Save Your Rusty Table Saw!

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In this video I show you can easily fix up a rusty table saw, even if you mess it up yourself by accident! I accidentally left a piece of Pink insulation foam on my tablesaw and it had some moisture on it... not a great move. WD-40 to the rescue!
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WD-40 Multi Use Formula with Smart Straw

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→ Bosch Miter Saw ( My Favorite miter saw)

→ Sawstop Table Saw:

→ Wen Tabletop Metalcutting Bandsaw

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→ Bosch Portable Bandsaw ( 18V)

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Another extra 2 steps taught to me in the ship yards. After cleaning or on a brand new machine with exposed metal surfaces. Step 1. Us a Map Gas torch to remove the natural water from inside the metal sub strait. ((A Preheat)) Step 2. Than apply the wax or rust preventive while the metal is still hot so it melts and soaks deep into the metals crystalline sub strait. Filling the voids.⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐Perfect step to use on machines using coolant. Mills, Laths, CNC's machines - etc. etc. etc. etc.

kaydog
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To protect your MDF outfeed table from further damage, consider laying down a couple coats of shellac. Then put a coat of wax over that. The shellac dries pretty dark so it will cover a lot of the stains on there now. The wax will reduce friction when you rip long boards too.

bigredracingdog
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really well done video. very informative and to the point. not dragged out with boring bloat so many do. thank you.

GordyAgen
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One of the few real working shops on YT. The background isn’t staged.

partsdave
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Good tip on cleaning rust off a table saw. Thank you for sharing this video.

tedtolentino
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I used fine beach sand and light motor oil to clean my saw tabletop. Lightly oil the top and spread oil evenly and sprinkle on the sand. I then took a piece of Low Carbon steel, about 6" square and scoured the saw table in a figure eight motion, rotating the piece of steel by 90 degrees each few strokes. Overlap the table edge with the lapping plate to keep table flat and not make i the tabletop concave. Works great. Just a thought. Try using the machined bottom of a Cast Iron or Aluminum Frying Pan.

kenlively
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Good job. Problem is, it is only temporary. A better solution ls to use Evaporust not oil. Evaporust is nontoxic and no scrubbing.
Then you get a Nickel plating kit and you can litterly rub (lightly) on the Nickel with a cloth and a 12v battery.
Two to Three coats required.
It will never rust again.
Other options are to laminate the top with Formica or 30Ag stainless steel sheet.

mrgcav
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I cover my tablesaw with a canvas cover from an old futon whenever it isn't being used. It's about 4 layers thick and it keeps any moisture from getting to the cast iron top. The saw is 18 years old and the top still looks brand new.

jefflee
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Good advice. I’ve done this on my old Craftsman and it really helped.

davebauerart
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I had a rusty bandsaw, put some penetrating oil on it (a very liberal amount), then I started hitting it with a wire brush. It took like 2 hours of not much happening before I gave up, then I put some plastic over it to cover it. I came back the next morning expecting it to need another couple hours, but nope I was able to just wipe all of the rest of the rust off with a shop towel. I recommend leaving the oil on for a longer time if you’re having difficulty getting the rust off

finnancahill
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Thank you for showing the right way of doing that I have used WD-40 on table Rush before but never thought about using the wax to keep it off thank you for telling me that or showing also curiosity question what do you use for a degreaser ?? thanks much this is John saying goodbye and thanks for your video

johnsmccullough
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Thanks I needed that information. I have a vintage /anquie (1980's) B&D table saw that I use. Some day I need to restore it.

doylerabjohn
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Cast iron most of the time cleans up if it’s fresh- love your videos!!!

breezybmetal
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Thanks for the video and advice. I'm on the hunt for a used belt driven table saw and most of them (all of them) have rusted cast iron. This will be my chosen method of cleaning my new-to-me table saw. Thank you again from a newbie! 🙂👍

BarkingBeavers
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Thank you, this was very helpful. Would you ever use a wire wheel cup to remove heavier rust on a table saw top?

toxicgreen
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I once discovered my cat had decided my cast iron table top was the perfect spot for him to lay in the sun during the winter. When I got around to using the saw again, any flat surface becomes a table to store things try not to let it happen, I discovered a perfect little cat shaped rust spot on my table. So, I had to do the same thing you did here. It takes some work but looks great afterwards.

ohhpaul
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I use past wax on my stored saw blades when I put them up I use fine steep wool to apply it making Shure they are clean and wipe them with a paper towel works great

billhatcher
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@Make Everything Try this next time....
1. Dry scrape with a razor blade on a long handle, move with the grain of the surface grind.
Change blades often, and avoid running over the table edges, miter slots or throat until the end because doing so will burr the edge of the blade.
2. Apply WD40 as a lubricant, specialist rust release if you have it, then use an orbital sander (better) or burnisher/polisher (best) and graduate from green to maroon to grey scotch brite pads or wheels. Move with the grind of the table.
3. Clean between passes with a rag and reapply WD40 as needed.
4. Remove tough stains (like the ever-present beer can ring) with Boeshield Rust and Stain Remover.
5. Wipe surface with mineral spirits.
6. Take one final pass dry, light pressure, with the grey scotch brite to give it a final shine.
7. Wipe surface with mineral spirits. Gently heat surface with a propane or map gas torch.
8. Apply crystalline paste wax from Rennaissance, Johnson's paste wax or Boeshield T9 spray to make the surface slick and provide some rust protection. Reapply depending on how often you use the table saw, jointer, planer, band saw, etc... For heavily used machines, I apply a light wax 1 time a month.

The process, start-to-finish as described, takes under 30 minutes to remove surface rust in far worse condition than shown in your video. I restore several wood and metal working machines a year for the last 25 years. My process has only improved by adding a burnisher/polisher and scotch brite wheels and Boeshield rust and stain remover to my process. It's fast, and it works well for light maintenance or heavily rusted restoration projects on any cast iron surface, big or small.

timl
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This is great. Unfortunately I got into the habit of treating the table and vice on both of my mills with WD40 after each use. I have left the tools alone for a few months in my unheated shop. I noticed last week that I had rust blooms on both machines. The protection offered by WD40 does not last that long. Wax or a proper rust preventative oil is required after WD40. My table saw, planer and jointer are still quite good after regular (if not often) application of paste wax. Minor discolouration but nothing serious after a couple of decades. The WD on the metal tools was a killer.

brianpage
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Sawstop recommends that you use the gray scotch brite pads. I think they are less coarse so they will take some more work to remove so much rust but you get a better shine from them so you don't have to use fine grit sandpaper.

cameronburry