The Mr Clean Top Rope Solo Method

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Is there a way to quickly clean the anchor from the ground after your done Top Rope Soloing for the day. In the episode I will show you a method that can do just that!

BE WARNED: This is a more dangerous style of climbing. Having another person to climb with and check for mistakes is invaluable. There is a danger of climbing on the wrong line, as well as, many other small details that I can not cover in one short video. DO NOT watch any of my videos and think you have the experience to go it alone. Have fun and climb Safe!

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Just as an addendum, it would be great to put a stopper knot at the end of the rope when you lower it. And for us that don't have instant-transmission it would also be great to backup the rappel with a prussic, Klemheist or some other method. Great video BTW Josh. Love your videos.

FelishaWild
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He instantly transmitted me into a state farm ad. Impressive.

MNDiCANTBiAS
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As a bald guy in the “rope access” side of things I am happy to first hand endorse the Mr. Clean 🧼 method. Definitely a next level technique as there is no “Oh Shiz” literal fallback...

...So hoping the mercy is the letter B in sign language displayed in Josh Perry fashion on a T-Shirt!

towersknotflowers
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We use this method in the military to retrieve rope if we need to get a team down quickly and use the rope again on another slope.

StichesSteel
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Really glad I watched this. Sometimes I kid myself that I already know all the tricks (I don't!) but somehow I missed the trick on using a clove hitch instead of the alpine butterfly that I always use. Next time I need to retrieve I'm definitely going to clove hitch a pair of mini sized snaplinks (opposed gates, like Edelrid 19g) probably reduces snag risk on pull down too! THANK YOU

tomtom
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Love this channel! Thanks for the content dude. Good ep!

fredkennedy
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That's truly youtube's favorite underground climbing channel:)

alexmilot
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Great video! Historically I've just been doing two cloves on a couple carabiners for redundancy. Super quick and easy to set up, but does leave me always having to reascend to clean. This is pretty much just as efficient with the added benefit of not having to reascend after a long day of projecting a route.

kendallleberte
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That's how I want to climb, safe, no whippers, simple set up, great, thank you.

markfishersolosailing
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Heres some unsolicited feedback:
For the effort involved and number of knots tied to toprope a single strand on a biner-block you are leaving a second line hanging for no real purpose other than to be able to clean from the bottom. To top rope solo you always walk to the anchor so this is really just front loading the cleaning work, but leaving another rope hanging there not being utilized. For more redundancy but same overall effort, simply feed the rope to middle mark, tie both sides of the rope from anchor into a BHK that isolates each strand so they function as a redundancy to each other, and then you can use two microtrax or rollnlocks, one on each strand for redundancy. When you top out, transition you simply transition to rappel WITH A THIRD HAND (or biner block if you must), untie your BHK blocker and enjoy the clean pull where your biner-block doesn't get caught in a crack, fully hosing you. As described here there is no clear advantage shown to the viewer of what you are doing, other than "tie a biner block so you can use your grigri to rappel, erm nevermind atc" without backup or mention of a backup. Of all of the ideas skimmed over you exemplified the most common practice that leads to fatality in climbing, no backup to your gloveless rappel. Granted you are in single pitch and saw your ends on the ground, but really really consider what you are showing aspiring climbers on youtube. If you're gonna share knowledge over the internet, make sure its really quality knowledge.
Just posting this to be the yang to the yin, if we ever meet, I'll buy the beer.

cheterpasteen
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Hey Josh. Could you please do a vid on "The talk" for us please? 🤭

Joe-Mamasixtyninefourtwenty
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Nice!
I dig it. I'm a too rope solo climber that definitely will try this out. Nothing like having to climb back up to gather the rope when tired asf. Definitely trying this.

anthonylacy
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Very cool, might have to start using the clove hitch too. I use a very similar setup in trees with a ring and ring cambium saver, that has two different sized rings, if I'm blocking on the small side, I use an alpine butterfly, on the large side I use a double alpine butterfly, because it's larger and doesn't get jammed in the large ring. Both methods are backed up by a biner, but not around the working side, if I did that the retrieval side would always have to follow the same path as the working side.
If you want to top rope solo with two lines, but only have one rope, you could still use this method, all you need is a light retrieval line. Just set up two knot blocks in the middle of the rope, and clip the retrieval line to the rope... Also eliminates clipping in to the retrieval side.

raphaelbeinhauer
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You mentioned lowering off of one strand (grigri) but didn't mention that choosing the wrong strand will result in death. You also had a personal anchor that was so short that you were unable to weight your rappel before removing your personal anchor. This is the best failsafe for the most common errors associated with this method, including lowering off the wrong strand. You discussed how this is an advanced technique that only advanced climbers should utilize and I concur, but will add that you are not advanced enough to teach this technique in a safe, responsible way.

moopbeef
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I thought you could do the run through in a classroom type scenario before taking it out to a climb. It would give better camera visuals to what you’re doing etc. Thanks for sharing this method though.

ryanericksen
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I'd say to socks are because of ticks. Keep up the great content.

tooblue
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What is the reason why you cant just run the ropes through both rings and repel down both ropes on an atc? Or can you, and this method is just helpful if you want to repel off one rope?

samuelcole
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What do you mean by “wear things out” if you use a grigri to rappel off 1 strand?

CasaDelMandar
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Some interesting ideas. I may still prefer tying a BFK in the middle of my rope that I then attach to the anchor with two locking biners - something about that big of a honking knot inspires confidence when I can't see what's going on up there- and then I also know both rope strands will work. In this way, you would perhaps need to thread the rope through the chains at the end, but with your method, you'll still have to thread them - just at the beginning. Also it's just my luck that when I pull the rope, that knot and locking biner at the end is going to get stuck in a crack or a tree or something. Also would you *really* walk away from a TRS setup to get lunch? I'd be worried that someone would screw with my gear - there's a few written accident reports about climbers finding what they thought were TRS setups that they then used, only to find out that they were stuck ropes!

TheLongRanger
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this at the Gunks? love your videos!!!

hellohuman