How to get your Carbureted Engine to start faster.

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I used to hate it when my engine would crank and crank and crank, and finally start. You can fix that! Let's talk about How to get your Carbureted Engine to start faster. You can do two different things. One, install an electric fuel pump to prime the bowls and/or add a check valve. If I can do this at home, so can you!

This channel is all about how to's and what to watch out for, when working on your own car. Mike is at the tail end of rebuilding his Pontiac 400, which is now a Butler Performance 467, because a Roller Lifter Broke! (see link below). Also fresh off of installing a New TREMEC TKO 600 from Silver Sport Transmissions. Subscribe to watch more projects on this built, not bought, 1969 Pontiac GTO.

Parts in this video;

Carter Electric Fuel Pump

Carter Check Valve

Here's the original Hydraulic Roller Lifter Fail Inspection, and process:

Here's the Official Part 1, where Mike starts the preparation of Engine removal

Enjoy, and ask questions by leaving a comment below... See you on the other side!

Instagram/fastmontysgarage

#GarageBuilt #Pontiac #DIY
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Badass car! I run the stock mechanical fuel pump on the 460 in my 74 f100, putting a check valve between the pump and carb has to be one of the absolute best mods under 10 dollars I've ever done. I also have a clear filter between the check valve and the carb so I can see what's going on. She fires off faster than fuel injection even after sitting for several weeks. Once warmed up, you barely have enough time to twist the key before it starts.

somethingtrulyhorrifying
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For three years, I have been plagued with an intermittent engine that would die under heavy fuel demands. Now I know why, and can’t thank you enough! When my electric fuel pump was off, the fuel pump on my 1948 Lincoln V12 could not suck enough fuel through my Carter fuel pump. FINALLY with the bypass/check-valve installed, my issue is over!

johnmccarthy
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I smiled when he broke out the engineering paper

cherokeecook
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In addtion to everything seen here with a carbureted setup, a great thing to add would be a +12v 30a relay and fuse with an adjustable seconds timer built in, so no more using a manually operated switch to turn the electric pump on and off, convinient since you might forget to turn the manually operated switch off while driving. With the circuit properly hooked up, turn the ignition key on(no start), the relay will activate the electric pump for 3-5 seconds, then automatically turns the pump off, the timer resets itself after all power is removed, like key off, that should provide just enough time to fill the fuel bowls for quicker starts, hot or cold. Much like what the ECM does for EFI cars, when you turn the key on, the pump is primed for a few seconds, then turns off, of course the ECM waits for an RPM signal or oil pressure to turn the electric pump back on to run the engine for saftely reasons, same principle here.

Bigeu
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A simpler system is using a "Facet" fuel pump 4-5 psi. It's a flow through bypass when off (not pumping). The body is grounded to chassis with only one wire to a momentary switch, then routed to switched keyed sourced fuse. Once the carburetor is primed the fuel pump takes over not starving the motor of fuel. This would eliminate check valves, tees, and additional fuel hoses. Great alternative, well executed video.. cherry ride!!

nomadicconquistador--
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Man I’ve looked at a lot of videos about fuel vapor vapor lock everything you go to the south 83 F150 control valve never heard of it I’m glad I met you

eddieconerly
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This is hands down the best channel for people that have no idea what they are doing😅 slowly bringing back my car to life.

theoldyoungman
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i can let my rig set for a month no problems never had problem even after 3 months of sitting it fires right up running a 450 hp 454 crate engine then put an intake and 850 on it that really made it come alive

jeffrey
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Thanks, man! Didn't even know these check valves existed. Definitely need a couple for my old cars. Maybe I'll be able to leave the air cleaners on permanently!

BlueRidgeJ
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Just did this to my 67 GS400. The car would take 30 to 40 seconds to start due to no fuel in the carb. My only issue was when I tied the fuels up out of the way, one of them had a kink so I had to extend one of the lines with a loop. Should have known better. Guess I was in a hurry. Thanks for the video.

anomalous
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Very Nice Job On Video, Didn’t Think Of The Check Valve Idea, I Always Did The Pump And Crank Method, Till It Started Deal On The Old Tin Indians, Thank You !!!

gregschultz
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If you don’t have an electric fuel pump as I do in my 70 Z/28 and you want an instant start, you can add fuel down the vent tube to get fuel into the bowl if you drive your car something like once/wk.

johnmilner
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I wired a 'tickle' switch in line with my Oil Pressure Cutoff (no oil pressure, no pump) set up to prime the system. Works great. Also handy to check for any leaks after doing work before ever starting the engine.

gmans
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Such a clean build deserves some Fragola AN lines and fittings. Saw on another comment that it is coming. Can’t wait to see it!

As a side bar if you use ethanol blend fuel I wouldn’t recommend a check valve as it will be a carb tuning nightmare and possibly a faulty check valve nightmare (especially on the idle circuitry), but if I know I’m gonna store mine over the winter I pickle my carbs with a blend of marvel mystery oil and wd40. Just a thought.

curtlyons
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that a smart idea for check valve

can you install the electric pump
parallel to the mechanical pump
with check valve directly at the input of the carb ?
that way if the mechanical pump fails u can use the electric pump to drive u back home .

nassimkoubeissi
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Facet 12 v neg earth if leaving your manual pump still on motor make sure you get low pressure 4.5 to 5 flow thru means intake you can blow thru outlet you can’t blow thru I only use to prime carb using a momentary switch once I take my finger off the button it’s dead and it should start no need for a pressure gauge as well hope this makes sense Vince

rosemcbirney
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Monty as a suggestion in the video it appears your fuel line in very close to the exhaust pipe i would at least wrap the line with a heat shield sleeve to protect the line accidently touching the pipe and causing a fire. also its just me but i don't like those type of fuel hoses and i have converted to a braided line with a Teflon liner in side (PTFE) as they don't degrade it time due to the gas /ethanol content along with providing a better anti chaff barrier, also my connections are all AN fittings, cost a little more then the average set up but i feel its worth it long term again thanks for your video's

stevenb
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Great idea & explanation. Im currently thumbing through a search to diagnose my 1980 gmc 454 with a holley carb. Came across your vid and have to see whats going on. Thanks!
And if you or anyone else had a minute, im having starting issues. Only wants to start with brake cleaner/starting fluid, then once it fires up, it runs fine.
I dont do it much because i know the possible damage that stuff can do to an engine. Just threw that out there. But hey, thanks again. Gonna subscribe and check out more vids. I wanna see this car now that i heard it

ShawnWasBornRide
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Yea. Once oil is pumped. The lifters stop ticking. My 85 power ram w150 5.2 318. Sometimes you can a lifter click at warm up. Then goes away after oil been pumped and warmed up . sometimes it don't tick.

ZacHarYMetaLHiCkBenn
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Good idea. But spinning your oil pump without explosive force on your bearings is actually a good thing not a bad thing. It's worse on your bearings if your engine starts immediately. Minor like you say. But worse. The delay is Harder on your starter but better for your bearings. Which one is easier to replace?

playsportfun