Send without friends: Lead Rope Solo

Brent Barghahn from Avant Climbing shows us his favorite Lead Rope Solo systems and why he chose the devices he did. We talk about it, demonstrate it, and even drop test the full system.

This video is showing how Brent does it and is only intended for you to understand what you are looking at when you go with someone who knows what they are doing. PLEASE DON'T LEAD ROPE SOLO TO LEARN CLIMBING BECAUSE YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO FIND A CLIMBING PARTNER. YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU DON'T KNOW.

*Falling upside down Instagram clips

[HowNOT]

Getting your gear here helps us put out these courses for free

[NotEnoughKit]

"Not all who wander are lost... some are British trad climbers"
GOLD!

Maybe my favorite episode ever! Fantastic work!

[TredasTaurin]

One hour of pure information with a good sense of humor. Now I can learn a lot from their experience! I love it 💪😎👍

[theycallmes]

A couple years ago a partner bailed on a Yosemite trip. I went anyway, alone. I tried finding partners, but could only find boulderers and new-to-trad climbers. So I "learned" how to aid solo with a grigri, my one adjustable daisy, and rope backpack on the Leconte boulder. Satisfied with my skills, I set off on to the Leaning Tower late one afternoon. I was slow on the first few pitches, and it became dark. While doing the final mantle onto the Awahnee Ledge, the cam I was pulling on blew and I fell. I thought there wasn't that much rope out and the fall would stop, but was proved wrong as I bounced off the one little ledge and ended up upside down -- still falling in space with my headlamp shining into dark nothingness. After what felt like a minute of falling I finally came to a stop, still upside down, and now swinging towards an illuminated flash of orange and grey. I smacked into the wall, thankfully helmet first, and righted myself. I was next to the anchor at the start of the pitch. I did not know about the back feeding rope issue. Whoops. Thank you for the comprehensive video so others don't make the same mistake I did. Probably only alive because I chose something so steep/overhanging.

[vojtechmoravec]

I switched from I don't want to LRS because I don't understand the know-how, to I don't want to LRS because I do undertand the know-how 😆😁😁thanks guys for great great content, be safe and have fun 😉

[bobbystorc]

I really miss these long content videos. I can honestly say I've seen every video on this channel more times than im willing to admit. HowNOT2 is always on a nonstop loop in my HOUSE.

[slopsec]

I did some serious solo climbing in the 90s. It was a great feeling of peace, serenity and inner self, never had any scares, then one day I woke up and thought, this is really stupid. I don't need to do this anymore.

Love watching your videos, thanks.

[IAmMaarten]

honestly I have no need for this but just seeing the problem solving involved and the way people with experience think about these things is super valuable to learn to assess risks with any climbing and rope work. Amazing content.

[chadrambo]

This is pure gold! For those of you getting that excitement to not climb with a partner and go have your own adventures I’ll say this. Be proficient a gri gri’s intended uses first. Know how to lead climb well, lead belay well, ascend, belay from above, proficient with anchor building, and all things climbing in single and multi-pitch, or you may get stuck, or worse, dangerously injured.
Not only is it important to be proficient at the other skills for your safety, but if you aren’t, you may find this an not so enjoyable experience if you’re trying to learn to much at once. You may spend all day getting through a climb or two… verses getting to climb all day because you understand all the other things. Just my thoughts!

[DreIsGoneFission]

I’m an engineer at my day job and have recently started tinkering with urethane casting into 3D printed molds. All the little gizmos from “big rubber” made me very happy.

[AndrewSteffenHB]

I've only been watching this channel for a few years, but when I first found it, all I could think was that I would absolutely love to see a lead rope solo climbing video. Now my wish has been granted. Thank you! 🙏

[johngo]

48:00 DANG, that anchor is utterly brilliant. Golden, thank you for sharing all of your hard won secrets. ❤

[wyskass]

I appreciate you addressing this topic, as it's often considered taboo to even discuss it. I attribute it to litigation and lack of personal responsibility culture. Simply sharing and discussing something doesn't put someone at risk. People are adults who have their own responsibility to be well informed to make a judgement of risks and their own skills when attempting any climbing adventure.

[Johnny_Cash_Flow]

Thank you, Ryan.
I know this project can be exhausting and demoralizing at times, but I'm always impressed and grateful for the knowledge you bring to this space and I will never regret buying your shirts in order to support our passion.

Cheers.

[beeestuff]

last time i checked you only shipped to the US but now you actually ship to the EU as well!!!!
i dont think there is a shop i'd rather leave my money with than yours!

[DeaddrakeSD]

This was great. Very similar to how I've been lead rope soloing for years. The only thing I would mention is that Petzl specifically recommends against using HMS or pear-shaped carabiners with a GRIGRI. Their documents specify using a D type biner to avoid the orientation issues mentioned in this video. I used to just use a BD HF biner, but would occasionally run into crossloading. I have switched to a DMM Ceros. I like that it has a belay loop gate that keeps it oriented correctly, and the horn on the spine side makes it impossible for the GRIGRI to slide onto that side of the biner. Thanks for the great videos!

[Canadifan]

Brent is such a beast. Ryan, I've been watching since the highlining days and LOVE what you've done here with the channel and the store, and the breaking gear fear montra. Love to see stoked logical people like you and Brent pushing the industry and pushing our knowledge. Just bought some Avant climbing gear because its exactly what we've needed. Cheers man. Thanks for everything you've done.

[dimalitvin]

Comment on 52:42 "Being this close is ok..."

You said your goal is to prevent a factor 2 on the anchor. I'm with you so far! If so, being this close is not ok, because the knot will run into the chain link almost instantly when you load this DOWNWARD. The catch will be as hard as if you connected the butterfly directly to the maillon.

With the force going up (as you demonstrate) there should also be more distance between maillon and knot to really get an advantage out of that maillon sinch bar (as opposed to just connecting to the butterfly).

Hope this is helpful to people who read this, if anyone reads this ^^ I'm a huge fan of the channel! Many thanks for the content!

[MichaelShuler]

Tinkerer and oldschool engineer.. thanks. For everything you've helped this introvert solo researcher.. my partner and i only get together maaayybe once a year these days. This info supports all my own exp, stay safe, y'all!

[ralphmunn]

With HALF A CENTURY of climbing under my (ever expanding) belt, I've done my share of rope soloing, including LRS on FAs, mostly on difficult ice, NEI4+ R/X... and STILL I learned a butt-load of tips and tricks from this video, which has generated a sizeable shopping list for my next visit to the HowNOT2 store. Thanks, Ryan! 🙏