How To Top Rope Solo with only an ATC Guide

NOTE: IT IS UNSAFE TO USE A PRUSIK AS A BACK UP FOR THIS SYSTEM.

This is not a recommended use of the ATC Guide by the manufacturer and could be a controversial use of the device! As with all climbing, there is risk involved in this method, and the techniques shown in this video mitigates the likelihood of device failure as well as the consequenses of device failure. This technique should only be attempted by those who understand the risks of using the ATC Guide in this configuration. There are many other considerations and precautions one must take when using this method that ARE NOT mentioned in this video, so seek professional instruction before attempting.

[brainscrub]

Nice! So, the blue rope is around the tree, the white rope has a cam on one end, I couldn't tell where the other end goes. Since you're rapping and climbing on a single strand, why not equalize the blue rope with the white one a bit more instead of having a slack loop on it? Probably fine anyway, but three points sharing a load is better than two if it takes more or less the same amount of time to set up anyway.
I'd probably skip the prusik if I had the clove hitch, so that I only need to loosen it and pull the slack out, and the weight of the rope below will tighten it again.

[mateoc.]

Why not just use over hand slip knot. I feel like they would be much quicker and easier to undo if u rappel. Just make them extra big? Or are they not considered safe. 2 years later what do you think of using this system? I’m planning on using it for super short top rope with some pads as well

[michael]

Be very careful putting your fingers in the Clove hitch it can be pretty brutal in the event you fell at that moment best case scenario you’d probably break a finger

[ruitbier]

Nice. How do you rap back down if you have a bunch of butterfly knots tied?

[darkwhizzkido]

Would a Prussik suffice as back up rather than alpine butterfly?

[gsocias]

Do you have a how to rappel with atc guide on toprope solo mode??? How to lower yourself using this system?

[tomasarocchi]

Nice video! But what IF...

The prussik engages. It will pull on the "loose" side of the cord, wich will disengage the atc. THEN. The atc slides down to the prussik and disengages it... And you're down...

I think that you should present this method as a backup system that you can use if you've lost all your TRS equipment and have to climb back up the wall...

Climb safe, cheers! 🧗

[TarikVann]

Are you aware of how the angles of your anchor affect load distribution?
I'd be happy to explain why your anchor may have been more dangerous than simply tying it off the tree.

[christophh]

Might be worth noting if you were to use the butterfly knots and acually have the atc fail and fall 5-10 feet and shock load your static rope, your anchor, back or rope would probably break.

Edit: you can buy a pair of ascenders for less then 100 usd and the teeth wearing out your rope is a myth. Pulling it up at the end of the climb will wear it more. 100 dollars for something that can save your life is really not much

[versusgravity]

Just an observation. The rappel uses a backup prusik attached to the leg loop. This technique has been proven unsafe. The recommended rappel back up is by extending the rappel device and attaching the prusik to the belay loop.

Also because the rope doesn't move in a TR solo, it can saw on edges. Amazon has cheap rope protectors that Velcro around the rope at any point to add abrasion protection.

I lead solo on rock and ice (with a Wren Soloist) and have TR soloed for decades. One golden rule is be aware how little help might be around you should you have an accident. Be extra cautions in all safety relate decisions. Have fun!

[WilliamsSkilliams]

Hey man first off good on you for getting out there and wanting to share with people.

BUT...

I really think you should take this video down.
A. This is a horrible way to Tr solo
B. It seems like you don’t even understand how unsafe this method is or even know how to use it. (it might be fine for 5.2 like the route in the video) but try climbing anything where you can’t take both hands off at any point and you’ll see how quickly this system fails
C. Some who doesn’t know anything about systems but got the climbing pack from REI is going to go try this at their cliff and F-it up

Idk how long you have been climbing and I hope you’ve never had to deal with it and never will but when I say F-it up I mean sometimes climbers don’t always come home.

[Centrodemasa]

I think is really bad idea....you can use a better gear to top rope