THE COST OF CHOOSING BIGGER 4x4 TYRES

The Real COST of BIGGER Tyres

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[KiwiPokerPlayer]

Wow, the production quality going into these videos in getting insane. Nice work Ronny (and everyone behind the scenes). And as always, top notch advice. I run 31.5 Ko2s on my daily for all the reasons you mentioned. No extra costs, no headaches or reliability issues, and they still work off road when I need them to. Just switching the stock road tyres to decent A/Ts makes a world of difference without changing anything else.

[jpjerome]

Still very much enjoy and look forward to your next video. I started watching you 8 years ago, figured it was cheaper watching you than actually do it, well turns out you gave me the bug for off road! héhé! Bought a 2016 4x4 gmc canyon (1/4 ton) 2, 8 diesel took me 2.5 years to desired state, 3'' lift and suspension upgrade, 33'' mud tires, steel back and front bumpers and completely boxed frame with skid plates and 15500lbs winch, aluminium cab that i made all the electrical set up (isolator, 2nd battery, distribution...) it was a way of life for 5 years until I got crank bearing issue, started a year and a half nightmare ended up loosing lots of $$$ now its behind me but do not regret the incredible experience it was and these amazing places we visited that would not have been accessible otherwise, cheers Ronnie!🍻

[hodgoes]

Went from 29.6 to 31.6 inch tyres on my 2010 dmax.

After adjusting for the tyre size in the fuel calculations. I use around 0.2 to 0.5L /100km more.

So well and truly worth it.

Also fit with no lift of trimming required.

[fm]

Ronny, from the other side of the planet - I admire and appreciate your well presented information. All the best from Tennessee, USA.

[Peter-PB]

Fitting larger tyres, especially 35’s will also reduce braking performance - so brake upgrades are, in my opinion, also required

[sinaalex]

Not bad. Your video is pretty much the best, to explain the problems about changing the tyre size. Even I can understand it. 😊 My "BAIC BJ40 Rainforest Edition" (IFS) has 285/70-17 tires from the factory. That´s according to my tyre calculator a "33x11.22x17" tyre. Now I a running some Toyo-M/T tires. According to your conclusion (16:54") a 32" tyre is good enough for almost anything, and with 33" from the factory I´m already a bit higher than that. I have only changed the gear ratio from 3, 45 to 3, 88, and a "tuning box" to get a bit better acceleration. After watching your video I completely erased the slightest idea of changing the tyre size. With about 13-18 L/100 km the consumption is already tough enough.
Thanks a lot for this detailed clarification about tires. To be honest, I like the tough look of some 35 or 37 tires, but for me it´s not worth all the money and the work.
For years I already watch your videos and you gave a lot of good advice for some mods NOT to do with my car. Kepp on with your Hollywood-production videos. They are great.

[RoamingRooma]

Legend. Thanks mate. 33inch tyre with 2 inch lift on solid axle all the way

[ShannonHartnett-]

Honestly im abit old school i prefer the 33s on a 2" lift its definitely the sweet spot.

[unna]

265/70/R17 Maxxis Razor AT, P12 rims, 40 mm lift, airbag man also fitted to my 2023 fortuner gxl . The car went some of the places that i though no way we could get theres . Towing camper nearly 2 tons to get to off grid was abit nervous but we got there. That just show do you really need big massive tyres .

[michaelcorker]

Built a 2022 Prado VX with a Lovells GVM upgrade @ 40mm. Considered 285/70/17s, but problematic (?). Advice was to go 18" rims with a lower ratio rather than drop a tyre size on 17s and end up with some obscure tyre spec that would be difficult to source - so based choice on 18s for tyre availability. Aimed for 285/65/18s (ROHs -12mm offset was a minimal change from OEM) but no go. Settled for 285/60/18s but that still required 30mm removed from panel under TJM bull bar to relieve space/mitigate rubbing at full lock. Probably need to sort out mud guards too (in time). UCAs centred well enough for now.
Uptake of all this: 31.6"/803mm tyres not quite where I'd wish to be and probably at minimum sidewall, but setup has proved to be perfectly fine and fuel economy good. Learned a lot and if had time again would get the build, rims and tyres at one spot with a Prado specialist that understood all the codependent elements better. At the time my advice was "siloed" and I was a bit naïve despite researching.

[chrisfanchier]

Wil my experience I find that 32 and 33 inch tires tend to be the preferred rand for many vehicles when it comes down to Touring and most 4WD situations. Pair that with the right suspension and you are pretty much set. Even some vehicles like.my 1993 WD21 have no problems doing most things with Factory 31's. I guess it really comes down to what you do and what you need for what to get.

[SeasonAscent]

I've recently put on 275/70r17s (true 32) on my n80 and I reckon that's the limit for me. I've had to do some light trimming to the mud guards and that's it. I can easily see how a 33 would require so much more work. The larger you go, the more exponential the hassle is.
My 32s are a sweet spot and often get mistaken for 33s too!

[thedownwardmachine]

A lot of us men (yes, men) need a giant project to get us away from our families and soak up our excess time before we wind up in the old folks home

[WheelingSA]

Wow! This is a well put together and informative video. Well done and thanks!

