How to Replace Oil Pressure Sender 09-14 Chevy Suburban 1500

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In the video, 1A Auto shows how to replace a broken or faulty oil pressure sender. The video is applicable to the 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, Chevy Suburban.

This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2007 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2008 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2009 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2010 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2011 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2012 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2013 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
2014 Chevrolet Suburban 1500

🔧 List of tools used:
• 1-1/16 Inch Wrench

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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*

AAuto
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I had to change the oil pressure sensor on my DIL Chevy Suburban. I was not accessible without removing the intake manifold. There simply wasn't enough room to get my hand or a wrench back there due to a shield (which I can't figure out what the purpose of it was). I used your video as a reference and it was spot on. I really appreciated being able to watch this and refer back to it. Thank you so much. P.S. I am a woman who, although not a mechanic, I do know my way around cars but this really helped me.

JustMe-cgxd
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One should know that I watched quite a few YouTube videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender.

Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one).

So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on.

I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!!

So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me.

Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic, and promised to take care of me tonight....

thecuss
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I just did mine on my 07 suburban and did not need to take off anything but the plastic cover on top. Hardest part was getting the little screen out. Took me about half hour. Just gotta be good with your hands if your not then don’t try it. Do it like this guy 👍.

tonyanbrando
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I tried the “shortcut” method posted elsewhere. I could not remove the connector as it was on the far side. I could raise the lock but I could not push the release. Worked at it for a couple of hours. My arm is still very sore four days later. Anyway, I followed your step by step slow and steady. Piece of cake.

Dcslemley
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Just followed this video step by step for my 2011 gmc sierra 1500 5.3. Fixed my p0523 code with no oil pressure reading. Now it is running with no issues. Thanks for the great video! Saved me a good amount of money to do it myself.

mattstith
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Awesome video. You demystify the removal of the intake manifold and make it look easy. For the life of me I can see no reason for the plastic shield that is installed at the back of the manifold other than to make it almost impossible to reach the oil pressure sensor. If it's purpose is to stop oil from spraying on the manifold in event of a catastrophic failure of the oil pressure sensor, it's not worth it. That would be a rare event and not a big issue even if it occurred in terms of mess.

nachoman
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Great video. I followed it step by step and was able to replace the oil pressure sensor and filter. The only thing I did different was that I took out the alternator also to make it easier to pull off the intake. Maybe this was due to the engine in my Escalade being a 6.2L. Anyways, thanks again for making this video.

turbojay
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One guy on YouTube only removed 2 lines and replaced the part and put a new one in with one hand while holding his phone in the other hand in 12 minutes lol

bobodonemilking
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Thank you for the detailed installation instructions. I am going to attempt to replace the Oil pressure sender tomorrow with confidence due to your instruction.

danmyers
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I know you said you don't have to take all that off to do this job just wanted to say I can appreciate this video showing what it actually looks like replacing it thanks a bunch 😊

youngpoethunnies
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I did this last night to my mothers car .it took me about 30 minutes after I got everything set up .I didn't have to go thru all of this I just reach behind the intake and changed it .

brucejohnson
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just want to say thank you for this video, I have seen others video that show you how to do replace it by doing a short cut, I disabled the hole thing I you show it I nt the video and its took me 5 hours for doing the first time and by doing it I noticed a couple of other issues that I put on the list to fix it me self, once again than you !

alcafona
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Absolutely the best video of this proceedure on youtube and the internet, THANK YOU.

robertschroeck
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Excellent video! Clearly showed how connectors were released etc. for a DIYer.

gswtooch
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I fixed the car thanks to your video only cost me $5.50 I appreciate it

holdenoneupboss
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Even though many get by without taking off the intake, your video gave much better views of how to disconnect the sensor and how to remove the screen. Thank you! Does anybody know which models have the screen, when it was introduced? The manual on my 2000 Suburban makes no mention of a screen....

spelunkerd
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The 5.3L is fairly easy to get to without taking off the intake. It's a challenge on the 6.2L though. What I like to do is unbolt the rear transmission mount. Jack the trans tail up with a block of wood. That tilts the engine away from the firewall about 3 inches. Gives you alot more room to work. a 5/16 -18 bolt that is 4 inches long threads right into the screen and helps you pull it right up.

atxjax
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You guys are awesome, saved me a lot of hassle.thanks again

EdCharles-nmkg
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Thanks for this video! it was very helpful and well explained when I replaced my Oil Pressure sensor last week.

antoniodejesus