. I look forward to seeing the other tests you mentioned 👍

[bonza]

I have a 2016 79 series Landcruiser with the V8 diesel. at 35, 000 kilometers I installed a Provent 200. like your videos it definitely catch's blow by oil. Now after putting more than 50, 000 kilometers with a catch can, carbon is still building up in the inlet manifolds as you describe. to me this seems abrasive and as these engines are known to wear badly due to dusting I'm concerned that dry powdery carbon could be as bad as dust. I am seriously thinking of removing the catch can and returning to a stock setup as this will stop the carbon being powdery and the blow by oil would help lubricate the inlet valves, besides most of the oil would get burned off as I tend to use this vehicle for long runs. for me I would rather remove the intercooler, egr valves and intake manifolds and clean it every, say 150k

[gregroles]

310, 000kms on my diesel, Provent 200 from new. Intake is slightly oily each full disassembly, from turbo seal leakage. Incredible device, just change the filters once they get completely soaked, cleaning them doesn't really work. I hobbled the EGR from new FYI.

[ThePopypete]

Good stuff .🤗 can't wait to see how the cleaner works . THANKS .

[stevethomson]

Hi Greg, great videos mate.. I just wanted to make a comment on the Provent 200. It's an Oil Separation system designed to collect as much oil from the blow by gases as possible. I personally think it's the best in class as it is always collecting oil. I have one on my 2018 Pajero Sport since new and it does exactly what it's designed to do.

[heathharry]

with the EGR unblocked, diesel particle buildup is completely expected, you need both catch can and EGR block installed to make a real difference...or the OEM get thier act together, and run the EGR input after the

[GMans-World]

Thanks Greg, a lot have been waiting for your testing, thank you for taking the time and effort to do this for all of us to learn... I have been waiting for this to maybe install my catch can. I also just recently purchased a EGR blank with a 7mm hole, what's your thought on these along with the catch can ?? be interested in knowing your thoughts, this combo might sort this build up issue ??

[barcs]

Great stuff - my NS SWB is at 160km and will be getting a full intake + EGR at 180. Your findings will 100% influence what brands and approach I go with here.

[dupadupa]

Looking forward for your all tests outcome. I have 2014NX with same catch can and resistor mod since I purchased it (115kkm). Now it has 205kkm and I never looked inside manifold. Maybe I should one day but didn't notice any issues at the moment. My idea was that that (old) build-up should be now dry enough to get pulled in to cylinder but watching this video I'm starting to think that maybe moisturizing it by fumes would work better. So in fact resistor mod and no catch can could have worked better. But then what about oil collected in IC? Anyway... waiting for your outcomes.

[MarkNorman_NXTLVL]

Hey, just to note about the EGR, you can " remove" the codes with a custom engine tune. This means all you need to do is unclip the EGR valve and keep driving.

It is valuable,

Catch cans, Im reserved of oil in the intake, bad or good I dont know - however EGR soot is horrible.

Plus having a custom engine tune is perfect for the paj, they are absolute weapons. - before putting my Roof top tent on, with new rack and 33's I was able to do 0-100kph in 8.1 seconds. pretty quick for a mild tune.

Cant wait to see your next test with the intake with an EGR stop.

[xpto]

Hi Greg, my first youtube coment ever 😅. My idea is that your catch can doesnt hold much oil by design, it fills up to the out port and some oil goes to the intake, i would attach the under drain tube to a collecting bottle of some some sorts just to be sure. Cheers

[Dzver]

Hi Greg, been following your updates for some time now and really appreciate the effort you put in these experiments for us to see. There is another thing that i have been looking into lately and that is water-methanol injection. This has been a game changer in the petrol engines and especially in the DI (direct injection) engines as they were notorious for carbon build up on the intake valves. After installing the water-methanol injection it keeps everything spotless. and ofc it also has other performance advantages. However I've been thinking if this is something that could be a benefit for diesel engines too. For example having a water-methanol port injection before the EGR valve in the intake and see if it will help stop the soot build up in the intake. I assume if it does help it will probably be most effective when starting with a clean intake manifold.

Well that was my two cents, let me know if you have any experience with this and if it's any interest of you to try it out and see if we can find solutions to stop the soot build up while keeping EGR still in function. Thanks again and hope to see more.

[MadRS]

The problem is that catch cans aren't designed to prevent build up in diesel intakes. They were designed to prevent oil entering the intake of petrol vehicles and reducing the effective RON of the fuel. Diesel is much more oily and thus when it burns it still has a moisture content. Nothing will stop this from coating the inside of an intake other that stopping the exhaust gasses actually entering the intake. EGR deletes are illegal but are the only way to prevent the sooty build up.

[markj]

I ordered a replacement M+H provent 200 filter for my 08 Jeep CRD and it came with a conversion kit which relocates the vent spring from top of lid to bottom of filter. It now recirculates to the return hose rather than venting to atmosphere. Just a heads up for those who are expecting the old style filter and vent to atmosphere setup.

[Akya]

I appreciate you putting this out there. I might recommend a water methanol injection system to keep the intake clean.

[Bananas]

Thanks for the followup. Very interesting findings.

[johnsipolis]

Hi Greg, interesting video. I just had the same provent in my 2020 3.2 pajero after having the egr removed and cleaned, the intake butterfly was stuck partially open caused by the the build up of gunk in the egr. The car was not running right and the warning light came on. I was surprised that this happened so soon as it's only got 55.000kms on it and I've had since new. I don't go off road and no towing except for a small tinny and I do a bit of highway driving, I also use Fuel Doctor, not sure if that helps. Anyway I've had it sorted out, not by mitsubishi but by a very good diesel mechanic, not sure if warranty would have covered that but I'd rather pay and get it done promptly and properly.

[niravsurati]

I think the best comparison is if you did a seafoam upper manifold clean and THEN test and see how much build up there is. That way you’re starting clean from both aspects

[ngochuybk]

The soot build up comes from the EGR, not the catch can. You have to do both for a clean intake manifold. If you only do one, do EGR delete. It works much better than the catchcan. For me, catchcan doesn't worth the money. If you block egr, all the soot will be blocked. Your intake manifold will have oil but clean, not oil mixed with the soot so its safe for the engine