[darwinsdrongodrivers]

Maxxis Razr AT 235/85r16 on ROH Steel Rims are the perfect combination for me and my 78 series

[sean]

Awesome video once again mate.
My personal experience: GU Patrol coil cab, standard suspension handled 33 inch tyres with no rubbing noticed, 2 inch lift handled 35 inch tyres with minimal rubbing: this seemed to be the sweet spot, just springs and shocks upgraded.
I've now gone to a 3-inch lift and softer rates to try and increase flex, but got lots of rubbing in the guards when flexing fully loaded.
It's since escalated into a large list of suspension mods to make it all work.
Coils seem tricky to get right if you want good flex at low speed and bottoming resistance at high speed when touring/fully loaded.

[curtisjones]

Hey buddy. I dropped a 2.5" lift into my LN106 'lux a couple of years ago as the very old 2" lift had sagged (and broken, as it turned out when I pulled the rear springs out) it's way back to stock. Stock tyres on them things were 29" outta the dealership. I had 31" boots on it then and after the lift it looked (to me at the time) a little silly. So I rocked down to my local tyre guy - Bridgestone Kalgoorlie for the win - we looked at it a bit, I wanted big tyres, he's like you won't like it, I'm like nah yeah cocko, he shrugs and rounded up some worn out 35", got them on rims, mounted them on my bus and I went for a wander out bush for half a day.

They were great offroad, fantastic even, and I had no issues at all with scrubbing or rubbing. That lift included a tailshaft spacer, extended brake lines, no need for a drop steering arm, I have full articulation all corners, good kit. Thing was on the highway they were, as expected, absolute shit. The LN106 don't make a lot of power to start with and these things were just sucking it out. Deflated for sandy stuff - even worse.

So back to the shop, he said told ya so cocko, yeah righto, some umming and ahhing, I rolled out of there with a set of Maxxis RAZR 265/75R16 MT772M's - 33" - as a kinda compromise. Same deal, great tyre and an effective total lift of 4.5 inches. And they have been a fantastic tyre - bloody awesome in fact - so long as you are not driving on the road. On the road, 10l/100km or worse when the rig is loaded up, squirrelly and being so much bigger, takes a lot of middle pedal to pull it up from speed.

Just because it can, does not mean you should. I'll drive these current tyres down to the plys like any good ole goldfielder, then flick 'em for some 31 inch tyres. I'll end up at 3.5" total lift - meh, big deal - and consumption and power back where it used to be, which was much better than this.

Nah, no turbo. The only better way to wreck a 3L motor is to drop all the oil out of it.

[greghajdu]

My manual px2 ranger was not as good to drive once I put on 33’s with new rims so I got the front and rear diffs from an auto ranger and that got it back close to stock gearing, pretty good! However, while I had that new rear axle out I couldn’t help but put on rear disc brakes and, because I had a rear axle from a px3 ranger, I had to get a patch cable to get the factory rear locker to work, all good still. While I was changing that front diff I couldn’t live without an elocker in there and that got me to a new switch panel in the interior, nice! Of course I couldn’t have it without a 2/12 inch lift and that really works best with adjustable upper control arms and while I was in there I thought why not do some nice super pro lower control arms and then you really need a wheel alignment from somewhere that understands how to set up those adjustable upper control arms . I felt like it would be wrong not to give the front brakes some love so upgraded rotors and pads went in too. Those stock brake lines looked suspiciously short now, so some longer stainless braided ones were best front and rear. And then I couldn’t help but install a diff drop, weld in (because they’re meant to be better on a ranger) and the aluminium bash plate over the front diff did need modification too 😂. Those 33 inch muddies were sticking out well past the guards so on went some good looking flares that definitely look better still with raptor coat tinted to the colour of the front grill on a wild track. Oh, I haven’t done the speedo correction yet….it’s close enough 😊

[OnCountryWithMick]

And all these points sit to explain why I still run the stock size tyres on my 02 Pajero. I do have a 40mm lift so could go from 265/70/16 (30.6inch) to 33's without any other mods (as far as I am aware) but it is more wear and strain on my drive line, more fuel and in my opion not worth worrying about. I'm not out to rock crawl anyway so clearance generally is not an issue. I've had so many people tell me to go bigger but I don't feel the need. 33's in NSW with the 40mm lift is also the maximum legal without major mods requiring engineering. That would give me 2 inch suspension & 1 inch tyre lift matching the maximum 3 inch lift.

[cjaussienerfer]

That’s a lot of solid information there mate. It plays a lot into your vehicle much more than others think it’s does. The other issue you have to consider (different per state) is GVM. Yep bigger tyres robs you of your gvm the bigger you go, especially if you need to carry more fuel or a rear bar to carry that spare wheel on your wagon.

As obvious with my profile picture I own a ‘16 duel cab ranger, ideally it’s my jack-all-trades vehicle. It’s my daily, it’s my weekender, it’s my tourer, it’s my dream rig. I’m building mine up to 275/70/17 or 32.2” tyres with 2” lift, diff drop, new UCA and a GVM upgrade to have a rear bar and 122L tank. A bit much just to go that size but being its usage I can mildly justify it. However I can’t exactly justify cheaping out my camping gear on Kings drawers 😅