Big Wall Anchor Tricks That Can Save You Hours

Anchors can be the leak in your time boat. You can lose so much time if you don't have anchor skills dialed. If you can't build the anchor quickly, if heavy stuff smashes down what you want to unclip later, if the bag is on the left and you have to haul towards the right, or are just completely unorganized. You can shave your aid leads down to a quick half hour a pitch but lose it all at a 2 hour anchor cluster... OR you can take a casual hour to lead something but make up for that by doing your anchor, hauling and change over in 10 minutes.

Intro
02:33 2 bolt anchors by Jeremiah
07:34 2 bolt anchors by Ryan
14:14 3 bolt anchor by Jeremiah
18:12 3 bolt anchors by Ryan
23:01Trad anchor by Ryan
26:04 Trad anchor by Jeremiah
32:45 Staying organized

[donkyuhbuhts]

This channel is so ridiculous. The amount of knowledge I've gained from it is seriously awesome. Respect as always guys.

[roccopellerin]

Thanks for helping us all learn from your experience.

[charlstice]

Thanks for all the content, especially the Bolting Bible.

[newsx]

on the three point anchor by jeremiah, the center biner isn’t actually getting pulled two directions, the cordelette is.
if you had 2 separate loops of sling or cordelette going different directions through that carabiner then yes, you’d have 3-axis loading.
but here since the knot is the only thing getting pulled two directions, you’re loading the center carabiner only one way, so yeah, totally safe

[adventureswithfrodo]

Teaching with CMC we always taught 3 point anchors two down and one up. If the leader falls the pull on the belayer is UP.

[adamkelly]

I've always wanted to like the quad anchor, but find once you've jugged on it (or worse, fallen and rescued off it) the knots are too much of a pain to remove. I think the arguments about extension if one side blows are academic since that just never happens if you build your anchor properly, but I tend to favour the BFK type set up just for ease of getting everything packed up ready to use again. I guess if you're going to dedicate a couple of slings as quad anchors permanently and not use them for anything else then that would work pretty well.

[erikosuch]

Thank u, u saving us so much money which we can invest in our trips and adventures! Love from Slovakia!!!❤

[prusikknot]

I don't know if you're planning to attend this year's ITRS in Albuquerque or not, (we were supposed to talk about it some time back and never connected) but I hope to see you there this weekend! Keep doing what you do! Cheers!

[steventhaw]

CLOVE HITCHES FOR THE MASTER POINTS!!! and all anchor points!!!

[onadventures]

Awesome thank you guys for making these vids. Feeding my stoke to big wall!

But why use the daisy when climbing up to the haul bag - you’re tightening the grigri anyway. Why not just weight it on top and do your thing in the bag, then lower down.

Worried the grigri might push against something and disengage the cam?

Thanks again 🙏🏻

[kevingeary]

Thank you for your time and great content!

[gotta-jibboo]

I'm a big fan of trad anchors using cascading sliding-x's.

[MAVNX]

Is there a reason to NOT use rigging plates? Seems like it is an easy way to create clean anchor points that will minimize the chance of "trapping" tie in points and biners when they are clipped in the incorrect order.

[joeleonelli]

The way my teacher explained it to us was that a 91+ degree angle was obtuse and an 89 degree or less was acute little angle. So that’s just acute little pun for you to add to your rack…..thanks for likely saving my life a few times. so far…….

[LaurentiuAnghel]

Ryan, don't you think that at 40:19 the biner of the red Totem should be clipped to the yellow sling instead of the thumb loop?

[ericman]

heyy. This content is truly amazing! Thank you foe that. I wanted to ask how thick the cortelete is. I know 6mm is 'minimum' amd most people use 7mm. What do you all use? 7mm feels so thin 😂. But i think 8 will be too much.

[Rorschach]

Ryan! What you've shown with equalizing cams by clipping them together (alpine equalization) is a good technique, but you show a critical error. I dont believe loading the thumb loop in the configuration you've shown should the bottom cam fail would hold (maybe it should you should test it). To my knowledge it is best to clip the sling or carabiner of the cam.

[phyton]

Sorry to be a wet blanket, and I don't know if all of Mark Hudon's material (static web pages and videos) is still available, but it's WAY more correct and efficient (simpler). Notably he likes just using rabbit-ear figure 8s and alpine butterfly knots instead of some type of anchor point rope or sling. PTPP's stuff is great too; maybe not so simple but very correct in details. The points in the intro text are spot on perfect, but my 2c is, anyone who isn't already conversant, in his or her sleep, with most of the basic anchor details that are talked here should do a few years of long trad climbs first and then think about walls. Speaking of which, definitely the best way to learn quick anchor setup is to do just that: a bunch of grade IV and V trad climbs with a hefty dose of non-bolt anchors. Long climbs are the ticket because time is at a premium and you get tired, so simplicity and consistency are super valuable to maintaining safe anchor construction. Specifically with anchors, cordelettes get really welded when used as wall anchors and are difficult to untie, even if you use a spacer biner in the knot. Webolettes are better but still problematic. Alpine butterfly is a great wall anchor knot and probably the easiest one to untie after being heavily weighted. Those horizontally clipped rope segments won't work well, if there's much clipped to them it just mashes all together and is not accessible. Either you need a bunch of clipped point to keep crap separated, or use a daisy chain with the various things clipped to the separate loops (as shown at about 33:10). And so on.

[andrewhunter]

What happens to equalisation if one piece blows in Ryan’s cascading anchor (sliding xs into quad)? The sliding x with be fine but will the final quad have all the load on one limit knot? Also what happens if you are pas’d in to the master point? I guess from the shock loading video that even with a static pas it will probably be ok?

[cameron-kbnm]

11:15 was that the sound of someone decking ?