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What No One Tells You About Climbing On Pockets (Pocket Injury)
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Context and Overview (00:00)
Part 1: Strong-but-Risky Pocket Technique (00:44)
Part 2: Safe-but-Weaker Pocket Technique (03:09)
Part 3: Alternative Pocket Techniques (03:57)
Part 4: Some Very Basic Training Advice for Pockets (05:02)
Outro and Bloopers (06:33)
// SHOW NOTES //
INTRODUCTION
Pockets are notorious for causing climbing injuries, especially in the lumbricals. But did you know that there are different ways to hold a pocket, and those ways affect how much force you can exert through your fingers and how likely you are to cause an injury? Did you know there are safe ways to train pockets to help reduce an injury? If you did know that, give yourself a crisp high five! If you didn’t know, you ‘bout to do some LEARNIN’.
In this video, we are going to go over what the strong and safe ways to hold a pocket would be, and how you can use this in your climbing to become a safer, smarter climber! We’ll also cover a bit of pocket training at the end, so you can be strong and safe.
PART 1: STRONG BUT RISKY POCKET TECHNIQUE
Before we actually learn what the “strong” pocket technique is, we need to understand this really cool thing called the “Quadriga Effect.”
Quadriga effect
The quadriga refers to the mechanical principle that the force production of our fingers (particularly the flexor digitorum profundus or FDP) is dependent on the development of simultaneous force through all 4 fingers. This is due to the fact that all 4 FDP tendons share a common muscle. Think about walking your 4 favorite doggos. If only 1 dog is pulling, you don’t feel much pull. You can handle it. But, if all 4 doggos see a tennis ball fly across the street and take off, welcome to your first flying lesson.
So, going back to our own bodies here, if you pull through all 4 fingers you can generate more force. If you are only pulling through 1 or 2 fingers, you will generate less force. Thus, bringing forward the strong but risky pocket technique.
Strong but risky Technique
Imagine you’re on the wall, channeling your inner Sharma, cranking on a 1 finger pocket -- basically a jug. You NEED to send, and screaming “PSSSAAATTT” hasn’t been enough. You need to generate more force, so you pull as hard as you can and while you do this all but one of your fingers curl into a fist. And you send!
So what just happened? Well, by flexing all your fingers into your palm while pulling through the extended single finger in the pocket, you got maximum activation of your FDP. You unlocked the Quadriga effect! This allowed you to generate more force through the single finger, allowing you to pull harder, which resulted in you sending your proj.
Pretty sweet, right? But wait, didn’t I say this was the “risky” technique? Indeed, because the story isn’t over.
You stand atop the climb, hallelujah. Rejoice! You feel so superior! In fact, you decide to throw shade to the haters and flip them the bird. But when you try, you experience an intense sensation of pain in the palm of your hand. You desperately want to throw said shade, but you just can’t do it, so you stand there like a shadeless loser.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
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